Rear subframe bushing help

[Info@PeddersUSA.com]

Originally Posted by oachalon

Radz i am in the exact same position as you. I am getting an edelbrock supercharger and i figure as soon as i get it installed, i am going to see some downfalls of the stock bushings and suspension. I do not plan on taking my car to a track (might still do it though), or do serious racing, but when i punch the gas i want to make sure its solid, no wheel hop, and nothing that will cause the car to want to go out of control.

Im down to the pedders EP1201 and the pfadt one. I would like to fix any problems caused by the stock bushings but keep NVH as stock as possible. I love the look and machining done on the Pfadt one, but i just cant see how a solid mount will not increase noise dramatically.

Also im worried about going to a hard urethane or solid bushing because at some point the bushing is going to move, and since the bushing will be made of a hard material wont that potentially wear the subframe? The factory bushings are soft so during any movement the bushing will give before the subframe.

Please correct me if im wrong, but in my eyes if i put a hard material (steel, aluminum, urethane, etc) and the subframe moves and twists and things rub together (probably likely) its not going to start to wear the subframe?

I will be in Ohio on May 22nd. for a killer Pedders Day at:

Back Street Performance
650 W, Smith Road, unit 2
Medina, OH 44256
Rich Johnson
(440) 655-7677
rich@backstreetper.com

We will be offering Pedders Days discount. We should have some of these to show you. You will have 0 wear of the subframe with any of our poly bushings!!

So if you are thinking of the EP1201 bushings, you will save a very serious amount of money compared to the other metal units.

Will you be able to come?

mike
dms

[IPS Brandon]

Originally Posted by oachalon

Radz i am in the exact same position as you. I am getting an edelbrock supercharger and i figure as soon as i get it installed, i am going to see some downfalls of the stock bushings and suspension. I do not plan on taking my car to a track (might still do it though), or do serious racing, but when i punch the gas i want to make sure its solid, no wheel hop, and nothing that will cause the car to want to go out of control.

Im down to the pedders EP1201 and the pfadt one. I would like to fix any problems caused by the stock bushings but keep NVH as stock as possible. I love the look and machining done on the Pfadt one, but i just cant see how a solid mount will not increase noise dramatically.

Also im worried about going to a hard urethane or solid bushing because at some point the bushing is going to move, and since the bushing will be made of a hard material wont that potentially wear the subframe? The factory bushings are soft so during any movement the bushing will give before the subframe.

Please correct me if im wrong, but in my eyes if i put a hard material (steel, aluminum, urethane, etc) and the subframe moves and twists and things rub together (probably likely) its not going to start to wear the subframe?

Well you are in our area , we are in Columbus, and have all Pfadt's product line on hand, and installed on our demo car. Come down, and we can show you the material, drive the car, feel the difference ect. And you can also check out our dyno facility, fabrication area ect. I will make you a very friendly local deal as well.

As for the concern about tolerance in the sub frame after say a hard bushing install like pfadts, there will be no material issues with vibration or wear. The idea is to fix the rear cradle so it wont twist and shake now, which will move the energy to the wheels versus the deflection in the sub frame bushings. You will have no concern with the pfadt bushings stretching or twisting vibrating, they will last in 100% performance longer then your engine .


Hope you can stop down.

Regards

[oachalon]

I am interested in both of your offers:

Mike, your venue is pretty close to me (about 50 miles) but May 22nd is my brothers wedding.

Brandon, columbus is a little more of a drive (im 25 miles east of cleveland), but i might have to be down there soon for work, so maybe i will stop by.

Also supporting local companies is a big thing for me, be it the retailer or the manufacturer. Plus ohio needs it as much as possible.

[IPS Brandon]

Originally Posted by oachalon

I am interested in both of your offers:

Mike, your venue is pretty close to me (about 50 miles) but May 22nd is my brothers wedding.

Brandon, columbus is a little more of a drive (im 25 miles east of cleveland), but i might have to be down there soon for work, so maybe i will stop by.

Also supporting local companies is a big thing for me, be it the retailer or the manufacturer. Plus ohio needs it as much as possible.

Well, if your wait for about a month you can come by our open house event we are planning for the launch of our new 30,000 sq ft building

Hope we can cross paths soon.

[K's Speed & Sound]

Originally Posted by Info@PeddersUSA.com

I see you need some help with a little body role. LOL

I have done quite a few complete subframe bushings. They are acutally pretty easy.

Check this link and you can actually see the tool that I use.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76732

Using the tool takes about 2-3 minutes a bushing.

But it can be donw without our special Pedders tool, and without removing the subframe.

1. You will have to lower the subframe about 6 inches, remove the black metal covers on each of the subframes. They are tight and will require significant prying off.

2. Drill a large hole thru the rubber

3. With a reciprical saw, core the rubber out of the bushing

4. CAREFULLY cut a 1 inch strip of the outer fiberglass jacket out and then cut another slice 180 degrees. SPECIAL PRECAUTION. USE EXTREME CARE NOT TO CUT INTO THE SUBFRAME EYELET. IF YOU DO CUT INTO IT, MAKE SURE YOU SAND OUT THE SHARP EDGES. POLY DOES NOT LIKE SHARP EDGES


5. At least for our Pedders complete bushings, EP1201 and EP1201HD, we want toe eyelets very clean. The OE units use a blue glue or sealer of some kind that must be removed from the eyelets so our poly bushing is
tight up against the metal eyelets.

6. Install the bushings and raise the subframe back into the body, with care aligning the rear pins to the bushings.

Please note the bolts are seriously tight on the rear subframe and is important to torque them correctly


Does this help?

thanks
mike
dms

You guys are a life saver. I do mobile work and this helped ALOT. Hince why I will be in contact soon.

[olblue75]

It's a old thread don't think Pedders is out of business in the states but PFADT went to AFE.