DIY - ENGINE COVER PAINTED

[tabshire95]

Originally Posted by stmeria

This is what I did which is really easy
1- take the oil cap off
2- pull the engine cover
3- clean it with water and soap
4- dry it
5- start masking using painter tape and exacto knife
6- apply 3 coats of adhesion promoter "$8 on Amazon"
7- apply 3 coats of Autonotive paint for GM products " I got it from Auto zone $10"
8- apply 3 coats of clear coat "$8"
9 - remove the tape

How long between each coat?

[nicave13@gmail.com]

I buy my paint from Automotivetouchuppaint .com they offer all colors except Synergy green for $20 a 12oz can plus shipping. Good prices on supplies too, compared to anywhere else. Good luck!!! Sorry for the delay.

Pic's below are both colors off same website.

Originally Posted by jkupa10

Where'd you get the Carbon Flash Metallic paint?? Everywhere I can find it it's ridiculously expensive!

[stmeria]

Originally Posted by tabshire95

How long between each coat?

I waited 3 min between each coat

[tabshire95]

Did mine last night, came out great! thanks guys

[Forte]

What grit is used for the initial sanding?

[With envy]

Originally Posted by Forte

What grit is used for the initial sanding?

I didn't even bother with sanding the textured plastic. I tested sanding on a small section, and realized it would be a lot of work with questionable results. Instead, I used several coats of sandable primer (after the adhesion promoter and the plastic primer) to build up thickness. Sanded the primer, applied color (SGM, it has to go on in several coats), then clear. The SGM can be sanded between coats, but not the final coat. I didn't bother sanding it at all, because all it does is dull it down. I did several mist coats of clear, topped off with heavy wet passes on the last coats. When it cured, I simply wet sanded the clear until all the texture was gone from the surface, starting with 320 to 400 grit emery paper, finishing with 600 grit. After that I took the buffer to it with some compound, and it came out like glass, with no hint of the texture that I had covered.

[Forte]

Sounds like a plan! What kind of buffer/compound did you use at the end?

[With envy]

Buffer was just one of those orbital car polisher things you can buy anywhere, but I think a small angle grinder would work well if you have one. The compound I used was an off-the-shelf Meguiar's Ultimate Compound that I had laying around. It's a very tame grit that's more intended for the shade tree detailer, and it took awhile to do the job. I really think you could get away with using some more aggressive stuff, but it still works.
Oh, and some tips for buffing for those who haven't done it yet: LOW setting on your buffer (if it's adjustable like an angle grinder). Don't bear down-let the weight of the tool do the job. You get more even, consistent pressure that way.
Buff only flat surfaces: Stay off ridges, angles, and corners. They burn through real quick. Polish these gently.

[DJ-Silver 2SS]

Hey is mine, I did my fuse box cover and the air filter shield at the same time.

[nicave13@gmail.com]

Not gonna say what kind of car, guesses welcome, but I needed a project

I painted, everything!!! Car is 22 years old with 230k. Took 5 days and started right back up first try after removing almost everything but the engine. Intake and accessories are silver, entire bay is black, redid all black plastic including repairing wiper panel. Finally the rad tank, washer fluid and air intake were all done in Cyber Grey Metallic base coat/clear coat.

Thoughts?

[DaFisch]

Do you think you could PM me the clearcoat that makes it glossy?

[nicave13@gmail.com]

The best I've used is regular automotive clear from autotouchuppaint.com or whatever its called. The place that sells the body colors. Any auto clear will work, doesn't hav e to be high temp, just wait a week b4 re-installing. Only clear I ever seen crack was above radiator.

[With envy]

Originally Posted by nicave13@gmail.com

Not gonna say what kind of car, guesses welcome, but I needed a project

I painted, everything!!! Car is 22 years old with 230k. Took 5 days and started right back up first try after removing almost everything but the engine. Intake and accessories are silver, entire bay is black, redid all black plastic including repairing wiper panel. Finally the rad tank, washer fluid and air intake were all done in Cyber Grey Metallic base coat/clear coat.

Thoughts?

My thoughts are that you needed a project because you're still between jobs? Seriously, you need to go into lighting. I know that's not your educational background, but you're so damn good at it!

Originally Posted by DaFisch

Do you think you could PM me the clearcoat that makes it glossy?

Originally Posted by nicave13@gmail.com

The best I've used is regular automotive clear from autotouchuppaint.com or whatever its called. The place that sells the body colors. Any auto clear will work, doesn't hav e to be high temp, just wait a week b4 re-installing. Only clear I ever seen crack was above radiator.

My paint came from paintscratch.com, and the clearcoat they sent me to go with it was just Dupli-color. To save some money, I just bought more clear at Autozone (Dupli-color of course. Always stick with the same brand to avoid bad reactions). Just make sure you match whatever clear you are buying to the paint you are using: In my case it was lacquer.
I've been getting better at using it lately. Start by misting it in light coats over the paint. Then lay it on in thick wet passes (but not so thick that it sags or runs). Once it dries to a nice glossy, somewhat smooth surface, put it aside for a few days to cure. After that you can wet-sand it, then buff it with a polisher and compound. Should look great. It's been working out pretty well for me.

[Vegas SS]

I've been wanting to do this for a long time now and all of this info helps. Those of you that have the raised letters painted, how did you mask them off?