Coilover Install

[Axe55]

So I finally got around to installing sway bars and coilovers, and I thought I’d type up my experience with it. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures while doing the install, but I did learn a few things that I’ll share. I installed Ridetech HQ coilovers and BMR front and rear sway bars. Doing these two things at the same time made sense since you have to remove the linkages for the sway bars to install the coilovers, so it’s only 4 extra bolts to replace them. I did all the work on jack stands, only the sway bars are under the car, so not a big deal.

BMR Sway bars:
These were simple to install, the rear took 5 minutes because it slides in and out very easily, the front one takes a little more patience. I didn’t follow the instructions precisely, they say to lift the motor 2” to make room for the bar, if you’re stubborn like me, you don’t need to do that, you can wiggle it in. It is not easy, but it is possible.

Ridetech coilovers:
These were also pretty straightforward to install, however there is one thing that is not called out very clearly in the instructions and almost caused me a big problem. When I was installing the front ones, I noticed that they were assembled identically, it was not clear if there was one for the driver’s side vs. passenger’s side. In reading the instructions, there didn’t seem to be much difference, so I went ahead and installed them, the instructions do note a difference in the linkages, those I installed correctly. The install went well, no major hiccups, and I was driving around for about a week, and I started to hear some banging from the front driver’s side. I was expecting things to sound different after coilovers and sway bars, but this didn’t sound like a stiffer suspension, and it was getting louder. I finally had time to lift the car and look, and I found that I was very close to disaster.

When I got the wheel off, I saw that one of the brackets that attaches to the linkage was missing some bolts and bent (Picture attached). It was holding on by a few threads, and honestly, I was lucky that last bolt didn’t break. Upon re-reading the instructions a couple of times, there is one line that mentions the bracket is supposed to face the front of the vehicle. I checked on the passenger side, and the bracket was facing the front of the vehicle, and everything seemed ok on that side (that’s the picture I attached of it looking good).

I was able to straighten out the bracket and install it facing the front with some new bolts, it’s been about 2 weeks, so far so good. I’ve been checking on it to make sure it’s still in place, and it hasn’t moved since I changed it. But watch out for this when you’re installing, you might need to swap the bracket to the other side, so it faces the front of the vehicle.

Setting the ride height was also a pain of a process, with the car lowered, I had to roll it up onto 2x4’s to get my jack under it, jack it up, take the wheel off, adjust the height, put the wheel back on, drop it, roll it off the 2x4’s and around a little bit to make sure it had settled, and then do it again. I don’t know if anyone out there has any tricks to help you in setting the ride height, now that it’s done, I don’t plan on ever adjusting it again, lol.

I do intend to play with the rebound settings, and probably the stiffness of the sway bars, I set the sway bars to medium stiffness and the rebound soft as a starting point and then got an alignment. I’m planning to play with the rebound stiffness first, then the sway bars.

For now, I’m happy with everything. The handling is remarkably better, and I haven’t dialed in any settings yet. So far, I’ve been using it as a daily driver, I’ve never taken it to the track. After these mods though, I’d really like to see how far I can push it through a corner. It feels like it’s on rails on the street.

[VR Baron]

Yep bracket go’s on the front. Also if the endlink is attached at the back it will cause the same issue.

A question, was your front right side height adjustment Different to get even heights? On my right I had to set the perch lower by about 5/8” vs the left. My old Pedders was the same way

[Axe55]

Baron, when you say, if the endlink is attached at the back it will cause the same issue, do you see that in the pictures I posted? I re-read the instructions and the stud for the end links is supposed to be facing the front of the vehicle, the pics were from the front.

Yes, the perch height was different side to side. They were also the same way, the right side was lower but I did not measure by how much. I counted revolutions of the adjusting nut to measure how much I was going up or down.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Axe55

Baron, when you say, if the endlink is attached at the back it will cause the same issue, do you see that in the pictures I posted? I re-read the instructions and the stud for the end links is supposed to be facing the front of the vehicle, the pics were from the front.

Yes, the perch height was different side to side. They were also the same way, the right side was lower but I did not measure by how much. I counted revolutions of the adjusting nut to measure how much I was going up or down.

My bad, was turned around. You have it correct as to endlinks. On ride height difference I think we are seeing design tolerances, or possibly an attempt by GM to corner balance the car, as it is pretty good in that respect. Or to compensate for passenger weight.

For street driving I find 20 clicks from stiff on Ridetechs is as soft as you want to go, as the instructions say. Softer is just to soft and not controlled. For autocross Or corner carving Somewhere in the middle is plenty, about 10 from stiff, but You need to play with both ends to get what you like. Front rear balance , understeer or oversteer, can be tweaked with them which is nice. Same with your swaybars. Both you can play with to get the balance you like