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Old 06-29-2018, 04:09 PM   #1
LCPLPunk
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What should I replace when doing rear shocks?

Hey guys,

So I have 1LE rear shocks to go on and I need to know what else I should replace while i'm there. I did my fronts a month ago and the strut mounts and rear isolators were shot. Should I replace the rear shock mounts?

I'm going to replace the isolators anyway because my front ones were garbage and I'm sure the rears are the same.
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:28 PM   #2
olblue75


 
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There is a specific 1LE upper shock mount.
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Old 06-30-2018, 06:39 AM   #3
LCPLPunk
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Ya, and I was going to buy them, but one is $35 and the other is like $70. I just decided to replace with new stockers since my car is now 8 years old and has 66k miles.
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R2C CAI / Apex Scoop / VMAX Ported TB / Speed Engineering LTHs / X-pipe / GPI port/rod-mod intake manifold / Circle D 3200 278mm Converter / 3.91 gears / DynoSteve tuned / 1LE Shocks/Struts/Toe Links / ZL1 Rear Sway Bar / Z/28 Trailing arms / Prothane Radius Arm & Subframe Bushings / BMR UCA Bracket, Steering rack bushing / B&M Tranny Cooler / RX Catch Can / Jannetty Tranny Dipstick / 2012+ Heater Hose / 2013+ Rearview Mirror / Fuel rail flip / Drake shifter / Oil Cooler Delete
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Old 09-17-2020, 12:36 PM   #4
Moeman
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Sorry to open older thread, but this is exactly what I need to know.
Going to replace my Stock rear shocks with Bilstein B6's.

Do I also need to get new shock mounts, or different shock mounts, or are the stock original ones good to go? Can't find a clear answer.

Car has 1.25" BMR lowering springs, Toe links, Trailing arms, and Cradle bushings, trailing arm bushings.

Car has 90K miles and is tracked 5 to 8 days a year.
TIA.
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Old 09-17-2020, 04:21 PM   #5
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If you are gonna do it, do it right. When I did my fronts I thought I could get by and then when I pulled everything apart I realized my donut isolators were shot. I didn't have time to wait for parts so I had to put it all back together...and then the next week take it all back apart again when i got the parts in.
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:09 PM   #6
Moeman
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Thanks for the reply.
Donuts on the Front struts ? kinda figured those would be shot after 5 years and 89K miles.

What about the rear? Is there a mount that needs to be replaced when going back in with something other than Regular FE4 SS shocks? It is not an 1LE or a ZL1. Have read way too many threads and have gotten confused. Sorry.
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ARH Full exhaust w/ HF cats
CAI Cold Air Intake w/ scoop,
Gears 3.73
BMR 1.25 inch lowering springs, Trailing Arms, Toe Links, Cradle and offset Diff Bushings,
Bilstein Struts, front and rear
ZL1 rear Diffuser, Rocker Panels, 1LE Front Splitter
Z28 High Wing Rear Spoiler,
Tuned by DynoSteve
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:23 PM   #7
LCPLPunk
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Yep, they are these round thingies in the front that look like donuts, mine were crumbling.


Honestly, I can't remember if I replaced the ones in the rear. If i did, I just went with the stock SS ones.
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R2C CAI / Apex Scoop / VMAX Ported TB / Speed Engineering LTHs / X-pipe / GPI port/rod-mod intake manifold / Circle D 3200 278mm Converter / 3.91 gears / DynoSteve tuned / 1LE Shocks/Struts/Toe Links / ZL1 Rear Sway Bar / Z/28 Trailing arms / Prothane Radius Arm & Subframe Bushings / BMR UCA Bracket, Steering rack bushing / B&M Tranny Cooler / RX Catch Can / Jannetty Tranny Dipstick / 2012+ Heater Hose / 2013+ Rearview Mirror / Fuel rail flip / Drake shifter / Oil Cooler Delete
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:52 PM   #8
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The rear shock mounts don't need to be replaced. A stiffer mount will provide more stability but also put a bit more stress on the shock shaft and potentially wear out the shock faster. If you're going with Bilstein's I'd keep the factory mounts as they were built for use with the factory mounts, or since you track the car and if you're willing to potentially sacrifice a bit of life out of the shocks maybe try the 1LE or even Z28 mounts.
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Old 09-18-2020, 03:49 AM   #9
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1LE mounts are the way to go they are a bit stiffer and if I remember correctly they don’t have voids like a SS Mount.
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