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Old 05-13-2018, 01:22 PM   #29
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Fun story- I did the gravity bleed and the pedal came back. Pumped the pedal a bunch, cracked the bleeder and retightened, pumped some more and it got much better after a few cycles. Still going to see about getting at least the slave, bearing support and remote bleeder installed.
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:02 PM   #30
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Glad it worked out for you! If you're having those installed just installed the clutch at the same time. It'll cost the same
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Old 05-13-2018, 10:27 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by terry_b View Post
So I was doing this wrong... I was bleeding the way you would for brake calipers:

1) crack bleeder
2) push on pedal
3) close bleeder
4) return pedal to top (it was still sticking at the floor)

I did that for around 3-4 reservoir top offs but the pedal never returned to normal. It stayed close to the floor the whole time. Before attempting to bleed, I had just enough travel to still put the car in gear and it was drivable - now it won't even go into gear.

I don't know if that's because I didn't bleed it right or maybe the slave is going bad?

This is an improper method for bleeding anything. This makes sense why you had issues, you were letting air in the system. After bleeding hundreds of brakes and other hydraulic systems I have found the following method to work 100% of the time.

1. Apply pressure.
2. Crack open bleeder.
3. Close bleeder before fluid flow stops.
4. Return pedal to top if necessary.
5. Check resevoir and top of if needed.

Repeat as necessary to get clean fluid through the system and or several bleed cycles AFTER the last air bubble comes out.

I'm glad your car is happy again.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWOFORTYZ View Post
1. Apply pressure.
2. Crack open bleeder.
3. Close bleeder before fluid flow stops.
4. Return pedal to top if necessary.
5. Check resevoir and top of if needed.

Repeat as necessary to get clean fluid through the system and or several bleed cycles AFTER the last air bubble comes out.
This was basically what I was going for. It was tough to do with 2 people.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:55 PM   #33
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So I had my shop put in the clutch from Monster. Initial impressions are really good. The pedal feels sooooo much better in general. I also had a Tick remote bleeder and the billet bearing support installed.

I still don't exactly know what the issue was, because everything that came off the car looked pretty good. Even my mechanic was stumped what would kill the pedal like that just out of the blue - no heat, no fluid loss, just a dead pedal. If I have anymore issues, I'll replace the master first to see if that's the issue.

Here are the old clutch pics:









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Old 05-17-2018, 08:49 PM   #34
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Could have been weak springs. The stock clutch sucks!
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Old 05-23-2018, 07:12 AM   #35
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After driving the car a couple hundred miles now, the monster springs seem to much better than the GM clutch springs, so that makes sense. The pedal feel is very linear now and feels like the spring is so much snappier than the stock clutch was. Makes shifting the 1LE transmission feel magical!

My only concern so far is that it's a bit louder, which I've read is normal for multi-disc clutches and it has a bit more vibration right when the clutch engages.

I think it's normal as well, but when the car lugs a little, like if I'm in traffic and I don't downshift, there is a louder sound. Everything I've read online, for several different cars, says that this is just the exhaust pressure changing and making more noise. Since they stopped the exhaust system it just seems like than before.
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:06 PM   #36
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Just thought I'd update this if anyone was curious to follow up.

The original issue came back!!!! Clutch pedal wasn't returning properly and at times I had to pull it up with my foot. Clearly a hydraulic issue, even though I kept hearing and thinking that it was just the GM clutch. I ended up spending $50 at Advance for a nicer version of the Mityvac vacuum bleeder and bled a large bottle of fluid through the system. At first it was moving fluid, but not helping the pedal feel. Then I started pumping the pedal like 30 times between each bleed and ended up with a BUNCH of air bubbles. I got bubbles 2-3 times and then just fluid. Clutch pedal is back to normal now, 100%.

So likely, I have an issue with the master, or the machine the shop uses (which uses both positive pressure and vacuum) is introducing air into the system. I more or less paid almost $3k to install a remote bleeder at this point.... I'm trying not to be mad at myself, but I definitely didn't NEED a whole new clutch...
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:33 PM   #37
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I did the job, by myself. In my garage with a floor jack, jack stands and basic tools. Takes time, but not that bad...
Is there a bolt at the top just under intake in the back? Thinking of doing clutch myself. Just wondering how to get to it. If there is.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:26 PM   #38
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Is there a bolt at the top just under intake in the back? Thinking of doing clutch myself. Just wondering how to get to it. If there is.
Yes. Best way to get that one is with a ratcheting wrench from the top.
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Old 10-22-2018, 02:23 PM   #39
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Yes. Best way to get that one is with a ratcheting wrench from the top.
Can you remove the tranny crossmember and lower the engine/trans in the rear to gain access from underneath with a long extension? I'm asking because I will be doing a clutch in a couple of weeks.
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Old 10-22-2018, 03:10 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by zlathim View Post
Can you remove the tranny crossmember and lower the engine/trans in the rear to gain access from underneath with a long extension? I'm asking because I will be doing a clutch in a couple of weeks.
You can but that is a whole lot harder. If you go out to your car. Reach your hand behind the intake manifold down the back of the engine. You will feel the top bolt. A flex head ratcheting wrench is the easiest way to get it.
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:57 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry_b View Post
Just thought I'd update this if anyone was curious to follow up.

The original issue came back!!!! Clutch pedal wasn't returning properly and at times I had to pull it up with my foot. Clearly a hydraulic issue, even though I kept hearing and thinking that it was just the GM clutch. I ended up spending $50 at Advance for a nicer version of the Mityvac vacuum bleeder and bled a large bottle of fluid through the system. At first it was moving fluid, but not helping the pedal feel. Then I started pumping the pedal like 30 times between each bleed and ended up with a BUNCH of air bubbles. I got bubbles 2-3 times and then just fluid. Clutch pedal is back to normal now, 100%.

So likely, I have an issue with the master, or the machine the shop uses (which uses both positive pressure and vacuum) is introducing air into the system. I more or less paid almost $3k to install a remote bleeder at this point.... I'm trying not to be mad at myself, but I definitely didn't NEED a whole new clutch...
Glad you have it upgraded and bleedable!
i have had the same slow pedal return and mityvac'ed out my fluid and added the motul high temp.
I will need to pump the heck out of it and do it again as I had one soft pedal since the change, same first hard launch of the day timing lately
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Old 11-02-2018, 12:56 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by mmaattppllaayy View Post
You can but that is a whole lot harder. If you go out to your car. Reach your hand behind the intake manifold down the back of the engine. You will feel the top bolt. A flex head ratcheting wrench is the easiest way to get it.
Thanks for the info. I'm still trying to find the time to get this done.
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