Car Unstable Under Full Throttle

[StlRomAniaN]

I took off the toe links and the bushings seem to be in great shape still.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[StlRomAniaN]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[StlRomAniaN]

The bolts were tightened to spec as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[StlRomAniaN]

Now what?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[StlRomAniaN]

Do you think the the bolts potentially "stretch" under load after all of these years of service and retightening?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[StlRomAniaN]

Bumpity bump


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[xc_SS/RS]

Something toe link related in the rear is not staying tight. Toe links are relatively inexpensive, so why not buy new links (1LE/ZL1 or Z/28) and get new eccentric bolts and see if that helps? Do this even more so if those are the original toe links on your car.

Or take it to a shop and have them check it out. But that could be more expensive than putting in new toe links yourself and then getting it aligned after.

Edit: those are the original toe links, I recognize that bushing. Get new 1LE/ZL1 or Z/28 toe links and new eccentric bolts and then see if it resurfaces.

[JusticePete]

It isn't wheel balancing. Change out the factory toe links to the 1LE/ZL1/Z/28 monoballs and fix your car.

[JusticePete]

Wheel balance does not change toe sitting on the alignment rack
A bad tire doesn't change toe on an alignment rack.

Only loose bolts or worn bushing will allow toe to significantly change between alignments this close together.

[StlRomAniaN]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

Something toe link related in the rear is not staying tight. Toe links are relatively inexpensive, so why not buy new links (1LE/ZL1 or Z/28) and get new eccentric bolts and see if that helps? Do this even more so if those are the original toe links on your car.

Or take it to a shop and have them check it out. But that could be more expensive than putting in new toe links yourself and then getting it aligned after.

Edit: those are the original toe links, I recognize that bushing. Get new 1LE/ZL1 or Z/28 toe links and new eccentric bolts and then see if it resurfaces.

Thanks! Definitely won't take it to the shop ever. Lol. With my experience on cars with Camaro5 to help, there's no need. I'm going to look into the 1LE/ZL1/Z/28 endlinks with new new eccentric bolts if my alignment this week doesn't hold.

Note: I'll be handing the tech the sheet of torque specs to ensure the bolt is tightened enough.

Thanks again all!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[christianchevell]

BTW our end links if you have not heard it are a weak plastic POS on your sways also... and regular rubber bushings have a lot of deflection they allow under stress compared to POLY big time. Good Luck, and if I were you I would look to some BMR stuff at Phastek just for giggles as its not that spendy..... and lots of places make good products for our car.

[JusticePete]

The rear drop links are not weak. They were developed for use on the GM T900 truck platform, 6,000 pound Suburban. They are also used on secure communication versions, the black suburbans.

Monoballs have literally ZERO deflection compared to poly or rubber. Rubber is frequently superior to urethane for many reason, but I'll take spherical and Monoballs over both.

[StlRomAniaN]

Guys,

The problem still persists, but here's the twist--I finally know (more like feel) where the vibration is coming from. My front passenger wheel.

I was finally able to do a decent pull with little to no vibration (just a lack of confidence in the car). However, last night, I was on a transitioning on-ramp from one highway to another. It's a long, semi-banked curve that stretches close to a 1/4 mile with speeds around 75-80 easily. Anyways, I was in the middle of that turn and all of a sudden the vibration/shaking begun. I wasn't on the brakes. This is when I noticed when the shaking was coming from--passenger front. The sensation almost oscillates and never really seems to calm down.

My alignment on the front is set as:

Camber: -1.9
Toe: 0.0

It could be a few things since I don't believe it's an alignment issue:

- Out of balance wheel
- Sticking caliper
- Worn LCA bushing
- Worn wheel bearing
- Worn coilover/shock

I'm going to swap my wheels in the front and see if the problem moves with the wheel. If so, I've found my problem. If not, I'll look at the other possibilities. OH! I also forgot to mention that my inner pad on my passenger front caliper is much more worn out than my inner pad on my driver front caliper. When the front end is up in the air, there is much more resistance on the passenger front wheel. It might be this as well. Instead of rebuilding it, if needing, I think this is a good time to get the CTS-V calipers.

Let me know your thoughts and feel free to ask me to clarify anything. I enjoy talking possibilities with you all. Thank you and God bless!

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Guys,

The problem still persists, but here's the twist--I finally know (more like feel) where the vibration is coming from. My front passenger wheel.

I was finally able to do a decent pull with little to no vibration (just a lack of confidence in the car). However, last night, I was on a transitioning on-ramp from one highway to another. It's a long, semi-banked curve that stretches close to a 1/4 mile with speeds around 75-80 easily. Anyways, I was in the middle of that turn and all of a sudden the vibration/shaking begun. I wasn't on the brakes. This is when I noticed when the shaking was coming from--passenger front. The sensation almost oscillates and never really seems to calm down.

My alignment on the front is set as:

Camber: -1.9
Toe: 0.0

It could be a few things since I don't believe it's an alignment issue:

- Out of balance wheel
- Sticking caliper
- Worn LCA bushing
- Worn wheel bearing
- Worn coilover/shock

I'm going to swap my wheels in the front and see if the problem moves with the wheel. If so, I've found my problem. If not, I'll look at the other possibilities. OH! I also forgot to mention that my inner pad on my passenger front caliper is much more worn out than my inner pad on my driver front caliper. When the front end is up in the air, there is much more resistance on the passenger front wheel. It might be this as well. Instead of rebuilding it, if needing, I think this is a good time to get the CTS-V calipers.

Let me know your thoughts and feel free to ask me to clarify anything. I enjoy talking possibilities with you all. Thank you and God bless!

- Worn LCA bushing OEM?

- Worn coilover/shock OEM?