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Old 05-26-2022, 10:11 AM   #141
davesnever

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andylev1 View Post
Thanks for the update. I have a 2011 Chevrolet Camaro 6.2SS. Serial number ordered, based on original key are FCC ID - V2T01060512, GM ref 13500226
Mine is 2010 V8 2SS. Is yours a convertible, mine is not? Every site I have visited to check for fobs my search results come up with the OHTO code, not the V2TO like yours. My 2017 V6 Equinox code is also OHT01060512. V2TO must be 433MHz for European models.

https://www.keylesscanada.com/pages/...olet~md_camaro

European and North American Camaros do have some very easy detectable differences. Tailights,2 piece(NA) vs. 1 piece(Euro) also side mirrors small(NA) vs. large(Euro) Picture shows both differences.
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Old 05-26-2022, 01:18 PM   #142
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Mine is an American car not European. I've just ordered another fob. On its way from the US i wonder if it'll work.
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Old 05-26-2022, 02:51 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by andylev1 View Post
Mine is an American car not European. I've just ordered another fob. On its way from the US i wonder if it'll work.
Good luck I hope it works, it's a confusing subject really. It seems everywhere you look different part numbers show up and different FCC codes as well.
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Old 06-11-2022, 11:30 AM   #144
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Well new keyfob turned up. It isn't programming in to the car. I get the security theft message anyone got any ideas ? Do I need to send it back and try another one ? This is the third one I've tried all with the same error.
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Old 06-11-2022, 02:34 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by davesnever View Post
Yes I know that but even sometimes that still is not the answer. I have received remotes in the past with the correct serial# (OHTO.....512 for my 2SS)but they do not work correctly while others do. For instance I received 3 last year that are supposedly for my 2SS and they are 5 button, correct serial, and they go through both program methods without a problem. But after they are finished programming the remote start button does not start the car, instead it pops the trunk lol. All other buttons worked but I end up with 2 trunk releases lol. Anyhow I was refunded for them and kept them as spares but there are definitely some unknown differences in fobs out there. I asked you to post source to help the OP out. Also, can you post what make, model Camaro you have and serial # you ordered? Obviously 12-13 years later people can't read those fob numbers anymore.

I understand, even with the proper alleged serial number, purchasing from outside sources can be a crap shoot. nothing is certain or guaranteed....except as they say, death, taxes and now we can add gas prices will going up daily.


as to my serial number, turns out mine wasn't as common a number for a 2012 so providing mine would not guarantee once again, you get the right one. there are different serial numbers even for the same year, at least, that is what I was told. mine wasn't easy to read but after cleaning it real good, I could make it out. hope that helps some anyway.
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Old 06-22-2022, 05:33 PM   #146
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I ordered one of these a month ago and it everything works perfectly. I ordered the 315mHz 5 button and I used one of my other keys to perform the quick copy method. The initial key I inserted when copying did not have functioning remote start but the key I inserted with this board has everything working. I only ordered the board.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3284...21ef1802dL2BJ1

Last edited by davesnever; 06-22-2022 at 05:35 PM. Reason: Added link
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Old 01-10-2023, 06:22 PM   #147
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cant let this thread die just yet, just finished switching over my original flip key circuit board over to the (key fob upgrade) and had it cut. all of the buttons worked fine but im stuck on programing, the car starts right after doing the original key then switching to the new key but while running the theft light stays on and after turning it off it will not start back up without that same process?
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Old 01-17-2023, 01:38 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by LittleRedSS10 View Post
cant let this thread die just yet, just finished switching over my original flip key circuit board over to the (key fob upgrade) and had it cut. all of the buttons worked fine but im stuck on programing, the car starts right after doing the original key then switching to the new key but while running the theft light stays on and after turning it off it will not start back up without that same process?
If you did the quick add a key method I could see it happening. I would try the full relearn of all the keys if you have not already, it takes considerably longer to do but may fix your problem.
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Old 09-16-2023, 10:03 AM   #149
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Had one key in poor shape when I purchased the car a couple weeks ago. So I purchased a new key fob on Amazon, called the local dealership who quoted me $35 to cut. Went in yesterday they asked if I wanted it programmed, I read this thread and knew it was a pretty quick process, so I agreed. $400 later !!!! End result they could not program the key I bought on Amazon and spent two hours on it. I ended up having to purchase a new key from them and was charged for two key cuts and then the labor. I fought back, they brought in a manager who said the charges are correct. On top of this, when I got home, I noticed a black tar spot on my convertible roof that I swear wasn't there before (its really noticeable) I'm going to call on Monday but I don't have high hopes.
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Old 11-03-2023, 09:07 PM   #150
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In regards to my 2010 Synergy beast, it came with two fobs and separate Chevy keys (no key blades) on key rings. I purchased a Strattec unit online from a GM dealership (it's supposed to be an OEM unit), and naturally it isn't working with the quickie programming route. This isn't a problem, as I can take the beast in and get it programmed to the car eventually, but I'm curious, is this quick-program trick using key blades/keys or the fobs themselves?
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Old 11-04-2023, 05:09 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unaf-Ford-able View Post
In regards to my 2010 Synergy beast, it came with two fobs and separate Chevy keys (no key blades) on key rings. I purchased a Strattec unit online from a GM dealership (it's supposed to be an OEM unit), and naturally it isn't working with the quickie programming route. This isn't a problem, as I can take the beast in and get it programmed to the car eventually, but I'm curious, is this quick-program trick using key blades/keys or the fobs themselves?
I believe the keys themselves, if they are separate as they do when the key recall was done to them. The keys have the chip in the plastic top part. The FOB only controls the doors, trunk and alarm.. If I'm not correct, someone will chime in, I'm sure.
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Old 11-05-2023, 12:34 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
I believe the keys themselves, if they are separate as they do when the key recall was done to them. The keys have the chip in the plastic top part. The FOB only controls the doors, trunk and alarm.. If I'm not correct, someone will chime in, I'm sure.
Yes there is a chip in the plastic key holder. But you can remove just the key and re-install it in the original fob and it will work. See this thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=369302&page=3

You can also install a separated key into a non-original/after market fob but it will have to be reprogrammed.

Last edited by camguynj; 11-05-2023 at 12:52 AM.
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Old 11-05-2023, 01:49 AM   #153
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Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
You can also install a separated key into a non-original/after market fob but it will have to be reprogrammed.
That's exactly what I was thinking.
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Old 11-29-2023, 07:18 AM   #154
davesnever

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unaf-Ford-able View Post
In regards to my 2010 Synergy beast, it came with two fobs and separate Chevy keys (no key blades) on key rings. I purchased a Strattec unit online from a GM dealership (it's supposed to be an OEM unit), and naturally it isn't working with the quickie programming route. This isn't a problem, as I can take the beast in and get it programmed to the car eventually, but I'm curious, is this quick-program trick using key blades/keys or the fobs themselves?
The quick add a key method I had used was with the switchblade FOB. This is my original key and never went in for the recall. In my case when purchasing a new FOB I had the option of removing the cut blade from the old FOB by opening the FOB itself or by punching out the roll pin in the blade and swapping it into the new FOB. Either way will work but of course the FOB still needs programming. You can use the add a key(quick) or full relearn(all keys) methods. The add a key method will only let you add a predetermined amount of keys.
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