Delete

[rontammy0]

Are we still debating bolt on v6s running with stock l99s? Why...it won't happen. The difference between the l99 vs ls3 is zero down the track....pick your poison next time a bolt on v6 owner is at the track.

[redcoats1976]

ever notice that any V6 thread always evolves into 1/4 mile times?this thread was originally about a guy blowing his motor twice.so...did it happen because he was trying to run down LS3s on the street or strip? i bought my RS because i wanted a nice,peppy cruiser with all the comfort options.if i needed the V8 rumble to make me feel like a man i could have just kept my 66 pontiac with the built 400,judge carb and intake,headers and duals.why are there more horror stories about the 6 cylinder engine issues than V8?couldnt be because 80% of camaros are running the v6,could it?

[PDXSSCE]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Now, the LLT and the LFX had NO low oil warning indicator until 2013 model year, so many have been run low on oil or even out of oil. This takes out the rod bearings and complete engine failure is the result.

Will adding an (aftermarket) oil pressure gauge solve the issue?

Bosch Style Line Oil Pressure Gauge FST-8216

Edit: The following posts are in a different thread:

Originally Posted by nyrfan

There is no low oil light on the V6, at least not 2010-2013, not sure on 14 & 15.

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

Absolutely not! A low oil pressure light is not a low oil indicator. By the time the oil pressure is low enough to set off this light, you have either been committing violence on your engine for a long time, or something just punched a hole in the block.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=400040

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Another issue that these engines had prior to 2013 is the PCV orifice was designed with far to small of a restriction hole and the "drill mod" must be performed. You need to remove the barb from the rear of the passenger side valve cover and drill the top 1/8" and the two bottom holes to 5/64" as these pictures show it becomes clogged and forces oil backwards out the fresh side of the PCV system to be ingested via the main intake air bridge

Can the 2010-12 PCV valve simply be replaced with the 2013-15 part?

[PDXSSCE]

Originally Posted by dustin0284

Almost forgot what this thread was originally about.

This is why I don't visit the forums much anymore. I like my car, I enjoy driving it. I don't need some nimrod trying to tell me he is cooler because he bought an SS.

Grow up

[Elite Engineering]

Gringo is correct on the drill mod. All 2013 and up have it, the 2012 LFX does NOT. Any with the black plastic valve cover need to mod, any with the cast aluminum do not, it already comes from GM with it. Simple to do, grasp the base of the barb with a pliers and turn as you pull straight up. Drill the bottom 2 holes with 5/64 drill bit, top 1/8th. Clean of all debris and re seat firmly back into the cover.

Here are the GM break-in instructions for all engines, replacement or new. This is not available for the general public due to liability concerns:







This includes today's LT based engines as well.

[PDXSSCE]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=2][COLOR=black]Gringo is correct on the drill mod. All 2013 and up have it, the 2012 LFX does NOT. Any with the black plastic valve cover need to mod, any with the cast aluminum do not, it already comes from GM with it. Simple to do, grasp the base of the barb with a pliers and turn as you pull straight up. Drill the bottom 2 holes with 5/64 drill bit, top 1/8th. Clean of all debris and re seat firmly back into the cover.

This includes today's LT based engines as well.

Do you definitively know in which model year the low oil level indicator began?

[farm rat]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Gringo is correct on the drill mod. All 2013 and up have it, the 2012 LFX does NOT. Any with the black plastic valve cover need to mod, any with the cast aluminum do not, it already comes from GM with it. Simple to do, grasp the base of the barb with a pliers and turn as you pull straight up. Drill the bottom 2 holes with 5/64 drill bit, top 1/8th. Clean of all debris and re seat firmly back into the cover.

Here are the GM break-in instructions for all engines, replacement or new. This is not available for the general public due to liability concerns:







This includes today's LT based engines as well.

Is this for all engines or just the V8's?

[farm rat]

Originally Posted by PDXSSCE

Do you definitively know in which model year the low oil level indicator began?

Shouldn't really matter. I drive approximately 350-375 miles a week. I fill up every Friday which usually amounts to ~14 gallons. I check my oil every Saturday morning like clockwork before the car ever gets started. Some people say to check it at every fill up, but I was always taught to check the oil when the engine is cold and all the oil is in the oil pan.

I am at about 2200 miles on my last oil change and I MIGHT be 1/2 quart low. Probably less than that. Regardless, I am still well within the safe range. I wont add anything until I change the oil in another 800 miles.

[Starfall]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

“
gear go wide open throttle to 5,000 RPMS and allow the engine to brake the car back down leaving it in second gear so it loads the rings in both directions. Do this 4-5 times and rings will be seated fully as good as they can get. If you break it in easy, odds are the rings will never properly seat, or abrade into the shape of the cylinder walls, and after 500 or so miles a hard glaze forms over the cross hatch hone pattern and the window has passed and you will most likely have oil consumption issues the life of the engine. Then, ALWAYS get that first oil fill and filter out, and ONLY run a full synthetic oil in the 10w40 range. We prefer Amsoil 5w50.”

I just wanted to go back to this, your recommendation for the break in and seals properly sealed, this information isn’t in my manual? The only thing chevy has listed is the following:

Starting and Operating
New Vehicle Break-In
Notice: Follow these recommended guidelines during the first 2 414 km/1,500 miles of driving this vehicle. Parts have a break-in period and performance will be better in the long run.
• For the first 2 414 km/ 1,500 miles:
• Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
• Do not exceed 4,000 engine rpm.
• Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow.
• Do not drive above 160 km/h (100 mph).



Could i have a little bit of information regarding if it is safe to do what you recommended? As the manual states “do not exceed 4,000 engine rpm”

[gringo]

Originally Posted by Starfall

I just wanted to go back to this, your recommendation for the break in and seals properly sealed, this information isn’t in my manual? The only thing chevy has listed is the following:

Starting and Operating
New Vehicle Break-In
Notice: Follow these recommended guidelines during the first 2 414 km/1,500 miles of driving this vehicle. Parts have a break-in period and performance will be better in the long run.
• For the first 2 414 km/ 1,500 miles:
• Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
• Do not exceed 4,000 engine rpm.
• Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow.
• Do not drive above 160 km/h (100 mph).


Could i have a little bit of information regarding if it is safe to do what you recommended? As the manual states “do not exceed 4,000 engine rpm”

I'm not Elite, but I do have an LFX. Those guidelines are out of date. That was back in the old days when engines redlined at 4-5k rpms. Following that ridiculous 4k rpm max rule, your rings won't seat properly. When that happens, you will have an oil burner.

Now, I'm not saying you should be bouncing off the rev limiter all the time, but a few bursts to redline and rapid deceleration is okay and actually good for the engine because it helps seat the rings.

When I bought mine new, I did everything the guideline suggests except the strict rule about never going above 4k rpms. Except for what gets caught in the catch can, I don't burn a drop of oil between changes.

As for the second engine that blew up on you. Well, that was remanufactured engine. I would trust one of those less than I would a brand new one from the factory or one that was rebuilt by a good engine rebuild shop.

[Starfall]

Originally Posted by gringo

I'm not Elite, but I do have an LFX. Those guidelines are out of date. That was back in the old days when engines redlined at 4-5k rpms. Following that ridiculous 4k rpm max rule, your rings won't seat properly. When that happens, you will have an oil burner.

Now, I'm not saying you should be bouncing off the rev limiter all the time, but a few bursts to redline and rapid deceleration is okay and actually good for the engine because it helps seat the rings.

When I bought mine new, I did everything the guideline suggests except the strict rule about never going above 4k rpms. Except for what gets caught in the catch can, I don't burn a drop of oil between changes.

As for the second engine that blew up on you. Well, that was remanufactured engine. I would trust one of those less than I would a brand new one from the factory or one that was rebuilt by a good engine rebuild shop.

Honestly, i guess i’m just worried that the LLT isn’t very durable, do you suggest i follow elites advice?

[HyperV117]

Originally Posted by rebelyell22

Why would you buy the 3.7 when the Ecoboost is way faster?

If it were me I'd probably go with the 3.7 knowing what I know now. Turbo technology is great and it's improved immensely in the last few years but the track record on these ecoboost engines has been pretty shit imo.

The amount of head gasket failures I've seen is pretty crazy (that's discounting the known gasket failures of the RS).

My brother's friend had his engine fail and ford denied him his warranty because of his tires. I guess installing sporty tires constitutes as proof that he had been "drag racing".

edit: that 5.0 though...

[Elite Engineering]

This is really typical for ALL engines. All engines have rings, pistons, and honed cylinders when new and the window to properly seat rings is only app. 500 miles. Then get that oil filled with debris OUT!!


The GM 3.6L did not have a low oil indicator until the 2013 model year, and most failures are a combination of running low as very few ever check their oil manually, and also running the super thin oils the manufacturer specifies in order to meet CAFE fuel economy standards which has NOTHING to do with what best for the engine. Until a few years ago, GM specified the original DEXOS1 which was a cheap blend oil that could not deal with the excessive fuel washdown and dilution so timing chain wear and failures were the result. GM now specifies the Dexos2 full synthetic, yet many dealers for the "free" oil changes still use the cheap blend to increase profit margins.


We like Amsoil 5w50 for cold climates, and for warm climates M1 15w50 is a good lower priced full synthetic. And not, bearing clearances are NOT tighter on these engines, that standard has been established for decades. So your engine will have less wear and last far longer and have a much longer life.


And as always, ALL GDI engines have 8-12 times the amount of raw fuel pushed past the rings washing down the cylinders and diluting the already far to thin oil to properly attack equals much accelerated wear and possible damage. Our dual valve E2-X system provides full time evacuation so this and the other damage and wear causing compounds are flushed and removed from the crankcase for the most part also aiding life.

[Starfall]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

This is really typical for ALL engines. All engines have rings, pistons, and honed cylinders when new and the window to properly seat rings is only app. 500 miles. Then get that oil filled with debris OUT!!


The GM 3.6L did not have a low oil indicator until the 2013 model year, and most failures are a combination of running low as very few ever check their oil manually, and also running the super thin oils the manufacturer specifies in order to meet CAFE fuel economy standards which has NOTHING to do with what best for the engine. Until a few years ago, GM specified the original DEXOS1 which was a cheap blend oil that could not deal with the excessive fuel washdown and dilution so timing chain wear and failures were the result. GM now specifies the Dexos2 full synthetic, yet many dealers for the "free" oil changes still use the cheap blend to increase profit margins.


We like Amsoil 5w50 for cold climates, and for warm climates M1 15w50 is a good lower priced full synthetic. And not, bearing clearances are NOT tighter on these engines, that standard has been established for decades. So your engine will have less wear and last far longer and have a much longer life.


And as always, ALL GDI engines have 8-12 times the amount of raw fuel pushed past the rings washing down the cylinders and diluting the already far to thin oil to properly attack equals much accelerated wear and possible damage. Our dual valve E2-X system provides full time evacuation so this and the other damage and wear causing compounds are flushed and removed from the crankcase for the most part also aiding life.

My engine has a warranty on it, would i still be covered under warranty if i use a different solution of oil (the one you recommended for longer life of the engine?) i currently use mobil1 5w-30 i’m in the PA region and it is getting kinda cold out, the 5w-30 never lasts very long.