Tick Perform. Clutch Master Cylinder install, Now i cant get it to Bleed.Update - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Reapers2SS · 05-18-2019, 08:31 AM

I bought the Tick clutch master cylinder and a Monster Twin Disc LT1S clutch for my 2011 SS. I figured it be a good idea to do the master cylinder install first. I didn't need to do the clutch just yet. The clutch is just prepping for Cam install. Anyway, I followed all the instructions and the install of the clutch master cylinder. Instructions say to install the master cylinder kit as shipped. Confused since the adjustable rodend was threaded all the way down. IS that how its suppose to be? Next it says to adjust the rod end out so that when installed on the pedal, the pedal will be in the middle of its travel. Problem with that is the return spring will just pull the pedal to the floor.

I did buy the remote reservoir and installed with the clutch master cylinder. Next I start to bleed and follow the directions also. Problem is the amount of fluid coming out and the pressure does seem to be enough. I tried bleeding it for hours. Same thing, I couldn't get a firm pedal at all.

Thinking about it. The remote reservoir for this doesn't seem to hold enough fluid to facilitate bleeding properly. At this point I don't have time to buy this remote bleeder hose. So I eliminated the remote reservoir for now and just connected the tube to the brake master cylinder. At this point I just want to have a clutch pedal.

I am very disappointed in this tick clutch master cylinder. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I cant get a strong clutch pedal to save my life. Pissed.

I don't post on here much. I think I have lost my account info and had to start offer a few times. I am a experience mechanic, Active Duty Army Helicopter Mechanic for the last 20 years. Please don't judge on my post count and yes I have tried to search but haven't found much info. Thanks and please help.

Nb1081 · 05-18-2019, 03:52 PM

wait till monday and call tick and ask for chris he's pretty helpful or try bleeding master by cracking the line at master while someone holds pedal sounds like there is air in there somewhere and pull the spring off the pedal

Reapers2SS · 05-18-2019, 05:12 PM

Well I basically just bench bleed the master cylinder installed. Hooked up the supply line from the brake reservoir and attached a clear tube to the supply to that would go to the slave cylinder and returned that back into the brake reservoir. Now that that is bleed, I hooked everything back up. SO I bleed the shit out of this thing. went through over a liter in Dot 3, so I know there is no air in this system. Still has no pedal. I just took it all back off and put the stock shit back on for now. I cant wait until Monday, I need my car for work. This thing as to be defective. Fluid is bypassing the piston inside. This is the only explanation for not having a pedal.

Just got the reinstall of the stock unit back in and about to bleed again. So disappointed.

Reapers2SS · 05-18-2019, 05:59 PM

Ok, the stock one back installed. Only took about 20-30 to bleed it, no problems. Now a waiting game to get this resolved.

5thgenlife · 05-31-2019, 06:33 PM

I just installed this and you can just gravity bleed it. It comes with the clevis all the way threaded on rod. I set my out like a 1/4" from that and pedal is about even with the brake pedal height. A few pedal pumps maybe like 20 and pedal is nice and firm.

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Reapers2SS · 05-31-2019, 11:50 PM

Well I sent it back to Tick and I just got it back this week. Well tonight I got it installed and back to the same thing. I cant get a pedal to return at all. I followed the bench bleed procedure I got from Mike at Tick and have plenty of fluid coming out from the lower line. But once I connect it, I am not getting the same pressure and its just not bleeding. I am just about over it.

Like last time, I just removed it and installed the factory one back. I didn't even bench bleed that one. With in 20-30 minutes I had it bleed and clutch was working. I don't get it with this tick one.

5thgenlife · 06-01-2019, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reapers2SS

Well I sent it back to Tick and I just got it back this week. Well tonight I got it installed and back to the same thing. I cant get a pedal to return at all. I followed the bench bleed procedure I got from Mike at Tick and have plenty of fluid coming out from the lower line. But once I connect it, I am not getting the same pressure and its just not bleeding. I am just about over it.

Like last time, I just removed it and installed the factory one back. I didn't even bench bleed that one. With in 20-30 minutes I had it bleed and clutch was working. I don't get it with this tick one.

I would really suggest you take 5 min and have some patience lol, all the time you have spent swapping them back and forth you could have fixed the issue. I didn't bench bleed mine.

I felt i couldnt get much pedal until i raised the pedal even with the brake and within a few pumps i had a hard pedal. That would have clevis unscrewed about a 1/4" or so. I suggest you raise the pedal to get it bled and then maybe lower it after.

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5thgenlife · 06-01-2019, 07:04 AM

Also put your reservoir cap on. I had issue getting pedal when i changed oem clutch. Wouldn't build pressure until i put the cap on. Not sure why tbh bc it shouldn't matter but maybe it does some how. And your pedal should hold itself at the top with clevis even being attached. I had to actually push the pedal down to get clevis on.

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Reapers2SS · 06-01-2019, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5thgenlife

I would really suggest you take 5 min and have some patience lol, all the time you have spent swapping them back and forth you could have fixed the issue. I didn't bench bleed mine.

I felt i couldnt get much pedal until i raised the pedal even with the brake and within a few pumps i had a hard pedal. That would have clevis unscrewed about a 1/4" or so. I suggest you raise the pedal to get it bled and then maybe lower it after.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Well I took the time this morning and installed the Tick Speed bleeder. Talk about patience, this took some serious patience with the trans installed. I'll try your way and see. I do have Monster LT1S twin disk clutch I still need to install. But the way this master cylinder has been going, I think its good to take this one step at a time.

Reapers2SS · 06-01-2019, 01:09 PM

Well I now the clutch is bled, I have pushed almost another full quart of brake fluid through this thing. Nothing but fluid is coming out. I press the pedal and it just stays on the floor or just barely returns just alittle. I did remove the return spring since that is what Matt at Tick said to do also. No amount of adjusting the rod makes any difference. I started with the rod all the way screwed in, as the instructions say and nothing changes. I adjust the rod so that the pedal is about even with the brake pedal and nothing. I have adjusted the rod all the way out to where the pedal is at the stock height and nothing.

Its bleeds and pushes fluid but there is NO pressure that pushes the slave and engage the clutch. it just basically pumps, does not provide pressure. Patience will I have had a lot and totally understand what I am doing. I understand this thing is not working. Out again and back in with the stock. FML

5thgenlife · 06-01-2019, 01:23 PM

How many times did you pump it with a higher pedal. Did you do it with cap on?

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Reapers2SS · 06-01-2019, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5thgenlife

How many times did you pump it with a higher pedal. Did you do it with cap on?

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

About 20 plus times, probably close to 100 total in difference series of pumping and bleeding. Yes the cap is on, always.

Reapers2SS · 06-01-2019, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5thgenlife

How many times did you pump it with a higher pedal. Did you do it with cap on?

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

The thing is when I open the bleeder, I get fluid. But I don't get fluid with any kind of pressure behind it. You might thing, well there is air is the system, I would think so too. But after going through almost a quart of fluid, there isn't any air.

I don't know how you got your to work, but mine isn't. It really should just be to easy, but with this Tick it isn't. Factory one is to easy though, just install, bleed, keep fluid in it and done.

Reapers2SS · 06-01-2019, 10:19 PM

Well again, the end of a painful day. So I see I am getting a lot of views but not much help. That's ok. One positive is that I did get the Tick speed bleeder installed. It works great with the stock clutch master cylinder. Negative side, this Tick clutch master cylinder still isn't working. Like I said before, I adjusted the rod different lengths just to be left with the same result. Yes the cap is on, from what I can see is that the cap and the rubber on the inside of it acts like a diaphragm. Once you get the clutch bleed enough and there is enough fluid pressure, the cap and rubber diaphragm allow a positive pressure to be applied. As the fluid is pressurized it will pull down on the cap/diaphragm creating the positive pressure needed. I could write a physics paper describing fluid dynamics, but that would just bore you. Anyway, basically that is what is not happening with the Tick master cylinder. Its not creating enough pressure. It does push fluid through the system, but doesn't create any force or pressure. Think is I can not find any leaks, nothing leaking fluid anyway. But my guess is maybe air is being pulled in. I say that because I attached a mighty vac up to the speed bleed and it would pull air bubbles, but it was like it was constantly pulling air. The mighty vac would hold a 20psig vacuum that would slowly drop and when I pump it back up to 20 it would pull more air. I was only breaking the bleeder a 1/8 of a turn.

So in the end I put the stock one back on AGAIN. Bled it no problem with the speed bleeder. Calling Tick on Monday. FML

05-18-2019, 08:31 AM	#1
Reapers2SS Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SSRS Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Killeen Posts: 14	Tick Perform. Clutch Master Cylinder install, Now i cant get it to Bleed.Update I bought the Tick clutch master cylinder and a Monster Twin Disc LT1S clutch for my 2011 SS. I figured it be a good idea to do the master cylinder install first. I didn't need to do the clutch just yet. The clutch is just prepping for Cam install. Anyway, I followed all the instructions and the install of the clutch master cylinder. Instructions say to install the master cylinder kit as shipped. Confused since the adjustable rodend was threaded all the way down. IS that how its suppose to be? Next it says to adjust the rod end out so that when installed on the pedal, the pedal will be in the middle of its travel. Problem with that is the return spring will just pull the pedal to the floor. I did buy the remote reservoir and installed with the clutch master cylinder. Next I start to bleed and follow the directions also. Problem is the amount of fluid coming out and the pressure does seem to be enough. I tried bleeding it for hours. Same thing, I couldn't get a firm pedal at all. Thinking about it. The remote reservoir for this doesn't seem to hold enough fluid to facilitate bleeding properly. At this point I don't have time to buy this remote bleeder hose. So I eliminated the remote reservoir for now and just connected the tube to the brake master cylinder. At this point I just want to have a clutch pedal. I am very disappointed in this tick clutch master cylinder. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I cant get a strong clutch pedal to save my life. Pissed. I don't post on here much. I think I have lost my account info and had to start offer a few times. I am a experience mechanic, Active Duty Army Helicopter Mechanic for the last 20 years. Please don't judge on my post count and yes I have tried to search but haven't found much info. Thanks and please help. Last edited by Reapers2SS; 06-08-2019 at 02:37 PM. Reason: UPDATE

05-18-2019, 03:52 PM	#2
Nb1081 Drives: 10 2ss/rs Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Shelby ny Posts: 436	wait till monday and call tick and ask for chris he's pretty helpful or try bleeding master by cracking the line at master while someone holds pedal sounds like there is air in there somewhere and pull the spring off the pedal __________________ [/SIGPIC]10 2ss ls3 sw long tubes,cai intake,phastek scoop,se3" exhaust,elite e2, bw stg2tb, tsp f35, motive 4.10 lpw cover, 15" conversion, 510whp tuned by john donovan Last edited by Nb1081; 05-18-2019 at 04:19 PM.

05-18-2019, 05:12 PM	#3
Reapers2SS Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SSRS Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Killeen Posts: 14	Well I basically just bench bleed the master cylinder installed. Hooked up the supply line from the brake reservoir and attached a clear tube to the supply to that would go to the slave cylinder and returned that back into the brake reservoir. Now that that is bleed, I hooked everything back up. SO I bleed the shit out of this thing. went through over a liter in Dot 3, so I know there is no air in this system. Still has no pedal. I just took it all back off and put the stock shit back on for now. I cant wait until Monday, I need my car for work. This thing as to be defective. Fluid is bypassing the piston inside. This is the only explanation for not having a pedal. Just got the reinstall of the stock unit back in and about to bleed again. So disappointed.

05-18-2019, 05:59 PM	#4
Reapers2SS Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SSRS Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Killeen Posts: 14	Ok, the stock one back installed. Only took about 20-30 to bleed it, no problems. Now a waiting game to get this resolved.

05-31-2019, 06:33 PM	#5
5thgenlife Drives: zl1 Join Date: May 2019 Location: Michigan Posts: 54	I just installed this and you can just gravity bleed it. It comes with the clevis all the way threaded on rod. I set my out like a 1/4" from that and pedal is about even with the brake pedal height. A few pedal pumps maybe like 20 and pedal is nice and firm. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

05-31-2019, 11:50 PM	#6
Reapers2SS Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SSRS Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Killeen Posts: 14	Well I sent it back to Tick and I just got it back this week. Well tonight I got it installed and back to the same thing. I cant get a pedal to return at all. I followed the bench bleed procedure I got from Mike at Tick and have plenty of fluid coming out from the lower line. But once I connect it, I am not getting the same pressure and its just not bleeding. I am just about over it. Like last time, I just removed it and installed the factory one back. I didn't even bench bleed that one. With in 20-30 minutes I had it bleed and clutch was working. I don't get it with this tick one.

06-01-2019, 07:04 AM	#8
5thgenlife Drives: zl1 Join Date: May 2019 Location: Michigan Posts: 54	Also put your reservoir cap on. I had issue getting pedal when i changed oem clutch. Wouldn't build pressure until i put the cap on. Not sure why tbh bc it shouldn't matter but maybe it does some how. And your pedal should hold itself at the top with clevis even being attached. I had to actually push the pedal down to get clevis on. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

06-01-2019, 01:09 PM	#10
Reapers2SS Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SSRS Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Killeen Posts: 14	Well I now the clutch is bled, I have pushed almost another full quart of brake fluid through this thing. Nothing but fluid is coming out. I press the pedal and it just stays on the floor or just barely returns just alittle. I did remove the return spring since that is what Matt at Tick said to do also. No amount of adjusting the rod makes any difference. I started with the rod all the way screwed in, as the instructions say and nothing changes. I adjust the rod so that the pedal is about even with the brake pedal and nothing. I have adjusted the rod all the way out to where the pedal is at the stock height and nothing. Its bleeds and pushes fluid but there is NO pressure that pushes the slave and engage the clutch. it just basically pumps, does not provide pressure. Patience will I have had a lot and totally understand what I am doing. I understand this thing is not working. Out again and back in with the stock. FML

06-01-2019, 01:23 PM	#11
5thgenlife Drives: zl1 Join Date: May 2019 Location: Michigan Posts: 54	How many times did you pump it with a higher pedal. Did you do it with cap on? Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

06-01-2019, 10:19 PM	#14
Reapers2SS Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SSRS Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Killeen Posts: 14	Well again, the end of a painful day. So I see I am getting a lot of views but not much help. That's ok. One positive is that I did get the Tick speed bleeder installed. It works great with the stock clutch master cylinder. Negative side, this Tick clutch master cylinder still isn't working. Like I said before, I adjusted the rod different lengths just to be left with the same result. Yes the cap is on, from what I can see is that the cap and the rubber on the inside of it acts like a diaphragm. Once you get the clutch bleed enough and there is enough fluid pressure, the cap and rubber diaphragm allow a positive pressure to be applied. As the fluid is pressurized it will pull down on the cap/diaphragm creating the positive pressure needed. I could write a physics paper describing fluid dynamics, but that would just bore you. Anyway, basically that is what is not happening with the Tick master cylinder. Its not creating enough pressure. It does push fluid through the system, but doesn't create any force or pressure. Think is I can not find any leaks, nothing leaking fluid anyway. But my guess is maybe air is being pulled in. I say that because I attached a mighty vac up to the speed bleed and it would pull air bubbles, but it was like it was constantly pulling air. The mighty vac would hold a 20psig vacuum that would slowly drop and when I pump it back up to 20 it would pull more air. I was only breaking the bleeder a 1/8 of a turn. So in the end I put the stock one back on AGAIN. Bled it no problem with the speed bleeder. Calling Tick on Monday. FML