[Keko]

Sorry for another throttle thread, but I did lots of searching and never found exactly what I will describe. I know there are plenty of threads on this topic, but most I found were from 2017-2018, and were more about matting the throttle, driving more aggressive, or the throttle when engaging from a stop in 1st gear. Didn't see anything about hesitation after a low RPM shift.

I haven't had the car very long but I started noticing a weird hesitation after shifting - specifically at low RPM and low throttle. Something like shifting at 1800 RPM and then giving it maybe 5 or 10% throttle. It seems to feel really numb, and then kind of "surges" up to where I except the throttle to be. It's a really minor effect because this is at 10% throttle at the most. So it's not like the car is stumbling or surging in an extreme way, it just seems kind of odd. It feels like the effect is more pronounced in Sport mode, so I am thinking it's just part of the tune?

I recently put a Rotofab CAI on then I started noticing this small hesitation. It could have been there before the intake, but maybe I didn't notice it? I am kind of kicking myself because I should have driven it more before modding, even though it's just an intake. I did unplug the battery during intake install so it relearns the trims. I only have about 1300 miles on the car, but 1100 or so were bone stock. I went for a drive tonight and tried to monitor LTFT with my janky ass bluetooth thing, and it was mostly around -6, so it seems fine. Occasionally it would be upwards of -11 at idle/decel.


Anyone else with a M6 ZL1 have any feedback? Hopefully I am describing something completely normal.

[Kamero6]

I'd go back to the stock intake. It is alredy Cold air.

Maf sensor can be affected by it, and you will feel it the most under light load than full throttle.

[SFV1LE]

I don't think people get the RF for "cold air", although it's a great box design that isolates the filter. The RF cone filter design provides more potential airflow than the box. I had an RF intake for awhile and liked it, my car was fast and you could really hear the SC. I returned it to stock when I thought I might be going in for warranty service, and then added a green filter, and I've never reinstalled the RF. Saving it for the day my warranty expires and I may finally get an E85 tune and other mods.

[Keko]

Yeah, the intake was more for s/c sound, not performance. It would be a pain in the ass to put the stock intake back on just for testing because of the breather tube. Was hoping to get some feedback before going down that route

[ctrlz]

Is this behavior the same at both cold start and when the car is fully warmed? The difference is open vs. closed loop. In open loop the car is ignoring a lot of the sensors.
I know it is late July as I type this and these cars don't stay in open loop very long this time of year.

[hawk02]

My question to the OP is why are you shifting at 1800 rpm? Under normal street driving I shift between 2500 and 4000 RPM.

[FarmerFran]

^^ Like above, yes run it out a little more. This car does 62mph in 1st gear. It is no nanny car.

[Kamero6]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

I don't think people get the RF for "cold air", although it's a great box design that isolates the filter. The RF cone filter design provides more potential airflow than the box. I had an RF intake for awhile and liked it, my car was fast and you could really hear the SC. I returned it to stock when I thought I might be going in for warranty service, and then added a green filter, and I've never reinstalled the RF. Saving it for the day my warranty expires and I may finally get an E85 tune and other mods.

It's been tested that the Conic filters don't improve performance, but let dirt and dust get into the engine, affecting performance by wearing cylinder walls and valve seats.
They also get dirt on the MAF sensors causing small failures like this, where dirt will throw values off not enough to trow a code, but still get some kind of malfunction.

Also the fact that they are washable is a joke. If you get a paper filter wet you need to replace it, it won't flow anymore.

I know everybody loves them and its one of the most popular mods. But credit card debt is also popular and everybody has it. That doesn't make it good.

As you can see, I don't like aftermarket CAI's

[jjgi5150]

Hi all,

The factory conical dry filter on my ‘15 Z/28 worked very well and it did have a nice howl under full throttle. I never had any issues with the factory filter. Yes it was a N/A motor and was very well tuned in stock format.

My stock ‘18 ZLE was a big difference. It had off idle, low speed throttle issues from day one. I added the Mamo TB and a green filter and it improved some, but was never completely right. I’m convinced it was the factory engine ECU tune, since my new ‘22 ZLE has had no similar issues. The off idle and low speed performance on the ‘22 ZLE is excellent. I only added a green filter again because they are practical in the dust of AZ where their gauze can be cleaned and reused pretty much for the life of the car.

OP, good luck with your issues.

JJ

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Kamero6

It's been tested that the Conic filters don't improve performance, but let dirt and dust get into the engine, affecting performance by wearing cylinder walls and valve seats.
They also get dirt on the MAF sensors causing small failures like this, where dirt will throw values off not enough to trow a code, but still get some kind of malfunction.

Also the fact that they are washable is a joke. If you get a paper filter wet you need to replace it, it won't flow anymore.

I know everybody loves them and its one of the most popular mods. But credit card debt is also popular and everybody has it. That doesn't make it good.

As you can see, I don't like aftermarket CAI's

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Have you tried switching drive modes? My car feels very different depending on what mode I'm in. EX: In touring, more throttle input is needed after a gear change. In Track mode, I can essentially shift gears without giving the car any additional throttle input. Not sure if this is what you are referring to, but just something I have noticed. I wouldn't really consider it a hesitation, but it does feel different.

[radz28]

I'd start with trying the different modes, as suggested.

If it does change, it's probably just the way the torque model (Driver Demand, specifically) was calibrated. That way, that little 1740, with it's hard-hitting torque down low, doesn't make the throttle too twitchy at low pedal inputs. Making it too twitchy could be tricky for some drivers in slippery-type-weather, especially in making turns, for example.