6spd shift points at the track

[sschevybear11]

You can drive it any way you like down the track but if you can't 60' the car it won't matter.

[6spdLs3]

Yep, that's why I picked up some nitto 305 DR's over the winter and will add the pfadt bars when it warms up a bit. I've been bracket racing my 11.50 87 Buick turbo T for some time and I know how important the first 60ft are to ET

[blufin]

Originally Posted by sschevybear11

You can drive it any way you like down the track but if you can't 60' the car it won't matter.

[UltrasonicKing]

I'm confused on the meaning of power shifting, what is it exactly?

[HumanWiki]

Originally Posted by UltrasonicKing

I'm confused on the meaning of power shifting, what is it exactly?

WOT Shifting... Meaning, once you get the accelerator buried, it stays there throughout the whole run. Only thing you do is operate the clutch during shifts.

[Cincy10SSRS]

Originally Posted by Russell James

Slicks or a sticky drag radial will actual reduce the chance of breaking drivetrain parts.... D/S, diff, axles... It's the wheel hop that breaks all that stuff, and street tires that bounce like basketballs are what is a main contributor to wheel hop. And shifting too hard, on street tires will wheel hop like crazy on that 1-2 if speed shifted.

Too much slipping of the clutch is going to fry it. Forget about high RPM launches and speed shifting. It's not a dragster.

Get some better suspension pieces, some drag radials... then practice the launches and shifts rolling or squeezing into the throttle.

Find the sweet spot for launching that combo at that track, probably somewhere between 2200 - 2500. Quick clutch release, but not dumped and not slipped. Then quickly squeeze in to the throttle to WOT. If it hops or slips the tires, you slammed the throttle open too quick. If it bogs, try a few hundred RPM higher. Same thing on the shifts, throttle lift... fan the clutch, shift, and quickly squeeze back into WOT, again shooting for no tire slip or hop. Run up each gear right to within 100/200 of redline, so shoot for shifting at 6000ish.

You won't set any Super Stock records taking it easy on the clutch like that, but is that really your goal? Or would you like to drive the car home instead of flat bedding it?

High rpm slipping the clutch out of the hole and speed shifting will give a bit quicker ET... but is murder on the drivetrain bits. I'd rather run a couple tenths slower all night long than tear the car up. To me a 13.3 can be just as fun a day at the track vs a 13.0 and a tore up car.

I've had this car a month and love it but hadn't driven a stick in decades (yeah, I'm semi-old) and I'll admit I'm still getting used to it. I don't know when I will ever get to the track but I will also admit that I'm stoopid when it comes to all these terms being used in reference to optimal use of the clutch and shifting: quick release, dumping, slipping, fanning, power shifting, etc. What is the difference between all of them in technique and results?

[6spdLs3]

When I'm powershifting I'm fully pressing on the clutch and shifting in one motion without lifting the gas pedal.

On your new car I would recommend driving it normal for at least 1000 miles and avoid any fast shifting at all when the trans is cold or it will grind.

Honestly, I feel more damage is done to these transmissions during cold shifting than anything else.

Also, I would swap out the stock shifter right away, so you don't get used to its vague feel. I'm using a Barton shifter and am very happy with it.