Here is a complete how to DIY for subframe / cradle bushing removal - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Chris49066SS · 10-25-2018, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tazman

Thanks for the information and thanks for the great write up Chris!

Absolutely!

acammer · 10-25-2018, 11:56 AM

Nice write up. Did this a few months ago - pretty simple process. Moreover, this is one of those "must do" mods in my opinion. One of the best/most noticeable changes I've made to this car. Anybody asks me the top 4 mods for a 5th gen SS I tell them headers, tune, 4.10s and solid rear sub frame bushings.

Chris49066SS · 10-25-2018, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acammer

Nice write up. Did this a few months ago - pretty simple process. Moreover, this is one of those "must do" mods in my opinion. One of the best/most noticeable changes I've made to this car. Anybody asks me the top 4 mods for a 5th gen SS I tell them headers, tune, 4.10s and solid rear sub frame bushings.

Thanks, yeah they are definitely worth it. Much better than those "silly" rubber bushings.

zlathim · 10-29-2018, 03:13 PM

Damn good write-up. Thank you!

Chris49066SS · 10-31-2018, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlathim

Damn good write-up. Thank you!

Thanks, and I have now added some pictures as part of an effort to continuously further improve and refine the DIY instructions. See Figure 1A through Figure 2B

zlathim · 11-01-2018, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Thanks, and I have now added some pictures as part of an effort to continuously further improve and refine the DIY instructions. See Figure 1A through Figure 2B

Excellent addition to an already great thread!

Chris49066SS · 11-09-2018, 08:27 PM

You're welcome. Have had several people asking for it that couldn't find this DIY.

zlathim · 11-19-2018, 11:24 AM

tlamb2 · 09-10-2019, 05:09 AM

The OP failed to mention that getting the old ones out is easy. But putting the rear top bushings is next to impossible without removing the whole cradle. I just did mine yesterday. And due to the alignment pin coming down from the top of the subframe that is 1.5 inches long and goes into the bushing, there was no way to get a 1inch socket in there so we used a 1-inch washer which worked but getting the top rear bushing to seat in the cradle between the subframe and cradle we had to use a 5 foot piece of metal to get enough room to squeez in the top bushing, it took hours. I just hope we did not bend anything with all the pressure we used to flex the cradle down. Now the car is all over the place when I hammer it but I assume it just needs a alignment I hope. But those rear top bushings are a major PITA.

eLeSthree · 10-15-2019, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tlamb2

The OP failed to mention that getting the old ones out is easy. But putting the rear top bushings is next to impossible without removing the whole cradle. I just did mine yesterday. And due to the alignment pin coming down from the top of the subframe that is 1.5 inches long and goes into the bushing, there was no way to get a 1inch socket in there so we used a 1-inch washer which worked but getting the top rear bushing to seat in the cradle between the subframe and cradle we had to use a 5 foot piece of metal to get enough room to squeez in the top bushing, it took hours. I just hope we did not bend anything with all the pressure we used to flex the cradle down. Now the car is all over the place when I hammer it but I assume it just needs a alignment I hope. But those rear top bushings are a major PITA.

I just followed this how-to last night. On the drivers side, I skipped removing the lower control arm bolt at the knuckle and loosening it from the cradle side. Even with the shock bolt removed and the swaybar endlink disconnected, it still didnt allow much room to get the new upper (larger) bushing into place. I fought it for at least an hour, but using leverage was able to get it in.

Tonight I'll do the passenger side (old ones already out) and will definitely be removing the control arm bolts. Lots of videos online showing how to remove the bushings, but none that show how to install them.

My 3 inch exhaust isnt helping...

Thanks for the write up Chris.

Pkeen · 10-23-2019, 08:05 PM

Hi all,
Excellent write up Chris, i did mine following this and went smooth. I used the BMR urethane pro bushings and didn't like the slight gap the bushings had when tight. So i pulled the steel sleeves out and shortened them 1/8" and reinstalled . that tightened them up nice , im pretty sure that made a dif. To the good.

Chris49066SS · 10-26-2019, 01:53 PM

You're very welcome guys, glad to know it helped ya out!

tlamb2 · 10-27-2019, 01:14 AM

Now it is complete thanks

xc_SS/RS · 07-20-2020, 07:49 PM

Just used this and wanted to bump it for anyone who might need it. I froze mine for a few hours and used the torch to heat up the metal before putting them in and it seemed to help. I also did rear upper control arms bushings at the same time and was able to pop those off without removing the whole upper control arm. Took 5.5 hours total with a few breaks to cool off. Thanks Chris!

10-25-2018, 11:56 AM	#16
acammer GPI Sales Consultant Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Weedsport, NY Posts: 2,794 View My Garage	Nice write up. Did this a few months ago - pretty simple process. Moreover, this is one of those "must do" mods in my opinion. One of the best/most noticeable changes I've made to this car. Anybody asks me the top 4 mods for a 5th gen SS I tell them headers, tune, 4.10s and solid rear sub frame bushings. __________________ GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph. *Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message!*

11-09-2018, 08:27 PM	#21
Chris49066SS Drives: 2010 SS L99 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,634	You're welcome. Have had several people asking for it that couldn't find this DIY. __________________ Previous PB:11.079 @ 122.99mph.. New setup time: TBD The 11.079 pass: https://youtu.be/pz27Zq54t_E Build thread - www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555371

11-19-2018, 11:24 AM	#22
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	Last edited by zlathim; 11-22-2018 at 08:38 PM.

10-26-2019, 01:53 PM	#26
Chris49066SS Drives: 2010 SS L99 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,634	You're very welcome guys, glad to know it helped ya out! __________________ Previous PB:11.079 @ 122.99mph.. New setup time: TBD The 11.079 pass: https://youtu.be/pz27Zq54t_E Build thread - www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555371

07-20-2020, 07:49 PM	#28
xc_SS/RS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: somewhere in MD Posts: 4,883	Just used this and wanted to bump it for anyone who might need it. I froze mine for a few hours and used the torch to heat up the metal before putting them in and it seemed to help. I also did rear upper control arms bushings at the same time and was able to pop those off without removing the whole upper control arm. Took 5.5 hours total with a few breaks to cool off. Thanks Chris! __________________ 2010 2SS/RS Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53

10-29-2018, 03:13 PM	#18
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	Damn good write-up. Thank you!

09-10-2019, 05:09 AM	#23
tlamb2 WHPLSH Drives: 2010 SS Maggie,ARH,Meth,AFE Coilove Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: San Clemente ,Ca Posts: 128	The OP failed to mention that getting the old ones out is easy. But putting the rear top bushings is next to impossible without removing the whole cradle. I just did mine yesterday. And due to the alignment pin coming down from the top of the subframe that is 1.5 inches long and goes into the bushing, there was no way to get a 1inch socket in there so we used a 1-inch washer which worked but getting the top rear bushing to seat in the cradle between the subframe and cradle we had to use a 5 foot piece of metal to get enough room to squeez in the top bushing, it took hours. I just hope we did not bend anything with all the pressure we used to flex the cradle down. Now the car is all over the place when I hammer it but I assume it just needs a alignment I hope. But those rear top bushings are a major PITA.

10-23-2019, 08:05 PM	#25
Pkeen Drives: 2010 Camaro 2ss/rs, 2008 Avalanche Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Lake Pannasoffkee,Florida Posts: 246	Hi all, Excellent write up Chris, i did mine following this and went smooth. I used the BMR urethane pro bushings and didn't like the slight gap the bushings had when tight. So i pulled the steel sleeves out and shortened them 1/8" and reinstalled . that tightened them up nice , im pretty sure that made a dif. To the good.

10-27-2019, 01:14 AM	#27
tlamb2 WHPLSH Drives: 2010 SS Maggie,ARH,Meth,AFE Coilove Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: San Clemente ,Ca Posts: 128	Now it is complete thanks