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Old 04-27-2019, 07:08 AM   #15
stevieturbo

 
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Needs a much shorter belt at least
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:54 AM   #16
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Report back....

Put the shortest belt on possible. Still was getting belt slap

Switched to a different tensioner that swings opposite and added an additional idler to see if I can get it fixed
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:59 AM   #17
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Quite a tight belt path there for the tensioner to operate on. But a decent looking setup.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:23 AM   #18
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Seen it off a post on her for a z28 with a Whipple. I have loosened the tension some since this picture. Driving has been fine. Going to make a pull later today to see how it works out.
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Old 07-12-2019, 12:11 PM   #19
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Loosening tension would serve no purpose.
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:42 PM   #20
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I had it super tight, were the belt barely even fit and one pull snapped the HD green belt straight across
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:27 PM   #21
Vanishing Point
 
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My woman has been a bad girl.

I think I’m going to give her a Whipple Belt Slapping...
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:37 PM   #22
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Belt slap

That belt slap means you have a point somewhere that the Belt is trying to jump the pulley.. I have Changed and Changed and finally got it... 12 - 10 rib belts later. :(
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Old 07-15-2019, 10:30 AM   #23
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Yes Icedog viewed your build thread and built my tensioner set up off of yours. No more belt hitting each other. I have only taken my set up to 5K and about 10 lbs. So far so good.
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Old 07-22-2019, 03:16 PM   #24
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Which tensioner did you get that swings clockwise? Did you just drill into your bracket to add the extra idler?
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRyder View Post
Which tensioner did you get that swings clockwise? Did you just drill into your bracket to add the extra idler?

It is a Dayco 89438.

I used the existing hole and put in a longer bolt
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:10 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4U2NV-SS View Post
It is a Dayco 89438.

I used the existing hole and put in a longer bolt
Thanks, I might have to try out this belt path in the future.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:16 PM   #27
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I have been going through this for a year now, and I think I have just got it sorted.

Firstly I had a misalignment issue with one of the idlers in the Innovators West 8 rib kit (they now supply them with bushes to fix this), then I cracked the mounting hole for one of the idlers in the alternator bracket, then I had a faulty idler ... once I got everything aligned, I was still getting belt slap.


FYI, I am running a 10% OD and 3.5" pulley


Here's what I have learned:

In my case, this is not the belt on the tensioner going across and touching the belt on the idler ... It gets close, but doesn't quite touch. It is the tensioner running out of travel so the belt becomes loose on the low side of the engine and derails slightly ... then when the tensioner pulls tight again, one or two of the ribs are running off the pulleys, which shreds the edge of the belt.

Here's the fix.:

1. Removing the top idler will not make a difference ... if it adjusted all the way to the right, the tensioner does not not touch it anyway ... so why remove it and create less wrap-around on the blower pulley?

2. Use the Gates HD belt .. the standard ones stretch too much.

3. Use the shortest belt possible ... I had been using the K080962HD but I could not get the idlers tight enough so that the tensioner maintained enough travel, so I now have the K080956HD. This belt is perfect ... short enough that I have to loosen off the bolts on the idlers so they tilt and then force it onto the water pump.

4. Use a breaker bar and ratchet strap off the driver's side strut tower to pull the tensioner to its fully tightened position ... it should not even be touching the belt at this stage.

5. Get the ribbed idler below the tensioner as tight as you possibly can ... You can use something like a rubber handle of a hammer between the water pump pulley to push against the idler to tighten it (GENTLY) ... and make sure you use a piece of thick rubber or old serpentine belt over the pulley to protect the ribs.

6. Release and remove the ratchet strap, start the car, run it for a while ... the belt will stretch.

7. Replace and re-tighten the ratchet strap, and then re-tension the idler.

The tensioner should be as close to its far clockwise position as possible, with the right side bump stop approx 1/2" from the end and the other side having approx 1-3/4" of travel. That will mean that the tensioner has approx 80% of its travel to keep the belt tight.

I like the idea of the apposing tensioner, however if it runs out of travel in the opposite direction, it will just do exactly the same thing ... the belt will get loose and shred.

I hope this helps anyone who is having similar issues.


See the gap between the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley



This shows just how far clockwise that the tensioner is pulled ... with nearly 1-3/4" of circular travel before it runs out of movement.

Last edited by TheBracketeer; 07-29-2019 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:12 PM   #28
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Good info... I feel your pain almost the same issue here.
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