Time for a cam swap, opinions welcome

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by Hixson

^^that's awesome. I thought I was done spending for the winter but it looks like I need just one more thing lol. Will need to do some reading for Straub vs summit vs CHE. This happened a few weeks ago too with new spark plugs, race wires, and heat boots. I need to just take a break from this forum until I have all the new stuff installed lol. If I'm not careful ill end up with a TT kit before spring at this rate!

I will do some checking too, but really I think any of them would be better than stock in the sense there is 0 chance of dropping a needle bearing when there aren't any

And I hear ya. I think every time I'm on here I'm like "Oh yeah, I need this too!"

Originally Posted by Abelardoo_12

The bushings take about an hour or so to do. I bought a small cheap bench vise and did the work on my lap, really simple and easy.

Thanks for verifying! I have been wrong before, but this looked like there wasn't a whole lot to it!

[WHAMMO]

Heres is my personal exp on it;
Ls3 stock tensionner is junk ; mine was broken in 3 pieces at somewhere to 20k miles. Barely holding. LS2 ia what you want.

Oil pump hi press cause there has been too much stock pump failure to not upgrade.

Trunions upgrade arent an uograde imo because they fail. Bushing is the only way to go.

High lift and big heavy springs will reduce your valve guides life. Better off with bit lower lift and single light spring to have more life on valvetrain.

Stock rockers are very safe on too, not much failure reported on ls sites. Roller tip rockers would be a good idea but there are not cheap. Sometimes I feel like they break more easily than stock ones with dual springs and high lift. Im no expert though, its all in the combo.

Im running a TSP 231 236 cam. It has great low midrange for the street, very fun from 3500-5500, where I spend most of the time. Limiter set to 7200. Around 540hp.

[frankwjr]

just make sure you have a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers...don't ask...

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by WHAMMO

Heres is my personal exp on it;
Ls3 stock tensionner is junk ; mine was broken in 3 pieces at somewhere to 20k miles. Barely holding. LS2 ia what you want.

Oil pump hi press cause there has been too much stock pump failure to not upgrade.

Trunions upgrade arent an uograde imo because they fail. Bushing is the only way to go.

High lift and big heavy springs will reduce your valve guides life. Better off with bit lower lift and single light spring to have more life on valvetrain.

Stock rockers are very safe on too, not much failure reported on ls sites. Roller tip rockers would be a good idea but there are not cheap. Sometimes I feel like they break more easily than stock ones with dual springs and high lift. Im no expert though, its all in the combo.

Im running a TSP 231 236 cam. It has great low midrange for the street, very fun from 3500-5500, where I spend most of the time. Limiter set to 7200. Around 540hp.

Actually have the LS2 style sitting on the work bench. It was the first part I ordered.

For pump, has anyone had issues from going to high-pressure? Back in the sbc days, I think people were worried about higher pressure blowing seals. Not sure if thats even remotely an issue now. I planned to replace pump either way as cheap insurance. Just didn't know about high pressure, hi volume, both, or a melling stock replacement.

Trunnion bushings got ordered yesterday! No more needle bearings up top

I am not concerned about valvetrain life. Seems like other people have been able to run tens of thousands of miles without much issue. Seeing as how I might put 1500 miles/year on this car, I am not really concerned with valvetrain longevity. I may feel different if it was a DD, but I have 3 other cars I can drive if this one is ever down.

If you are running the TSP 231/236, then that would be the stage 3. I am looking at the NEW stage 3 (231/246), so I would think they would be halfway similar. So you are just running a light single spring with that cam??

Originally Posted by frankwjr

just make sure you have a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers...don't ask...

Well crap! I have A set, but I doubt it was a GOOD set.

If mine don't cut it, I am sure I know some people with better ones that I could borrow for an hour

[Abelardoo_12]

A lot of people say the l99 pump is good and you can keep using it, others say a high pressure high volum will suck the pan dry. Its a conflicting subject where you wont really get a right answer. I dont know much about it either but what I can tell you is that I added the high volume high pressure when I did the cam just because thats what ryan from gpi told me to do and with 6k miles after the cam I’ve never had an issue with it. And I drive it pretty hard too.

[WHAMMO]

Im running TSP 650' doubles. Tsp tech line told me to go with hi pres because hi volume could suck the pan dry. Did some reading and while it could be possible, other sponsor says its not an issue/not possible.

If youre doing the job, get a good ls double valvespring tool like the TFS or the one from BTR, dont go with a single style one!! Get a pushrod checker too. There is a little custom bolt/part to bolt the pickup tube back in place, its worth a look.

If using ARP cam bolts, use blue locktite, the torq spec are confusing but the answer is outhere lol, with locktite. Because with stock cam bolts torq is different with assembly lube. There is a procedure to shim the oil pump that you can check out before torquing to spec. I wasnr aware but its not mandatory if youre not spining to the moon, but I would do it anyway.

[christianchevell]

Improved racing also makes a nice windage tray, the higher volume is whats been recommended over the years which of course does result in higher pressure, I used to run a tsp 235/239 with .639/.623 at 112 lsa was a awesome cam, made lots of higher Hp numbers but left the Torque ....well not so much as different cams and different LSA's make a big difference in the performance, frankly if your only interested in bragging rights ....that's not good. And btw you get used to taking off with a cam with a higher set Idle and take off you know you wont feel much difference in feel between what would be somes stage 2 and a stage 4.....

The higher the lift the more break able the springs are also BTW and I used to run .675 springs for the 235/239 ...eventually they changed the spec, and of course a mechanical overrev from downshifting can take even more life off the springs. Many have gone different ways with different builds over time, heck there was guy with some OK numbers just running yellow Terras 1.85 rockers until well he totaled his car...

what ever you say on here is able to be interpreted and theres more than one way to skin a cat. More power where I use it is where I am at with a milder cam and a stroker until someday I have money again. Please buy a good manual for modifying the LS engine don't just go from the DIY on here but read them to help understand, I use a 8620 core and BR30 for break in and run ls30 oil.... there never used to be 8620 cores BTW..... and I ran the TSP cam for 10 k and it was prestine and sold to recoup some from changing engines as life happens...so does this damn FLU....

And don't believe everything you hear on the internet...BTW some peoples claims

Bushing trunnions good....took time have them developed, better than the comp trunnions I am running now, not my first Camaro gen 5 either..and with the miles most likely on your Camaro you should be looking at new head gaskets new tty bolts new lifter baskets and lifters.... and some cleaner to clean up while its apart along with bunch of specialty tools and local good dyno to get the car HP tuned...its all about $$$$$ good luck I am sick.......... 1.7 x .047 = .077 a complete turn is over tight for the preload with even the ls7 at only .070 the ls3 is happier and quieter less preload like .040-.060 range and its dependent on what up if your looking to spin it to the moon and not valve float etc...or just happy built not looking to try to impress yourself as others...they don't care so much but do notice lifter ticking which on mine is louder until the oil is hot..and metal expands. BTW mines a daily, its high torque and I plan on 25k spring swaps and next set I upgrade my trunnions again for insurance.

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by WHAMMO

Im running TSP 650' doubles. Tsp tech line told me to go with hi pres because hi volume could suck the pan dry. Did some reading and while it could be possible, other sponsor says its not an issue/not possible.

If youre doing the job, get a good ls double valvespring tool like the TFS or the one from BTR, dont go with a single style one!! Get a pushrod checker too. There is a little custom bolt/part to bolt the pickup tube back in place, its worth a look.

If using ARP cam bolts, use blue locktite, the torq spec are confusing but the answer is outhere lol, with locktite. Because with stock cam bolts torq is different with assembly lube. There is a procedure to shim the oil pump that you can check out before torquing to spec. I wasnr aware but its not mandatory if youre not spining to the moon, but I would do it anyway.

Yeah, I would be shocked if a HV pump could suck 8+ quarts of oil dry..I just don't see how that's possible. Will probably end up going with a HP melling

For the spring tool, any reason other than being able to go faster doing 2 at a time? I don't see this as a tool I will be using terribly often! lol I was going to order a pushrod checker too, just to make sure the length is correct before it goes together. For pickup tube, are you talking about that little fork/bolt that allows you to bolt it from both sides instead of just one? I saw that for the first time the other day..now I can't find the link lol.

And yes I planned to convert to a 3 bolt, and it comes with ARP cam bolts. Glad you said that before I torqued it down to GM specs! I did see that some people pull the front plate off the pump and shim everything to make sure it's centered. I don't plan on spinning over 7k, but will still do this anyhow just as an added precaution.

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Improved racing also makes a nice windage tray, the higher volume is whats been recommended over the years which of course does result in higher pressure, I used to run a tsp 235/239 with .639/.623 at 112 lsa was a awesome cam, made lots of higher Hp numbers but left the Torque ....well not so much as different cams and different LSA's make a big difference in the performance, frankly if your only interested in bragging rights ....that's not good. And btw you get used to taking off with a cam with a higher set Idle and take off you know you wont feel much difference in feel between what would be somes stage 2 and a stage 4.....

The higher the lift the more break able the springs are also BTW and I used to run .675 springs for the 235/239 ...eventually they changed the spec, and of course a mechanical overrev from downshifting can take even more life off the springs. Many have gone different ways with different builds over time, heck there was guy with some OK numbers just running yellow Terras 1.85 rockers until well he totaled his car...

what ever you say on here is able to be interpreted and theres more than one way to skin a cat. More power where I use it is where I am at with a milder cam and a stroker until someday I have money again. Please buy a good manual for modifying the LS engine don't just go from the DIY on here but read them to help understand, I use a 8620 core and BR30 for break in and run ls30 oil.... there never used to be 8620 cores BTW..... and I ran the TSP cam for 10 k and it was prestine and sold to recoup some from changing engines as life happens...so does this damn FLU....

And don't believe everything you hear on the internet...BTW some peoples claims

Bushing trunnions good....took time have them developed, better than the comp trunnions I am running now, not my first Camaro gen 5 either..and with the miles most likely on your Camaro you should be looking at new head gaskets new tty bolts new lifter baskets and lifters.... and some cleaner to clean up while its apart along with bunch of specialty tools and local good dyno to get the car HP tuned...its all about $$$$$ good luck I am sick.......... 1.7 x .047 = .077 a complete turn is over tight for the preload with even the ls7 at only .070 the ls3 is happier and quieter less preload like .040-.060 range and its dependent on what up if your looking to spin it to the moon and not valve float etc...or just happy built not looking to try to impress yourself as others...they don't care so much but do notice lifter ticking which on mine is louder until the oil is hot..and metal expands. BTW mines a daily, its high torque and I plan on 25k spring swaps and next set I upgrade my trunnions again for insurance.

Yeah I'm not worried about the maintenance requirements of a higher cam. This is not a daily, its mostly a garage queen. Even if I have to swap springs after 25k...that's probably 10+ years down the road for me. May have whole new setup by then.

I do have a manual for rebuilding LS engines on the way as well. I am not new to building chevy's, but this is my first LS motor I'm diving into, so wanted to have a book with correct specs for everything, lest I try things that worked on "old chevy's" but not correct for newer engines. Also, the book is less subject to be an opinion on things.

I only have 21k on the car, so while I will be pulling heads and inspecting, I believe the lifters are still fine at this point. If anything looks like it's worn, I will replace it then. I am doing this over the winter when I am not driving anyhow, so that I have no excuses not to take my time and do things right the first time. I am just going to bite the bullet now and replace the head bolts with ARP. TTY doesn't sound fun while engine is in car. Plus, they can be reused instead of throwing away. Thanks for the info on the preload.

[GPI Aaron]

Regardless of your cam choice, by eliminating the VVT you are going to step over some useful midrange torque with comparable high RPM results. Study the RPM range you will be operating within based on trans, final drive ratios and converter choice. If the engine will ever see duty below the curve, retaining VVT holds some advantages with no down side that we have found.

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by GPI Aaron

Regardless of your cam choice, by eliminating the VVT you are going to step over some useful midrange torque with comparable high RPM results. Study the RPM range you will be operating within based on trans, final drive ratios and converter choice. If the engine will ever see duty below the curve, retaining VVT holds some advantages with no down side that we have found.

If I had VVT to begin with, I would most likely retain it and just delete AFM.

However, I have an LS3, so there is not VVT on this engine, unless I missed something major in all my research?

[GPI Aaron]

My bad, I responded to the wrong post, I will go back to sleep.

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by GPI Aaron

My bad, I responded to the wrong post, I will go back to sleep.

It happens man! I was just like "Wait did I completely miss something major and plan this out wrong?" lol

[GPI Aaron]

Now after reading your info, I will offer this: the LS3 responds to compression, sometimes a little squeeze goes futher than intake duration if one must make a choice. A little flycutting gives you your cake and lets you eat it too. If we can help you in any way let us know.