Camaro 2012 Help - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

strickland03 · 07-16-2018, 09:26 PM

So I have a 2012 Camaro SS that is now a ZL1, with Cam, headers, supercharger and E85 kit. It's been modded for a couple years now, and is not my daily driver, and has about 32K miles on it. The other day, while stopping for a gate, it just died. Like the key had been turned off. But all the electrical were doing weird things. Radio would not turn off even with door open and key out. Said the parking brake was on, but wasn't. said door was open but wasn't, did the "open driver window" notice. Any ideas? At first I thought maybe the battery, but started reading and found all different kinds of crap.... HELP

Aaron0731 · 07-16-2018, 09:33 PM

Bad ground?

strickland03 · 07-16-2018, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaron0731

Bad ground?

That's what my brother said. How would I narrow down the ground that's bad?

Aaron0731 · 07-16-2018, 10:08 PM

Electrical skills. But honestly I wouldn’t know where to start except for checking your main ground connections. Get a multi meter to check voltage

CamaroFred · 07-16-2018, 10:53 PM

If you are on the original battery I would start there.

camguynj · 07-17-2018, 04:23 AM

Appears like a ground issue, although maybe bad Alt. Check trunk and main engine ground on passenger side block as well as Alt ground.

DT10 · 07-17-2018, 07:51 AM

If the battery or alternator were going wouldn’t it throw a light? I would check the grounds on any work that was done on the car.

Spurshot · 07-17-2018, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroFred

If you are on the original battery I would start there.

I'm with Fred.
When the battery isn't providing adequate voltage/current, it throws all kinds of lights.

I had something similar happen on my 14 SS. Change the battery, inspect the battery cables for corrosion under the insulation and replace if any indication there is corrosion under the insulation. On occasion a battery cable will get creeping crud corrosion under the insulation, starting from the battery. If it happens, the cable needs to be replaced. If they're good, clean battery cable ends (both ends), pull the ground strap from the engine and clean and re-torque.

Welker2 · 07-17-2018, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroFred

If you are on the original battery I would start there.

Another who agrees. Had a similar experience a while back. All kinds of weird electrical issues, DIC warnings, some gauges stopped working, others acted weird, car suddenly stopped but started back up, etc. Swapped out original battery, issues resolved.

strickland03 · 07-17-2018, 08:51 AM

Thanks all, I was going to start with the battery but started reading all kinds of stuff and talked myself outta it. Will start with Battery today!

strickland03 · 07-17-2018, 04:46 PM

So, new battery didn't work. Since the new battery I have gotten it to turn over and start twice, but it immediately dies, just like you turn the key off. Here are the error codes.. Name: image1.jpg
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DT10 · 07-25-2018, 11:39 AM

Did you figure out the problem? The open fuel pump circuit and the BCM are where Id start.

SlingShot · 07-25-2018, 12:53 PM

The car is angry because you call it a ZL1, rather than the modded SS it is.

69Camaro327 · 07-27-2018, 02:50 AM

Hey guys,

I think I may have a solution. Not a Camaro, but sounds the same:

My daughter's Jeep Renegade a few weeks ago wouldn't shut off when the key was removed, and sometimes the key couldn't be removed because of the interlock with the shifter that was part of the ignition switch was intermittent it seems.

Anyway, I fiddled with it to try to troubleshoot it and get it running. Her Jeep had the check engine light and the airbag light occasionally come on over the past few months. Had to disconnect the ground to get the engine to stop.

I reattached the battery and started it again. Same thing, but as I operated the key more and more, more idiot lights came on, as if there was an electrical problem somewhere in the starting or computer system that was making a bunch of random codes pop up while operating the key. To me, It seemed like the internals in the ignition switch had loosened, and when I turned the key, the contacts were randomly crisscrossing.

I did some research, and some other Jeep owners had similar problems with the ignition switch causing similar symptoms. I ordered and ignition switch off ebay, and swapped it out for the suspected bad one.

Problem solved! The odometer was flashing as you drove and a few idiot lights were on still, but it was drivable. Before the ignition switch replacement, I had disconnected the battery ground as my daughter saw online how disconnecting the battery overnight rebooted the body computer which fixed a lot of symptoms. Apparently, when you cross wires like with the bad ignition switch, that corrupts the computer memory which generates a lot of random bogus codes. I searched online for the flashing odometer fix.

I found online that disconnecting the battery fixed that as well. Apparently one rebooting of the BCM didn't fix all of the code issues. I disconnected the battery ground again for the three or so minimum hours suggested (don't remember what the actual number of hours recommended was).

I connect the battery and restarted it. 100% fixed. No flashing odometer or idiot lights on!

I took apart the old ignition switch to see how F'ed up it was. It seemed to be OK, although I could not see it operate as installed when taken apart. I belive the internals of the ignition interlock that was part of the ignition switch were what went bad. However, it was a sealed unit looking like a an old school hotel counter bell you summon the registration people with. I decided not to waste the time cutting it open to check the internals out.

Anyway, it has worked perfectly for a few weeks now, so the ignition switch replacement fixed everything. I was almost going to have it towed to the dealer to troubleshoot it, but thankfully didn't and fixed it myself as noted. I read online on how several dealer service shops had troubleshooted the same type problem and couldn't find the source with all of their fancy equipment. In hindsight, if I had taken it to the dealer, I'm fairly certain that I would be charged hundreds of dollars like they were with no fix found.

In the end, it cost me $62 to fix this maddening issue that seems similar to what was reported here. Probably not a battery issue.

If you think about it, such symptoms of a crossed wire type issue doesn't happen often in today's cars. Battery problems are easy to diagnose.

So, where would such an issue where it seems the electrical system was shorting wires? Wires rarely don't chafe. But there are only a few mechanical/electrical assemblies that could go bad internally to cross contacts an mess up the computer memory. Chief one would be the ignition switch, which was the problem in my case.

I bought the service manual and read the ignition switch Jeep service department Ignition switch replacement instructions before I replaced it. It said the entire steering column had to be removed to replace it. I decided to wing it to see if I could avoid that complex procedure. I was able to drill out the two fasteners attaching the switch and remove and replace it, even though access was tight. I saw when I got it out, I could have just held the plain heads of the fasteners (no hex or screwdriver feature) and removed the nuts and avoided the drilling. I made sure all the metal chips were vacuumed up before installing the new switch.

Anyway, let me know if this helps you. Renegades are built by Fiat in Italy, but most cars today have very similar architecture. I don't know how to replace a Camaro ignition switch, but it is located very similar to the Renegade's which was accessed by removing the lower steering column trim plate that splits at the horizontal centerline of the ignition switch. If you are lucky, after replacing the ignition switch, disconnecting the battery will fix the corrupted BCM software like in my case. If you still have a few issues like I did, reset the computer again by disconnecting the battery again overnight or for a minimum of several hours. That erases the ROM memory whose code is corrupted by the bad ignition switch, and it reboots when you reconnect the battery.

Anyway, good luck. I hope this fix is successful for you. It may be something else, but it sure sounds similar to the issue my daughter had with her renegade.

I did waste a few bucks on a bluetooth OBD connecter to diagnose codes, but I never had to use it, as replacing the switch and rebooting the BCM a couple times fixed all. My daughter had a about the same miles on her Renegade when this happened. Who knows, maybe the same bad ignition switch supplier makes both ignition switches equally bad!

07-16-2018, 09:26 PM	#1
strickland03 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 97	Camaro 2012 Help So I have a 2012 Camaro SS that is now a ZL1, with Cam, headers, supercharger and E85 kit. It's been modded for a couple years now, and is not my daily driver, and has about 32K miles on it. The other day, while stopping for a gate, it just died. Like the key had been turned off. But all the electrical were doing weird things. Radio would not turn off even with door open and key out. Said the parking brake was on, but wasn't. said door was open but wasn't, did the "open driver window" notice. Any ideas? At first I thought maybe the battery, but started reading and found all different kinds of crap.... HELP

07-16-2018, 10:53 PM	#5
CamaroFred Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 2,998	If you are on the original battery I would start there. __________________ 2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM

07-25-2018, 12:53 PM	#13
SlingShot Drives: 2012 ZL1 - #670 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Seminole, Fl. Posts: 8,009	The car is angry because you call it a ZL1, rather than the modded SS it is. __________________

07-27-2018, 02:50 AM	#14
69Camaro327 Drives: 1969 Camaro, 2011 RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Seattle, Washington Posts: 32 View My Garage	Similar Problem to What I Just Had! Hey guys, I think I may have a solution. Not a Camaro, but sounds the same: My daughter's Jeep Renegade a few weeks ago wouldn't shut off when the key was removed, and sometimes the key couldn't be removed because of the interlock with the shifter that was part of the ignition switch was intermittent it seems. Anyway, I fiddled with it to try to troubleshoot it and get it running. Her Jeep had the check engine light and the airbag light occasionally come on over the past few months. Had to disconnect the ground to get the engine to stop. I reattached the battery and started it again. Same thing, but as I operated the key more and more, more idiot lights came on, as if there was an electrical problem somewhere in the starting or computer system that was making a bunch of random codes pop up while operating the key. To me, It seemed like the internals in the ignition switch had loosened, and when I turned the key, the contacts were randomly crisscrossing. I did some research, and some other Jeep owners had similar problems with the ignition switch causing similar symptoms. I ordered and ignition switch off ebay, and swapped it out for the suspected bad one. Problem solved! The odometer was flashing as you drove and a few idiot lights were on still, but it was drivable. Before the ignition switch replacement, I had disconnected the battery ground as my daughter saw online how disconnecting the battery overnight rebooted the body computer which fixed a lot of symptoms. Apparently, when you cross wires like with the bad ignition switch, that corrupts the computer memory which generates a lot of random bogus codes. I searched online for the flashing odometer fix. I found online that disconnecting the battery fixed that as well. Apparently one rebooting of the BCM didn't fix all of the code issues. I disconnected the battery ground again for the three or so minimum hours suggested (don't remember what the actual number of hours recommended was). I connect the battery and restarted it. 100% fixed. No flashing odometer or idiot lights on! I took apart the old ignition switch to see how F'ed up it was. It seemed to be OK, although I could not see it operate as installed when taken apart. I belive the internals of the ignition interlock that was part of the ignition switch were what went bad. However, it was a sealed unit looking like a an old school hotel counter bell you summon the registration people with. I decided not to waste the time cutting it open to check the internals out. Anyway, it has worked perfectly for a few weeks now, so the ignition switch replacement fixed everything. I was almost going to have it towed to the dealer to troubleshoot it, but thankfully didn't and fixed it myself as noted. I read online on how several dealer service shops had troubleshooted the same type problem and couldn't find the source with all of their fancy equipment. In hindsight, if I had taken it to the dealer, I'm fairly certain that I would be charged hundreds of dollars like they were with no fix found. In the end, it cost me $62 to fix this maddening issue that seems similar to what was reported here. Probably not a battery issue. If you think about it, such symptoms of a crossed wire type issue doesn't happen often in today's cars. Battery problems are easy to diagnose. So, where would such an issue where it seems the electrical system was shorting wires? Wires rarely don't chafe. But there are only a few mechanical/electrical assemblies that could go bad internally to cross contacts an mess up the computer memory. Chief one would be the ignition switch, which was the problem in my case. I bought the service manual and read the ignition switch Jeep service department Ignition switch replacement instructions before I replaced it. It said the entire steering column had to be removed to replace it. I decided to wing it to see if I could avoid that complex procedure. I was able to drill out the two fasteners attaching the switch and remove and replace it, even though access was tight. I saw when I got it out, I could have just held the plain heads of the fasteners (no hex or screwdriver feature) and removed the nuts and avoided the drilling. I made sure all the metal chips were vacuumed up before installing the new switch. Anyway, let me know if this helps you. Renegades are built by Fiat in Italy, but most cars today have very similar architecture. I don't know how to replace a Camaro ignition switch, but it is located very similar to the Renegade's which was accessed by removing the lower steering column trim plate that splits at the horizontal centerline of the ignition switch. If you are lucky, after replacing the ignition switch, disconnecting the battery will fix the corrupted BCM software like in my case. If you still have a few issues like I did, reset the computer again by disconnecting the battery again overnight or for a minimum of several hours. That erases the ROM memory whose code is corrupted by the bad ignition switch, and it reboots when you reconnect the battery. Anyway, good luck. I hope this fix is successful for you. It may be something else, but it sure sounds similar to the issue my daughter had with her renegade. I did waste a few bucks on a bluetooth OBD connecter to diagnose codes, but I never had to use it, as replacing the switch and rebooting the BCM a couple times fixed all. My daughter had a about the same miles on her Renegade when this happened. Who knows, maybe the same bad ignition switch supplier makes both ignition switches equally bad! __________________

07-16-2018, 09:33 PM	#2
Aaron0731 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 295	Bad ground?

07-16-2018, 10:08 PM	#4
Aaron0731 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 295	Electrical skills. But honestly I wouldn’t know where to start except for checking your main ground connections. Get a multi meter to check voltage

07-17-2018, 04:23 AM	#6
camguynj Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 BRM Cammed NPP Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: NJ Posts: 3,812 View My Garage	Appears like a ground issue, although maybe bad Alt. Check trunk and main engine ground on passenger side block as well as Alt ground.

07-17-2018, 07:51 AM	#7
DT10 Drives: 2015 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Poughkeepsie Posts: 109	If the battery or alternator were going wouldn’t it throw a light? I would check the grounds on any work that was done on the car.

07-17-2018, 08:51 AM	#10
strickland03 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 97	Thanks all, I was going to start with the battery but started reading all kinds of stuff and talked myself outta it. Will start with Battery today!

07-17-2018, 04:46 PM	#11
strickland03 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 97	So, new battery didn't work. Since the new battery I have gotten it to turn over and start twice, but it immediately dies, just like you turn the key off. Here are the error codes..

07-25-2018, 11:39 AM	#12
DT10 Drives: 2015 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Poughkeepsie Posts: 109	Did you figure out the problem? The open fuel pump circuit and the BCM are where Id start.