Camaro SS Bandit Conversion

[trashbasket]

yesss, do it. This thing is bitchn. Good work, can't wait to see it completed.

[NoDakZ/28]

The progress on the project is just plain awesome, great work. Can't wait to see this conversion buttoned up!

[hesster]

Appreciate all of the positive comments as the build progresses. I have put a few posts out on the build on other Camaro Web Sites, and yes, there are haters for doing a mod like this. But for one "hater" there are 400 likes. So there.

Since car is mostly assembled, I am getting preparations in place for paint, and I can't wait to get started. Our MI weather is all over the place - 60 one day, and 30 deg the next. But warmer weather is coming, and want to be ready.

But - decided to make a change which will require a few excursions for fittment.

Decided to do a HALO Reverse Tilt Hood Kit, as I think that would be the way to go to better present the Hood Bird at at Car Shows. This is a risk as the Kit is for a stock Hood, and the Kit's Hood is a little more pointed at the nose after doing a trace check from the Stock Hood. I figure all of the Conversion Outfits like TA Depot, TA Florida, TA Worldwide, etc all do them so hoping it should work. Parts are on the way, and will document that install.
Then I can do a tear down on the Front End.

Although the Shaker Scoop was mocked up, I needed to finish it so I can Paint the Scoop and Engine Cover. I opened up the ~4" entry hole in the CAI housing to allow for a gasket to seal better around the intake pipe, and then installed a few screws to secure the Flapper Gate to the Scoop. I have a loop of tension wire that holds the Flapper closed, but allows it to open under intake Vacuum (I ma hoping). It is that weird thing in one of the pics - yeah maybe laugh a little but I need an alternative to a vacuum actuated solenoid. The PMD/Woodward Speed Shop owner told me they stopped including this as a option in the Kit due to reliability issues, that I understand.

I was able to bend the Positive Battery Post out of the way to allow clearance to the Intake Pipe. The Intake Pipe Coupling is secured to the Stock Intake Box Stud, that just happend to be in the right place to route through a hole I drilled into the bottom of the Coupler and it is secured with a flanged nut.

Now on to the paint plans for the Grills and Extractors.
There is a Arrow Emblem that needs to be painted to look like the one from Pontiac. For the Grills, the Lower will be Gloss Black, and the Upper will be like it is called out in the Pic. The Fender Extractors will be Black with the Mesh Gold, and same for the Quarter Panel Scoops.

Finally I have a semi used roll of Phoenix Graphics Gold Stripe Tape left over from my Bandit and held it on the Side Mirror to get a look. Still noodling over if I want to buy a Premolded SE kit from PG and cut them up to fit, or Paint them on which is much more difficult and intensive - that could go sideways with tape bleed thru, delamination when removing tape, runs, etc. I think I am going to buy the custom Bird from DaVinci Wrap Masters that I previously posted, and then see how well the PG Gold Stripe Tape matches the Gold in the Hood Bird. That will give me a better idea.

[hesster]

Some Led's.
Side extactors.
Intake tube polished and ready to go.

[hesster]

Sometimes things just do not work out - like the Halo Reverse Tilt Hood Kit.

Beffore the install, I documented all shims, fasteners, and bolt head positions before proceeding in case we needed to undo the install - that was a good move as I found out.

The instructions called for cutting the Upper Radiator Support to clear the Hinge Arm, and mounting the new Hinge where the old one was. No problem.

We then mounted the Hinge and saw that it would not clear the nose of the new Fascia when swinging open. It did not take long to realize with the Hood mounted to the Hinge Plate that the Hood would likewise not clear the Fascia.

We were analyzing WHY, because doing a profile check of the front of the OEM Hood and the new Hood that they were basically the same.

So I pulled the OEM Fascai down off the storage rack and held it up against the New Fascia and there it was - the New Fascia is 3/4" higher at the Nose than the OEM Fascia, and yep, that is enough to cause the interference when tilting the Hinge Plate/Hood open.

We considered hacking up the Hinge Plate for clearance but that would not make a difference with the Hood mounted to it. And then I own it and can't return it.

So everything came off, called PhasTek to return it, and boxed it up to ship it back. We were careful not to damage anything which would compromise being able to return it. It is EXPENSIVE, but a well made kit. I will gladly eat the 15% restocking fee. I orderd a new Radiator Support Cover to replace the one I hacked up.

We reinstalled the Hood, Latch, and assorted hardware, and had to tweak the fits all over again. This made me realize reassembly will require plenty of protective tape and caution when we fit all the Painted Panels, as the panels have no "memory" even though we put the exact number of shims back and all bolt head positions were scribed with a white marker.

So that sucked, cause I really liked the Reverse Hood Tilt idea, and although the PhasTek kit did not work, maybe there are other kits out there, since the Conversion Companies all have Tilt Hoods. BUT their Fascia profiles are probably different.

Meanwhile there is plenty of other stuff to do.

[hesster]

Haven't posted in a while but not like I'm slacking. Just busy with other stuff that has to get done around the house and yard.

After the Tilt Hood fiasco, I had to refit the front end panels and Hood, as when you loosen up the Fenders it all moves.
So not gonna repost a bunch of gap and flush pics again, but got it all sorted out and documented all shims and bolt positions again. Will use Black Button Head 10mm Bolts during final assembly for appearance.

And then tore it down for Paint - sad because I really liked looking at it.

Got my new Rad Support Cover from Rock Auto and installed it.
Bolt Heads were all scribed with a white marker and scratch awl for position reference. You can see how much I had to slot some of the Fender attachments to close the gaps to the Hood.

Completed the LED install and wiring, that was involved. I have the Halo's and Fogs of course, but also have Blue Leds in the Fender Well's where the Side Extractors are, under the Cowl at the Firewall, on the Front Bumper Support, inside the CAI, and inside the Shaker Scoop. Once it is wired and tested, all the wiring is taped up and hid as best as possible. And yes, the Fogs will not go in the Engine Bay as shown in the Pics, cause the Front Fascia is off of course.

The Halo's and Fogs are controlled by their own PB Switch, and all Blue LED's, including the Halo Inner Ring, is controlled by it's own PB Switch. Blue can get you a ticket so I separate them.

I have done this wiring before on the "Beast" Camaro, and like using PB Switchs tied to a Relay to activate everything. The PB switch simply carries a small 12v load to trigger the Relay, which switchs and transfers the much larger 12v load from the Battery. This eliminates all the power surging through the Switch itself, lets the Relays carry the power load, and adds reliability.

It is a maze of wiring of course, but everything is tested with a 9v Battery to ensure fuctionality.

Next is to mount the PB Switchs on the Center Console, and install the independent Odyssey Battery in the Trunk with a quick charge port.

[hesster]

Finished up the LED's wiring inside the car to the Console and in the Trunk.

A maze of wires, but it works great. I have one PB Switch for just the Amber Halo's and Fogs, one for all the Blue Leds including the Inner Halo Ring, and one for the Under Car LED's which was installed by the previous owner. I always sketch out the wiring circuitry before starting so I can just follow it as I go, and not mix wires up.

Again - Fuses and Relay's on all circuits, all connections secured with shrink tubing, and redundant Grounds. Hook it all up, test it, then tuck it away neatly, and reinstall the Trim Panels.

Then I installed the Odyssey Battery in the Trunk, and added a charge port shown in the lower left of the last photo. I will final secure it with the bracket and a zip tie after I install the Rear Fascia as I need to keep the inner covers off for access to flush out the Fascia to the Rear Quarters.

The Odyssey Battery is a powerhouse, and holds a charge for a long time, certainly for the duration of a all day Car Show. No worries of draining the Vehicle Battery with this set-up, been there before and our cars do not like low voltage. I always keep a charger on it and it lasts forever.

On to more pleasant and fun things, as wiring can be maddening and problematic if not done correctly.

[hesster]

Catch Can Install

Had a Moroso CC left over from a previous build, andf installed it.

It looks like a quality unit after opeming it up. First thing was to polish everything, and determine the space it needed to be in. So fabricarted the brackets, and sized the spacers required to mount it.
Pulled off the Stock PVC line and plumbed in the 3/8" hose with clamps.

Good to go.

[hesster]

Ordered my custom "DaVinci Wrap Masters" Hood Bird and a few "Trans Am" and Sail panel decals that come with it, and wouldn't you know USPS can't deliver anything here without crushing the box, or in this case the shipping Tube. It was left on the door step, so I didn't see it until later. Then they have the Balls to say it was "received in damaged condition" - like they don't really care.

So the Hood Bird is wrinkled, and have to ship it back for replacement. Not gonna settle for less than perfect on this.

Meanwhile, got the Barn sectioned off for painting. Used simple heavy duty Clear Polyethylene Drop Cloths, 10' x 25', and bought a roll of 1 Inch x 82 Feet Hook and Loop Tape Sticky Back Fastener Roll. The adhesive is super strong and sticks well to the Poly and wood, so the whole thing can be removed and reused when needed.

I had previously sealed off the rafter section with poly and attached it with staples and silicone caulk.

Layed it out on the floor, cut the length to size, applied the one side of the receiver tape to the roof and side 2x4's, and the Hook side of the Tape Roll to the Poly, and just pressed the sheets on. Made a overlapping 4' section for a "door" in the middle. Will cannect the bottom to 2x4's with more Hook and Loop Tape.

Should be close to air tight as possible, at least it will contain the overspray well. Simple and effective, and will use a number of Box Fans at the bottom of the Barn's Overhead Doors, and furnace filters in the side Windows for clean intake air.

Plenty of space to paint a whole car, or all the panels.

Next is to build Paint holding fixtures for the Hood and Fascias.

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

Originally Posted by hesster

Ordered my custom "DaVinci Wrap Masters" Hood Bird and a few "Trans Am" and Sail panel decals that come with it, and wouldn't you know USPS can't deliver anything here without crushing the box, or in this case the shipping Tube. It was left on the door step, so I didn't see it until later. Then they have the Balls to say it was "received in damaged condition" - like they don't really care.

So the Hood Bird is wrinkled, and have to ship it back for replacement. Not gonna settle for less than perfect on this.

Meanwhile, got the Barn sectioned off for painting. Used simple heavy duty Clear Polyethylene Drop Cloths, 10' x 25', and bought a roll of 1 Inch x 82 Feet Hook and Loop Tape Sticky Back Fastener Roll. The adhesive is super strong and sticks well to the Poly and wood, so the whole thing can be removed and reused when needed.

I had previously sealed off the rafter section with poly and attached it with staples and silicone caulk.

Layed it out on the floor, cut the length to size, applied the one side of the receiver tape to the roof and side 2x4's, and the Hook side of the Tape Roll to the Poly, and just pressed the sheets on. Made a overlapping 4' section for a "door" in the middle. Will cannect the bottom to 2x4's with more Hook and Loop Tape.

Should be close to air tight as possible, at least it will contain the overspray well. Simple and effective, and will use a number of Box Fans at the bottom of the Barn's Overhead Doors, and furnace filters in the side Windows for clean intake air.

Plenty of space to paint a whole car, or all the panels.

Next is to build Paint holding fixtures for the Hood and Fascias.

I like the way you tarped off the space... Is this a wooden barn with a metal roof by chance? I'd love to insulate my roof of my barn in a similar way, but I feel like the foam would just trap moisture and cause rot.

Either way, pretty slick way to turn your space into a paint booth.

[hesster]

Originally Posted by The_bald_eagle_machine

I like the way you tarped off the space... Is this a wooden barn with a metal roof by chance? I'd love to insulate my roof of my barn in a similar way, but I feel like the foam would just trap moisture and cause rot.

Either way, pretty slick way to turn your space into a paint booth.

Thanks. It is a new 30x50 Pole Barn, Metal Siding and Roof, and Sprayfoamed. So it is very well insulated, and contrary to what one would think, it is so well sealed up there is no condensation. That is what the Sprayfoam Guy's recommended to do, so it is almost airtight.

One side is Party, one side is for Wrenching on Cars.

[yodaslim]

That's a nice setup you got there!

[hesster]

Built Front and Rear Fascia Paint Panel fixtures with some old 2x4's and mattress topper memory foam. Should do the trick for positioning the parts horziontally for painting, which is best for applying the paint and letting it flow.

Can also prob use these for the Fenders, everything else like the Hood and Trim stuff will be on a table or hung from the rafters.

[hesster]

Tires and Wheels for the Bandit Project -
Struggling with which style "Snowflake" Wheels to purchase, and what size would be best. Been researching the Forum on Wheel/Tire combos, and yes indeed recommendations are all over the spectrum. PM'd a few members for advice.

First, as for SNOWFLAKE 20" Wheel Sources, there are a few out there, and I am posting the (4) types I have found. They are all custom made, and very expensive, so they HAVE to fit and clear the Brembro Brakes, cause they are not returnable. Feel free to comment on which you like best!

Pic 1 - Buford T
Pic 2 - Pro Wheels
Pic 3 - Resto Mod
Pic 4 - Forgeline TA3

Wheel size can be 9" wide all corners, 10" wide all corners, or staggered combos of 9"F/10"R, or the widest 10"F/11"R. I think +35 offsets on all of these would be correct and work - it is critical to get this right?

The "Resto Mod" wheels are just like the old Year One Billet 2 pc style they used to offer, and which I currently have on my Trans Am.

Tires would be 245/45 or 275/40 in the front, and 275/40 or 315/35 Rear, source (manufacturer) TBD, but probably a Summer Tire, no drag stuff.

I gotta get this right, cause it is a very big price ticket and no going back.