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Old 06-16-2017, 06:42 AM   #15
BFASTNOTLAST

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drillteamleader View Post
I started to get that feeling when he told me my ported throttle body might be causing all the problems. Ordered a new tb and nothing changed! Im calling speed inc in the morning, right after i call this guy and see if he is going to buyhis tuner back or get blasted for the shoddy work!
Do yourself a favor and call GPI for a tune after all Ryan has done a ton of those tunes for that cam.
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Old 06-17-2017, 09:09 AM   #16
christianchevell
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First check your MAF make sure its not a dang bad code,clean it with MAF cleaner/ check its seal and make sure its tight and have the battery disconnected for a while and then try it and see what it does.... Decel popping from the fuel shut off does not occur normally on just revving a engine much like being under load...
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:32 AM   #17
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What kind of tuner did he sell you? Have you done any data logging and emailed him the logs? Even a halfway decent tuner can get you in the ballpark on a h/c/i bolt on car. Did you change the fuel injectors? This is why I have HP Tuners Pro. Hook up the scanner and get your answers right away...
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Old 06-19-2017, 05:36 PM   #18
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Also since you installed the cam yourself you have to ask yourself if you did everything right, many on here over the years thought they were so smart and screwed the pooch. Even the guy Robert Way back doing his had trouble figuring his preload..... so I listened and read over the years and what I could figure was; average is about the .040-.060 range for stock ls lifters that's in the 3/4 turn of the nut at zero lash, the nuts thread pitch is .047 so you have to also figure in the 1.7 rocker ratio x .047 to equal out to actual movement of the preload to be around .070 with a whole turn more in the ls7 range which still works with a lifter as its for both engines and the plunger travel is ok but tight and loosens up when the engines hot..... But the tighter the lash the harder to crank the engine over, the less prone to high rev valve float but also the noisier the lifter rattle until warmed up its like wow..... Just one thing to think about. Not everything is a easy breezy as a single guys post of his how too do it..

Our engines are so strong they can with rollers easily overcome being way over-lashed and they can also eat the cam, screw the roller lifters,etc.... and hope you did a good break in with br30 driven racing break in oil , or do a hardened 8620 core I do both, and measured along with the recommendations the correct pushrod length....The best tune hands down is always a dyno tune under load on a load bearing dyno. it also helps if the tuner has the stock gm software along with Hp tuners.

A handheld tuner has to have the cost of the tunes added into it for more cars other than a initial tune or two BTW....just as HP tuners licenses its product and you have to buy more tuning capability for more cars to load into it, for a handheld; its a brick only good for the one or two it tuned.....unless you pay to play.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:27 PM   #19
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Your car really needs to be dyno tuned.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:24 PM   #20
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Be careful with Speed Inc. Ive heard some bad things come out from them. im from the same area as you, check out Nickey for a tune. Its not cheap, but the dyno tunes they do are probably the best in the area.
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:25 PM   #21
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Did you resolve this? Have your tuner do the ignition and the fuel map separately then optimize both together to compensate for the change; totally sounds like a fuel issue, bigger cam= lower static compression

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Old 06-21-2017, 07:53 AM   #22
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Its going to the dyno next thursday. Hopefully he will refund my money��
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:02 PM   #23
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I have BTR4 with fast 102 and NW 102.. Had some minor issues at first, car was tuned at 7000 foot but i live at 32-3600ish. got that fixed but still not perfect. NW102 has been a bit of a pain to dial in.

Only issues i currently have is mostly because of 3.91s and trying to keep it under 2K RPM in town LOL doesnt care to much for that LOL
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Old 06-27-2017, 09:08 AM   #24
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Now he wont return my emails! I would hate to bring his name up and let people know who he is!!!
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:58 PM   #25
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Are you doing a mail order tune or dyno?
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Old 06-28-2017, 07:54 AM   #26
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I e been doing email tunes but going to a dyno tomorrow.
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Old 06-28-2017, 05:40 PM   #27
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Good Tuning in real time can quickly adjust the AFR adjust the WOT and so much more to improve the torque curve through timing and show problems through the HP tuning that under load cannot be so easy to deal with sending files back and forth trying to log performance. With my dynos I had stock gm software/hardware the dealers use and hp tuning on a mustang dyno under load and applied right you can see the many changes addressed to avoid pulling timing here or set things differently in actual time for instant results. Good Luck
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:55 PM   #28
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Went to the dyno today. The base tune this guy installed had no stumbling issues at all! Final numbers where 508 and 449. Drives almost as good as stock, but does buck a little bit still. I can live with that though. No more backfiring or stumbling.
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