06-27-2018, 08:17 PM | #1 |
1bad6
Drives: 2010 camaro Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: LA
Posts: 212
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Mods: trifecta tune on 93 pump gas, mrt v1 Axle-Back, drilled/slotted rotors, 4" quad tips, Res delete, big worm gfx black out kit all around, interior footwell lights.
Last edited by Starfall; 11-20-2018 at 04:28 AM. |
06-27-2018, 10:35 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Victory Red 6M Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Gulf Coast, TX
Posts: 1,424
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I hate to say, but the 3.6L in a Camaro is a long stretch from a sporty car. It's for people who either don't care about performance and want a Camaro based solely on looks, or they couldn't afford a V8 and had to settle. The 3.6L is junk Imo. The only V6 pony car I'd own would be the 3.7L Mustang. I hope you get it taken care of asap. If it were me and you were able to get it fixed again, I'd unload that thing like yesterday and get something more reliable
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2011 2SS 6A Red Jewel Metallic, Vararam Tune CAI, Magnaflow 3" Competition c/b, Speed Engineering 1-7/8 LT's, Circle D 5C, M/T 275/40R20 S/S, HPTuners tune by Ryan@GPI
12.3 @ 112 ACM as of 12/22/19 Gone on 12/28/19 R I P 2010 2SS 6M Victory Red/Black (old ride) CAI intake, Speed Engineering 1 7/8" LT's, X4 base tune, Flowmaster Outlaw axle-back. 12.6 @ 115 SAR as of 9/19/15 Gone but never forgotten. |
06-27-2018, 11:22 PM | #3 |
Drives: 1971 350RS/SS 4sp Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Rialto
Posts: 166
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I am curios to see what happens. I disagree about the opinion that the v6 Camaro is for those that cannot afford a v8 since the 3.6 is in many Cadillac products and having a v6 2013 myself has been a nice driving business coupe from my point of view until my engine blew up a couple of months ago...….of course after 4 weeks to replace the engine I got rear ended for a second time 2 weeks later.
I have it back now but it is likely worth nothing so might as well keep it and run it. Since I have to do that I would like to see where this leads.
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Camaros currently owned: 1
2013 1LS 6speed.... Blue Ray Metallic now gone and still have my first Camaro made 42 years before: 1971 RS/SS 350 4 speed Teal Green |
06-28-2018, 12:16 AM | #4 | |
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 901
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06-28-2018, 01:49 AM | #5 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2011 2SS/ RS INFERNO ORANGE L99 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Alliston Ontario Canada
Posts: 9,057
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06-28-2018, 03:12 AM | #6 |
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
Posts: 4,902
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i will start the fest off by saying that ive only had to add about a quart of oil total in the 3 years ive owned my camaro.33,000 miles with oil changed every 5,000.as long as youre not spinning the tires off every light or drag racing the 6 is perfectly fine.
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06-28-2018, 07:21 AM | #7 |
雪の玉
Drives: '22 Z71 RST Silverado Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: South
Posts: 3,415
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About 7 yrs ago, I remember a club member while visiting family, had to get a new engine after driving up to Philly, no oil and he had checked it prior to the trip and it was full.
You're probably not leaking any oil....the 3.6 LLT consumes oil. Some more than others. |
06-28-2018, 09:16 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 Vistory Red 1LS Join Date: May 2018
Location: Missouri
Posts: 487
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I change my oil every 3000 miles. I check my oil every Saturday morning before I take off for the day. I am 1003 miles shy of my next oil change and I have yet to have to add any oil.
Mine is a daily driver. I don't baby it, but I don't rod the shit out of it either. I usually run it up to about 3500-4000 rpms between shifts and try to maintain a cruising rpm of 2800.
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The Original Farm Rat
2011 1LS M6 Victory Red Sold 1967 Coupe Green and White 1969 SS 396 Hugger Orange 1969 Z/28 All original White with deluxe interior 1970 RS Blue 1978 Coupe Fugly Green 1978 WS-6 Trans-Am Factory 4 speed 1985 IROC-Z Red |
06-28-2018, 09:20 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,941
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All I can say good about the 3.6L is it has filled my wallet quite a few times, can't wait for more of them to come out of warranty. It is my least favorite engine GM has made, ever.
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06-28-2018, 09:37 AM | #10 |
Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,949
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I drove a LFX for 12K and never added oil over and above an oil change. But then I traded for a ‘sporty’ Camaro. BAAHH I suspect most folks who admit to a ‘little spirited driving’ go beyond that at times. Myself included. But I get the wanting to run it, they just ask for it.
I think when you squeeze every bit of HP from a, uh, lesser endowed motor, it is more prone to fail when pushed. There, that should add another page to two!
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“I don’t want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.” - Groucho Marx
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06-28-2018, 09:51 AM | #11 | |
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
Posts: 4,902
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06-28-2018, 10:38 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2012 RS/2SS, 69 ProStreet Camaro Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: North NJ
Posts: 478
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06-28-2018, 11:51 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,381
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The 3.6 LLT is actually an amazing engine, and the LFX an improvement on the LLT. The issues are common with ALL GDI engines. And this involves several things. First is the oil used. As all GDI engines experience many times the raw fuel wash-down as prior port injection engines, the oil is constantly thinned by this raw fuel. The dealers only put cheap syn blend in these so that combined with the abrasive particulate matter also entering in far larger amounts creates wear issue for the timing chains and tensioners. Then, the oil the dealer uses is far to thin as far as viscosity so that also contributes to wear. Now, the LLT and the LFX had NO low oil warning indicator until 2013 model year, so many have been run low on oil or even out of oil. This takes out the rod bearings and complete engine failure is the result.
Now, why do these and most GDI engines "use oil"? All modern engines use low tension piston rings, so properly seating these rings when new is critical. How is this done? Well the GM instructions for techs (that none of them read or use it seems) is when new, after making sure all fluids are full and no leaks, you take it to a back road for safety, and from a roll in second gear go wide open throttle to 5,000 RPMS and allow the engine to brake the car back down leaving it in second gear so it loads the rings in both directions. Do this 4-5 times and rings will be seated fully as good as they can get. If you break it in easy, odds are the rings will never properly seat, or abrade into the shape of the cylinder walls, and after 500 or so miles a hard glaze forms over the cross hatch hone pattern and the window has passed and you will most likely have oil consumption issues the life of the engine. Then, ALWAYS get that first oil fill and filter out, and ONLY run a full synthetic oil in the 10w40 range. We prefer Amsoil 5w50. Another issue that these engines had prior to 2013 is the PCV orifice was designed with far to small of a restriction hole and the "drill mod" must be performed. You need to remove the barb from the rear of the passenger side valve cover and drill the top 1/8" and the two bottom holes to 5/64" as these pictures show it becomes clogged and forces oil backwards out the fresh side of the PCV system to be ingested via the main intake air bridge: None of this helps you now, but I assume you drive easy and used the cheap to thin of oil from the dealer, correct? There is a shop in the Tampa FL area that does LFX swaps including engine and tune for well under $5k if your going to replace the engine again. More questions? Just ask. ALL GDI engines experience these same issues and it takes steps by the owner to get them to last. |
06-28-2018, 11:59 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2011 Vistory Red 1LS Join Date: May 2018
Location: Missouri
Posts: 487
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I am running Valvoline dexos rated 5W-30 full synthetic.
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The Original Farm Rat
2011 1LS M6 Victory Red Sold 1967 Coupe Green and White 1969 SS 396 Hugger Orange 1969 Z/28 All original White with deluxe interior 1970 RS Blue 1978 Coupe Fugly Green 1978 WS-6 Trans-Am Factory 4 speed 1985 IROC-Z Red |
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