01-24-2020, 02:54 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,925
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What matters is using the correct weight and having the limited slip additive. Other than that it's all pretty much the same stuff.
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01-24-2020, 05:10 PM | #16 | |
376 cubic inches of fun
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Quote:
Don't leave out the friction modifier. Yet again, you will still get the moan on sharp turns when cold. |
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01-24-2020, 06:25 PM | #17 |
Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,975
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Between this thread, YouTube and others, I was inspired to change the diff oil today. (little under 18K miles) Years ago, on my LSD GM trucks, Amsoil gear lube negated the need for any additive. Fast Fwd to 2020. I bought an Amsoil squeeze bag -HIGHLY RECOMMEND- of 75W-90 but...their blurb on the back recommended their own LS additive. Of course, the parts store that sold the oil didn’t have their additive. So I used Redline’s.
Took the ol gal on a test run and didn’t leave a trail of gears or oil. Success.
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01-24-2020, 08:20 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2010 SS A/T Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Chiefland FL
Posts: 29
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Thanks guys for all the input. I went ahead and swung by the dealership and grabbed the AC Delco and additive they recommended. Dumped and replaced, and it is gone. I really appreciate it... On a side note, dang, I knew the dealership was always the least cost effective place to shop, but between the fluid and additive I was over 40 bucks. But what the heck, ain't like it gets done once a week. As for my driving, I don't race or get too crazy too often, more daily driving stuff with slightly harder takeoffs from stop signs and such just because, how do you drive one without doing that. lol
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01-24-2020, 08:28 PM | #19 |
Camaro Addict
Drives: 2010SS/1995 Z28/2005 CTSV/2007 TBSS Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 220
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I also had this issue on my 2010 SS. The solution was to replace the axle seals and fluid as shown on PI1037E below, but depending on your build date it could also just be a software update
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01-24-2020, 10:34 PM | #20 | |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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Quote:
take shit personal much...bro? PEACE
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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01-25-2020, 02:33 AM | #21 |
GrINned & JUICEd
Drives: 15STI, 10Expy, 10 2SS/RS M6, 47KB1 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,247
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Great, certain lubes already have additive in it. Is it the correct amount for yours? They could add a bottle of additive, that would stop any howl. And for most people that just cruise around, that would be fine. But for those that really make the most of their car, it could present a problem. For those that don't know, the additive reduces friction. Too much and you won't get optimum lockup.
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01-25-2020, 08:26 AM | #22 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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sum light reading...
What are Friction Modifiers? Noria Corporation Friction modifiers and mild anti-wear agents are polar molecules added to lubricants for the purpose of minimizing light surface contacts (sliding and rolling) that may occur in a given machine design. These are also called boundary lubrication additives. Esters, natural and synthetic fatty acids as well as some solid materials such as graphite and molybdenum disulfide are used for these purposes. These molecules have a polar end (head) and an oil-soluble end (tail). Once placed into service, the polar end of the molecule finds a metal surface and attaches itself. If you could see the orientation of the molecules on the surface, it would appear something like the fibers of a carpet, with each molecule stacked vertically beside the others. As long as the frictional contact is light, these molecules provide a cushioning effect when one of the coated surfaces connects with another coated surface. If the contact is heavy, then the molecules are brushed off, eliminating any potential benefit of the additive. When the machine designer anticipates more than light surface contact (from shock loading, for instance), then the designer would select a stronger type of friction modifier characterized as an anti-wear additive. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) is a common anti-wear agent. This type of additive literally reacts with the metal surface when the reaction energy (temperature) is high enough. The reaction layer provides sacrificial surface protection. As the loading and metallic contact increase, the strength of the additive and reaction process increases. This leads to the use of sulfur-phosphorus based extreme pressure (EP) chemicals. The EP additives form organo-metallic salts on the loaded surfaces that serve as sacrificial films to protect against aggressive surface damage. There are two main types of EP additives, those that are temperature-dependent, and those that are not. The most common temperature-dependent types include boron, chlorine, phosphorus and sulfur. They are activated by reacting with the metal surface when the temperatures are elevated due to the extreme pressure. The chemical reaction between the additive and metal surface is driven by the heat produced from friction. Much like when you rub your hands together, as the metal surfaces come in contact with one another, there is heat generated by means of friction and pressure. In reacting with the metal surface, these additive types form new compounds such as iron chlorides, iron phosphides and iron sulfides (dependent upon which compound is used). The metal salts produce a chemical (soap-like) film that acts as a barrier to reduce friction, wear and metal scoring, and eliminate the possibility of welding. and since I drag the car a lot I agree that too much LSD additive can cause the rear to not lockup... l8tr PEACE
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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01-25-2020, 09:12 AM | #23 |
Transmission and rearend
I see a lot of post on here about people changing fluid in their transmission and rear end A lot. I am not a mechanic but have been driving 40+ years,many muscle cars.Although I’m not great at doing routine maintenance,never have,in those years I have owned probably 20 cars,my 2011 camaro LS,V6 it has 130,000 miles,have never had a issue with it at all,other than replacing the battery.I have had this car 6 years and it had 40,000 on it when I bought it,never changed fluid in transmission or rearend. The owners manual requires changing it at first oil after 160,000 miles,so why are people changing every other oil change,or 5,000 miles or even 50,000 miles.I guess maybe I’m lucky but I have never changed or had it done in any of my cars.I have over 30 years working in construction mostly around Asphalt plants,which you have a lot of sprockets,gear boxes and chains and belts.I have seen gear boxes run days without oil in them,and we’re fine,although it’s not exactly the same as a transmission and rear end,but both are filled with metal gears inside of them.but,in my defense,I’m never rough on my cars.
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01-25-2020, 01:04 PM | #24 | |
Those who need me got me
Drives: 2022 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Southwest, MN
Posts: 624
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Quote:
that being said, it is super easy, relatively cheap, and good preventive maintenance, so why not.
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