Can't improve my 60ft..... why?

[John_C]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Let me look up my fan settings and I'll post them here.

3200 stall is a start...

Yeah I tend to cool my car off for at least 30 minutes, can be longer.

I'd like to see it as well.

Who sells the 160 stats online?

[Bo White]

SLP

[WoodBoss]

Originally Posted by John_C

I'd like to see it as well.

Who sells the 160 stats online?

RDP Store (DynoSteve), SLP, Summit, they are pretty common.

[209camaross]

So I put on a 160 Lingenfelter thermostat and it does cool off the car more than the stock one but only when driving without stopping.... it keeps it around 175-180 which the stock would keep it at 190-195 but when the car comes to a stop, it rises up to 200-205 the stock stat would keep it at that range too... as for a bigger stall I can't afford another one right now.. I just got my car retuned for ported heads and e85, that's like my 4th dyno tune( little over $1400 on just tunes lol)

[acammer]

Originally Posted by 209camaross

So I put on a 160 Lingenfelter thermostat and it does cool off the car more than the stock one but only when driving without stopping.... it keeps it around 175-180 which the stock would keep it at 190-195 but when the car comes to a stop, it rises up to 200-205 the stock stat would keep it at that range too... as for a bigger stall I can't afford another one right now.. I just got my car retuned for ported heads and e85, that's like my 4th dyno tune( little over $1400 on just tunes lol)

The T-Stat will require adjusting your fan tuning to take advantage of it. You'll want those fans to come on at a lower temp. If you've already done some tuning I would ask your tuner to make the change for you, it's a quick and easy adjustment - no dyno time or anything like that.

[209camaross]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Let me look up my fan settings and I'll post them here.

3200 stall is a start...

Yeah I tend to cool my car off for at least 30 minutes, can be longer.

Yea I might have left the car cool down for maybe 10 min with the hood open... it's been over 90 degrees every day this past month out here in California so waiting to go back on a cooler day

[209camaross]

Originally Posted by acammer

The T-Stat will require adjusting your fan tuning to take advantage of it. You'll want those fans to come on at a lower temp. If you've already done some tuning I would ask your tuner to make the change for you, it's a quick and easy adjustment - no dyno time or anything like that.

Ok I'll see what my tuner says

[jrhagen]

I'm stuck at 1.50, can't seem to break into the 1.4x. I have been told I have maxed out the capabilities of the slicks. I've ordered a set of MT ET Street Rs. I hope they will do the trick for me.

[scv_guy]

Originally Posted by 209camaross

Yea I might have left the car cool down for maybe 10 min with the hood open... it's been over 90 degrees every day this past month out here in California so waiting to go back on a cooler day

Anyone have the fan setting?

[WoodBoss]

My car sitting in the sun in 90+ degrees stays at 185*-187* no higher, make sure you have all the air out of the system, I fill the system from the top radiator hose and let it run then squeeze the lower radiator hose to get the bubbles out. Air makes it run hotter than it should while at idle.

[Pro Stock John]

Once our coolant temps get over a certain value, the computer starts to reduce timing at WOT. So you'll leave on less timing. Same is true for IATs.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Once our coolant temps get over a certain value, the computer starts to reduce timing at WOT. So you'll leave on less timing. Same is true for IATs.

On a stock 2010 SS/LS3 you lose up to ~2 degrees once you're over 212*F ECT - even more if you go over 230*F (there is an RPM based multiplier - it kills the low/mid 1500-2500 the most, then lets some back in on the top end).

The real killer is IAT which starts knocking out timing at 77*F of intake temp at ~1.5* all that way up to ~10* out at 167*F.

On top of all that temperature based timing retard, you have the potential for knock retard - which rising with ECT and IAT temp.

This is why a cooler running t-stat and fan tuning becomes crucial for repeatable drag strip performance. I use my car as an example - it runs the same trap speed very consistently, which is a good indicator that the power never waivers, even in the 80*F ambient temps. The 160*F T-stat I have goes a long way to helping that. So does fan tuning, mine come on low whenever the car is running. It's sub-optimal for fan life, but it keeps the temps rock solid.

Also, you can do a lot of things at the track to help control your temps. If you're not moving, your hood should be open to let out as much heat as possible. Also, running your heat on high when the moving up the staging lanes is another way to help pull some heat away from the motor. It all adds up.

[1BadLS]

My guess is your issue is a suspension problem. Adjustable coil overs or shocks Will help you dramatically. You can tighten up the rear shocks so your car squats less. Loosen up the front shocks all the way. I would also recommend disconnecting or removing your front sway bar.

I don't have a fifth gen, but these are all things I've had to learn on my 1998 Z28.

My best 60' is 1.2454

[Pro Stock John]

Depending on OP's brand of DRs, and track prep, should be able to go deep into the 1.5s, and some folks been low 1.4s too. But I agree adjustable shocks are nice.