05-11-2009, 12:03 PM | #15 |
Thank You GM
Drives: Sky Redline & Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2,876
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I will be going Mobil 1 all the way and changing every 3-5000 miles.
As for break in, 500 miles without breaking 4500 RPM or staying at any one RPM for too long. No cruise control for 1000 miles and then let her rip!
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ITS HERE! : 2010 Camaro 2SS / 6 Speed Manual (No other way) / Silver Ice Metallic / Inferno Orange Interior Accent / RS Package / Polished Wheels / SOLO MACH X CAT BACK
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05-11-2009, 01:14 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2017 ZL1, A10, White, sunroof, nav Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 720
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05-11-2009, 01:37 PM | #17 | |
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Recommended break-in:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...30&postcount=9 I can't remember how I broke in my GMC.
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Removing weight has surprisingly little effect on fuel economy
Engine break-in procedure | Gear ratios 2002 GMC Sierra 4x4 5.3 (190,000 miles and going strong) 1980 Buick Lesabre family heirloom with 36,000 miles 2008 Volkswagen Rabbit 2 door I5-2.5 5spd DD lease Quote:
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05-11-2009, 02:53 PM | #18 |
Iceman
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Im going to be replacing ALL my fluids with Royal Purple. I wish they made gasoline....
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2G1FT1EW8A9120908
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05-11-2009, 03:21 PM | #19 |
Hello!
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Keeping mine under 4K rpms (only once have I went past that and that was today with 486 miles) for the first 500 miles, change oil and then she's ready to go IMO!
Also...I've done almost all city driving...been on the highway a couple times but only for 5 - 10 miles each trip. So lots and lots of city driving and varying rpms so far...getting the recall taken care of tomorrow and oil changed with my $100 maintenance coupon! Almost time to see what this baby has... |
05-11-2009, 03:39 PM | #20 |
Drives: 260HP/242TQ Join Date: May 2009
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 707
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Are any of you swapping out the Mobil 1 the car comes with for real dino oil for your break-in period? My dealer swears that is an unnecessary and expensive undertaking. Thoughts/comments?
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05-11-2009, 05:54 PM | #21 |
INJACC
Drives: 2010 CGM 2LT/RS AUTO Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Montreal (South Shore)Quebec, Canada
Posts: 6,518
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My dealer said that I do not need to change the oil at 500 Miles...thats old school...and no breakin period either. he said since you only drive it in the summer change your oil in spring time when you take it out. So i think I`ll let my Oil indicator tell me when to change it ..
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05-11-2009, 06:23 PM | #22 | |||
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Quote:
Anyway, most modern synthetic is actually highly refined dinosaur juice. http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html Quote:
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Removing weight has surprisingly little effect on fuel economy
Engine break-in procedure | Gear ratios 2002 GMC Sierra 4x4 5.3 (190,000 miles and going strong) 1980 Buick Lesabre family heirloom with 36,000 miles 2008 Volkswagen Rabbit 2 door I5-2.5 5spd DD lease Quote:
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05-11-2009, 08:42 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,176
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05-11-2009, 08:43 PM | #24 |
Drives: 260HP/242TQ Join Date: May 2009
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 707
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"The type of fluid used during break-in is also important. You may have heard that synthetics are "too good" to use during the first miles on a new engine, and this is true. The main reason for this is the piston rings, which as we have said need time to seat to the cylinder walls properly; if they don't, horsepower and efficiency will be left on the table thanks to reduced cylinder pressures. Mark Chacon elaborates: "The ring face must have ample time to break in to the cylinder wall finish, and running a conventional oil for the first 1,500 miles or so will aid this. Ring seal needs to be firmly established before synthetic is introduced into the motor, and one of the reasons the factory LS1 has such a heck of a time with ring seal to begin with, in my view, is that many come from the factory with synthetic oil in them. Once you put synthetic in, what you've got is what you've got, and the rings may never really wear to the cylinder walls. Of course, feel free to eventually switch to synthetic because of its better properties, but make sure the rings have seated fully first; short of using a cylinder leakdown tester, mileage accumulation is the only way to tell whether this has occurred."
This is a quote from the break-in procedure referred to by you (theholycow) which recommends switching from dino oil to synthetic oil following the break-in period. That's where my question came from. |
05-11-2009, 08:55 PM | #25 |
Drives: above `12 zl1 #780 Join Date: May 2009
Location: holly-springs,nc
Posts: 197
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the only thing i've gone by the book on break-in,was a yamaha waverunner.20 hrs;the crankshaft broke into.
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05-12-2009, 07:41 AM | #26 | ||
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Quote:
If the car comes with dino oil, then I certainly wouldn't change to synth until after the break-in; but if it comes with synthetic, then the manufacturer intends for synthetic to be used during break-in.
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Removing weight has surprisingly little effect on fuel economy
Engine break-in procedure | Gear ratios 2002 GMC Sierra 4x4 5.3 (190,000 miles and going strong) 1980 Buick Lesabre family heirloom with 36,000 miles 2008 Volkswagen Rabbit 2 door I5-2.5 5spd DD lease Quote:
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06-21-2009, 12:01 PM | #27 |
My baby is here
Drives: SIM 2LT Join Date: May 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 667
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I have searched the boards for the break in of the car and found many things. What is manufacturer recommended break in period what needs to be done during. I have heard many things
- 1500 Miles in break in period. - No more than 100 MPH and no higher than 500 miles. - After 500 miles you need to do an oil change
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06-21-2009, 06:12 PM | #28 |
Drives: Z51 BABY! Join Date: May 2009
Location: LSFREE~!!!!!
Posts: 787
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Mobil1 and 3000 mile oil changes? I guess if you want to waste money...
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