[apexit53]

Does anyone have a trick to get the screws out of the aluminum arms without the heads snapping off?

I haven't done mine yet but when I did my swaybar a while back the instructions told me to remove those ducts. I did two screws and the heads snapped off so i stopped and managed to do the sway bar without taking those off. But now I have a track day coming up and need to but the larger brake ducts on. Oh and put the OE ones back on after the event!

So Does anyone have any tricks? Id rather not have to drill them out again lol.

[Mountain]

Hmm, never had that issue with them on the cars I’ve messed with. How far into the bolt hole did the bolt snap off? Picture?

[apexit53]

Originally Posted by Mountain

Hmm, never had that issue with them on the cars I’ve messed with. How far into the bolt hole did the bolt snap off? Picture?

It snapped right in the arm, just the head came off. And i did this when the car had only 1000 miles on it a year and a half ago lol. I think its a problem with the type of screw in the aluminum.

If it happens again when i try it next week ill post a photo.

[kropscamaro16]

never had that issue and i put mine on last year before my first track day and just left em on lol no ragrets

[arpad_m]

This will be a bit anticlimactic, but my dealer had accidentally installed the track deflectors prior to delivery, and then also snapped off one of the bolt heads when asked to restore the street setup. I looked at it and it was not easily fixable, so they offered to order and install a new lower control arm for me, which went without a hitch.

There didn't seem to be any other way, I doubt even drilling the bolt out and rethreading the hole could've worked, because the bolt is steel (not even brass) and the control arm is aluminum, and I didn't want a larger diameter hack.

[Nick S]

Originally Posted by apexit53

Does anyone have a trick to get the screws out of the aluminum arms without the heads snapping off?

I haven't done mine yet but when I did my swaybar a while back the instructions told me to remove those ducts. I did two screws and the heads snapped off so i stopped and managed to do the sway bar without taking those off. But now I have a track day coming up and need to but the larger brake ducts on. Oh and put the OE ones back on after the event!

So Does anyone have any tricks? Id rather not have to drill them out again lol.

You could try using a heat gun on the back side of the control arm. Since it is aluminum it should expand a lot more/faster than the steel screw would and might give you just enough expansion to allow the screw to more easily back out. Or you could try spraying some penetration lube between the deflector and the control arm to let it soak down into the threaded hole and it might wick in there enough to give you some lubrication to help the screw come out easier.

I'd probably try the pentrating lube first. If you do try using heat be careful not to get the arm too hot or it could create a weak spot in the arm. It's probably heat treated/hardened aluminum and heating it up too hot and letting it air cool could reverse the heat treating process and therefore lower the strength of the arm at that point.

[Mountain]

The bolts are small diameter, we’re dealing with aluminium and if the bolts are snapping off, they likely wont be extractable easy...

If there is a bit of a head sticking out above the bolt holes boss, above the surface, it’s worth a shot. Otherwise, don’t waste your time. Zip tie the deflectors and replace the control arm later. Probably not what you want to hear, but the reality.

If you are going to try to extract, soak the broken bolts in brake fluid. Brake fluid is an effective penetrant that won’t harm the aluminium. Heat the control arm, not the stuck bolt, with a heat gun (no flame, that’s too hot and can impregnate the aluminium, change the comp. and weaken the arm). Than either use a vice-grip plier to twist the bolt out or welda nut or bolt onto the broken bolt.