Hot starting issues

[pumpman]

https://www.classaction.org/chevy-ca...c1f0-347459408

[HoodCheck]

A bit of an older thread I stumbled across here, but there was a lot of talking in this to blame it on headers...the issue does exist without headers too. I've had 3 cars (a 2012 2SS, a 2015 Z/28, and a 2016 2SS) that all had the issue when completely stock. The Z/28 actually got a bit better after adding ceramic coated headers (the new owner said it still cranks slow occasionally but has never failed to start; when I had the car, hot starts weren't any different than cold starts). The Z/28 I have now has the same issue, but only has the headers wrapped. I plan to ground the block, and possibly pull the headers to have them coated.

[larry_g]

I bought a Powermaster XS starter, no more problems.

It had gotten to the point that I couldn't stop for gas without planning on sitting there for 30 minutes or going first thing in the morning. I added grounds and cleaned connections but it got progressively worse. Starter had about 70K miles and 6 years of life before I replaced it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by larry_g

I bought a Powermaster XS starter, no more problems.

It had gotten to the point that I couldn't stop for gas without planning on sitting there for 30 minutes or going first thing in the morning. I added grounds and cleaned connections but it got progressively worse. Starter had about 70K miles and 6 years of life before I replaced it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Did you do the positive cable bypass? If not consider it if you should start having problem with new starter.

See here
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...8#post10107568

[larry_g]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Did you do the positive cable bypass? If not consider it if you should start having problem with new starter.

See here
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...8#post10107568

I looked at that one too, but didn't really want to do it. The way the new starter works hot or cold makes me believe that my original starter was just done.

When you think about it, all of those fixes are temporary bandaids for a starter with too much draw. As the starter gets worse, those fixes are less effective.

The car starts better now than when I bought it a few years ago. We'll see how long this lasts.



Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Did you do the positive cable bypass? If not consider it if you should start having problem with new starter.

See here
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...8#post10107568

Replace your starter and get rid of that jumper. Holy shit I can’t believe people actually do that

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by larry_g

I looked at that one too, but didn't really want to do it. The way the new starter works hot or cold makes me believe that my original starter was just done.

When you think about it, all of those fixes are temporary bandaids for a starter with too much draw. As the starter gets worse, those fixes are less effective.

The car starts better now than when I bought it a few years ago. We'll see how long this lasts.



Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

How's your car been starting now that it's been a few mos with the new starter?

[1JEWLDSSRS]

I was having this issue as the starter got older, I replaced it and now good as new, starts up nice hot or cold.. I just think these starters are not strong enough to turn over a 10.5cr engine when warmed up, thanks GM, kinda like the "old school" days when you increased your cr, you needed a stronger starter to start the engine up.

[lvlender]

Originally Posted by Mb6000

Has anyone figured out why our cars don't start or start hard when hot. Car will start fine when cold. Tried searching and never found out what the issue really is. Anyone have the answer. Heard to replace the battery, starter, or crank sensor.

The solution to my 2010 Camaro’s hard starting.
History: below lists out my car’s issues, see if they match up to your problems…

• Car starts normally when cold.

• After engine warms up, subsequent car re-starts are less and less vigorous as engine gets hotter.

• Once engine is fully hot (and starter fully hot from close proximity to exhaust) very slow, hard start to the point of starter almost stalling.

• Once the near-stalled starter fires up the engine, all dash ‘idiot’ warning lights come on, the tach needle drops to zero, “Service Stabilatrac” warning displays on dash information panel, car runs rough
and evidences pre-ignition. Service/warning Codes for “Crankshaft Position Sensor” (and/or other computer sensors) as reported with diagnostic tool.

Due to hard start issues, I installed a new Diehard Gold Battery in February 2021 which was replaced in October 2021 (at dealer’s recommendation) with an AC Delco battery.
In September 2021, after crank sensor fault codes I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and position sensor connector and wiring harness, billed $450.
Still same starting problems in October 2021.
After reading more fault codes the dealer ordered a new Brake Stabilatrac Module and said cost would be $800 installed. I decided to hold off and research the 5th gen forum.

I found this thread, read what you guys experienced and your fixes. I now believe (like many of you) the problem is lack of current flow from the battery to the starter.

The culprit is insufficient grounding, and insufficient wire size to deliver the volume of current required to spin a heat-soaked starter.

I cured the slow starter problem by …

1. adding a 20-inch length of 2/0 marine cable from a frame bolt to a bellhousing bolt



2. increasing the cable size to the stock battery negative cable by adding an additional 19-inch length 2/0 marine cable from the battery negative clamp down to the original factory negative cable bolt in in
the trunk floor.



3. adding a 9” length of 1/0 ga. marine cable to bypass the under-hood auxiliary positive battery post. See post numbers 49 & 55 in this thread for a how to…

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4

Video from 3M on proper taping of the split bolt connector used to connect the jumper cable to the under-hood positive cable...



An explanation of how to make professional HD power cables is here…

https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/

I own the FTZ # 94284 Heavy Duty Crimp Tool named in the how-to article. It is the best for making up power cables. You can find them for about $80 used on eBay.

Marine grade cable and power lugs are available at…
https://baymarinesupply.com/ftz-tinn...-terminal.html

Hope this helps.

[frey.199]

Originally Posted by lvlender

3. adding a 9” length of 1/0 ga. marine cable to bypass the under-hood auxiliary positive battery post. See post numbers 49 & 55 in this thread for a how to…

I'm kind of confused at this part. The car originally comes with 2 AWG wire running from the battery (+) to the aux post. You then bypass the post with a 1/0 so essentially you're going from 2 AWG to 1/0 then back down to 2AWG running to the starter, correct or no? How would it benefit if you're just bypassing the post to go back down to a 2 AWG wire?

[CamaroCracka]

You bypassing the post connection. You can't put a whole lot of torque on that bolt, so you are essentially eliminating the connectors. 2ga would probably work just as well. With that said, I would not do this on my car.

[frey.199]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

You bypassing the post connection. You can't put a whole lot of torque on that bolt, so you are essentially eliminating the connectors. 2ga would probably work just as well. With that said, I would not do this on my car.

Which is interesting because one day I was having a hard time starting up. I stuck a jumper to that post and it started right up, no problem, which told me something between that post and the battery was the issue. Not sure where though.

[CamaroCracka]

The cable between the post and the battery goes straight to the battery positive. The battery ground in the trunk is known to corrode.

I do believe the starter wire is on top of the cable to the battery at that bolt so you could have been bypassing the connection between the two cables providing voltage directly to the starter wire through the bolt.

[caper]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

You bypassing the post connection. You can't put a whole lot of torque on that bolt, so you are essentially eliminating the connectors. 2ga would probably work just as well. With that said, I would not do this on my car.

you likely would if the car wasnt starting and you were going through as many possible solutions as possible to get it to run.