Hot starting issues

[se7en]

^^^ Thanks

[NC_SS]

Can't say I've had any issues with the OE starter and I've been running longtubes for a year and a half

[se7en]

Found my issue! Thanks guys for steering me in the right direction. I ordered 4 gauge wire to run to the alternator and fuse box, 1 gauge to add a ground to the drivers side from the engine and also a power distribution box fused to control all this. This issued caused my alternator to weld itself together and fried my starter. The good news is I found an issue under the wire loom and coating that I have been chasing for awhile now.

Thanks guys!

[h018871]

Good job se7en, should be much better now!

[NipTuckTaxi]

I chased the hot start issue for a while myself. Mine was “simply “ a shorted connection In the starter where the ignition wire terminates or clips in the starter. A new starter was all that was needed.

[rebelyell22]

Crank sensor. Mine did it

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by rebelyell22

Crank sensor. Mine did it

? Please elaborate

[xc_SS/RS]

woah that is some nasty looking wiring

[Rhino79]

Usually the crank sensor code comes from low voltage during starting.

Things that can cause the hard slow start are:
Battery, starter, connections, bad grounds.

Often times we see the headers really blast the starter with heat and some people remove the heatshield which makes it worse.

If the starter is bad, replace with OEM starter. Try to wrap the headers to keep the heat out of the starter.

Electronics perform worse with higher heat.

[marklsx]

Just posted this info in another thread, maybe belongs in here too:

Last weekend I added a ground between the driver's side front of the head and the chassis ground bolt up close to the airbox/inner fender.

The biggest battery style connectors I could find in a store were 2 gauge at Autozone, and I got 2 gauge insulated copper wire at Lowe's.

I also removed the big ground wire between the front passenger head and the chassis, and I wire brushed all the connector surfaces.

Also disassembled the positive junction block on the driver's side (jumper post thing) and wire brushed all of those connector surfaces.

I did all this to try to help hot starts. It's been cold so I haven't had a good test yet.

[se7en]

Originally Posted by marklsx

Just posted this info in another thread, maybe belongs in here too:

Last weekend I added a ground between the driver's side front of the head and the chassis ground bolt up close to the airbox/inner fender.

The biggest battery style connectors I could find in a store were 2 gauge at Autozone, and I got 2 gauge insulated copper wire at Lowe's.

I also removed the big ground wire between the front passenger head and the chassis, and I wire brushed all the connector surfaces.

Also disassembled the positive junction block on the driver's side (jumper post thing) and wire brushed all of those connector surfaces.

I did all this to try to help hot starts. It's been cold so I haven't had a good test yet.

I think you're going to be excited with the result!

[marklsx]

Originally Posted by se7en

I think you're going to be excited with the result!

Thanks, I hope so. Just need all this snow to melt to drive a bit. And some warm weather to really test it out.

[christianchevell]

Well I did a Zero gauge wire around the Battery terminal in the hood since its where so much resistance could be with the leads off of it and the change in gauge after the terminal and as reported by others in the past its has helped my hot starting problem as far as I can tell so far and..I know my starters good and my battery; I would throw dash lights and such and have to wait to restart eventually or drive it as is with the TC/Stabilitrac off until it could restart faster not hot; have not noticed having to do that yet but I am still not just stop and start with hot engine over and over making very short stops repeatedly.

I am encouraged by the results so far just doing a bypass for the battery post is logical and required just going to my local alternator rebuilder I use for work etc....

and getting about 2 feet of Zero gauge wire and stripping it at the ends sufficient to do a twist splice sort of wrapping long strands in bundles around the 2" sections of the main cable on both sides of where it enters and exits the post/connections and twisting them together old school and wrapping it in electrical tape; net cost 1/3 a roll of electrical tape and 1/2 hour with exacto kinife bent over the hood......cheap mod.....and truly hooks up the smaller gauge wire on the other side of the post with a more direct path so why not........ I have only been driving with the bypass for a few weeks but so far so good.....

Some day I need to do a zl1 heat extractor also maybe get a aftermarket starter ,( have changed perfectly good new starter OEM with another for kicks along with battery);but hey we are gear reduction starter already and I have a sock/ cloth on my starter..( which BTW is metal also and can short on the starter wires); plus its lousy stock shield. And well if a thermal shield also holds in heat longer.....;Yes and so does the self adhesive insulation but hey its the thought...lol

Wrapping headers some day not going to happen so much more likely to go 3".... OH and also long ago I cut the center section of the hood to firewall seal out as its does not get water in the hood up in the cowl area and is old school heat relief for the engine... I save the section just for the heck of it with other junk....and can see the heat come out in radiance over the windshield. And this is two easy mods IMO that make sense and cost little IMO...... I would recommend, I long ago sanded the trunk ground which is a terrible design ..fuggin painted flat bar welded to the floor pan....with a little bolt that has to also hold a strap for wiring harness...WTF..... Good Luck.

[SneakySS]

[QUOTE=xc_SS/RS;10064040]woah that is some nasty looking wiring[/

Was waiting for someone to catch that lol