Drag setup

[Tajefe Couple]

Totally agree with Chris especially if you've ever watched a drag car wrinkle the tires. Extremely high hp needs a slick to achieve better contact, hence why pro drag racers run slicks I believe.

[Greenhornet2]

I'm not extremely high hp. I haven't dynotuned yet but i'm guessing I'll be around 600whp when tuned. Next year if i do the cam maybe 650-700. Am i going overkill if i did the 17s with bias ply drag slicks where i could get away with 18s and nto5rs?

[Tajefe Couple]

I think like Chris was eluding 17" would be better(and the size of choice in your power range) with a taller sidewall, less stress on other things that way. I don't speak from experience though, waiting to order some 17" Welds and skinnies for the front next year hopefully when I can race. I believe people with a lot of power do the 15" conversion and run beadlocks.

Perhaps someone with experience will chime in and answer that for you.

[acammer]

Here is my thought - these cars just don't have the strength of driveline to survive the clutch dump style launches you usually associate with a bias-ply stick car. The Bias-ply can help, but it won't save an SS axle or diff from that kind of abuse. The drag radial is a more efficient tire and makes better MPH and stability down track. And, if you're managing the clutch on the launch (like pretty much all the fast M6 5th gen guys do) then a drag radial isn't hurting you on the leave, and is helping you the rest of the way.

And if you plan on street driving it much at all, the drag radial is a far better tire then running around on a bias ply.

[Greenhornet2]

Are the ET Street's good? My buddy had them on his 89 mustang he didn't like them. But he really didn't heat them up before launching he never actually dragged the car but he could spin them pretty easy just tooling around.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by acammer

Here is my thought - these cars just don't have the strength of driveline to survive the clutch dump style launches you usually associate with a bias-ply stick car. The Bias-ply can help, but it won't save an SS axle or diff from that kind of abuse. The drag radial is a more efficient tire and makes better MPH and stability down track. And, if you're managing the clutch on the launch (like pretty much all the fast M6 5th gen guys do) then a drag radial isn't hurting you on the leave, and is helping you the rest of the way.

And if you plan on street driving it much at all, the drag radial is a far better tire then running around on a bias ply.

And a little more legal, huh Andrew? Lol

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Are the ET Street's good? My buddy had them on his 89 mustang he didn't like them. But he really didn't heat them up before launching he never actually dragged the car but he could spin them pretty easy just tooling around.

The ET streets are good. I have the S/S and they have good grip on a 17" wheel. Its not just in the tires though, its the whole setup thats going to determine how well you can hook. Your friend's old Foxbody needed more than just tires, suspension upgrades were a must with those cars. They are important for ours as well. Your setup is going to really be awesome with the right wheel and tire combo, and suspension upgrades

[Greenhornet2]

Yea he has QA1 coil overs and some aftermarjet stuff for the 4 link not sure. I think its just because he never heated them.
I saw the s/s i wasn't sure if they would be better or worse than the the regular ET streets

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Yea he has QA1 coil overs and some aftermarjet stuff for the 4 link not sure. I think its just because he never heated them.
I saw the s/s i wasn't sure if they would be better or worse than the the regular ET streets

Theres the MT Street S/S and the MT Street R. The R is the stickier of the 2, and has less longevity than the S/S. Its still DOT legal but its a purpose built race tire.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Theres the MT Street S/S and the MT Street R. The R is the stickier of the 2, and has less longevity than the S/S. Its still DOT legal but its a purpose built race tire.

The Hoosier DR2 is another real good near full race drag radial you can consider as well. I would rank them in order of performance is Hoosier DR2, Mickey ET-R, M&H Racemaster, Mickey ET S/S, Nitto NT05R from a straight line grip perspective. You can reverse that order for longevity. You wouldn't want to be caught in the rain on the DR2 or ET-R - basically slicks with a few groves cut in the them to get a DOT stamp. The other three, when they are new, aren't quite as dangerous in the rain (but still pretty sketchy) - and just get worse as they wear, which the ET S/S and M&H will do pretty quickly - the NT05R definitely has the longest lifespan by a big margin.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by acammer

The Hoosier DR2 is another real good near full race drag radial you can consider as well. I would rank them in order of performance is Hoosier DR2, Mickey ET-R, M&H Racemaster, Mickey ET S/S, Nitto NT05R from a straight line grip perspective. You can reverse that order for longevity. You wouldn't want to be caught in the rain on the DR2 or ET-R - basically slicks with a few groves cut in the them to get a DOT stamp. The other three, when they are new, aren't quite as dangerous in the rain (but still pretty sketchy) - and just get worse as they wear, which the ET S/S and M&H will do pretty quickly - the NT05R definitely has the longest lifespan by a big margin.

Speaking of which, I am driving down to GPI right now, stopped to get gas, and its been raining most of the way. I have been hydroplaning a lot, its sketchy as hell.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Speaking of which, I am driving down to GPI right now, stopped to get gas, and its been raining most of the way. I have been hydroplaning a lot, its sketchy as hell.

Careful sir! But - send it all the way on the dyno! ALL the RPM. If I know Ryan and Ben at all you won't be disappointed!

[Greenhornet2]

I am not worried about rain at all, or longevity. I will be using the Hankooks for regular driving. I do not daily drive the car, It only comes out on nice days. The Drags will only go on if a race event is planned and will come off before the next cruise there will be very little road miles put on them. Thank you for the additional info!

[Greenhornet2]

Well here's an update if anyone was wondering. I found a set of weld s71s 17x10 with hoosier 28x10x17 one track day on the set. $700... i couldn't turn it down. I dynoed at 574whp on what i would consider a conservative good tune.