Want to engine swap. LS7 or LSX better option?

[Unavowed]

Originally Posted by ChargedCamaro

I have the lsx376 and a Maggie. I'm pushing 10.5 psi with every bolt on mod and putting down 600 rwhp, if you are looking to go more then that I would do a procharger or vortech. If I want to up the power/boost I have to get a 8 rib and upgrade injectors again!

Auto or manual? What is your compression ratio and pulley sizes? What injectors do you have now? Seems you left a lot on the table. There are plenty of guys with maggies between 650-800 rwhp WITHOUT LSX blocks.

[Unavowed]

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

Not when you have 18psi and nitrous, I talked to the best engine builders in the business before I went for a sub 9:1 CR, it's the best CR for a dual power

That does change things, but begs the question: How does it drive out of boost and off the spray, especially at your altitude? For a track only car it may make sense, but for a dd or even a weekend warrior it is far from ideal. How much time will the car actually spend at 18psi and spraying?

[Unavowed]

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

The aluminum GM blocks have too thin of a cylinder wall for more than 10psi in my opinion. Compression is spot on, I run 8.75:1, it's just a better and safer way to run.

Originally Posted by ChargedCamaro

Your right, the Maggie is not a ideal blower for the lsx376 motor

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264038
Here is a thread I started a few months back. Great info about compression and maggies, etc.

[ChargedCamaro]

Originally Posted by Unavowed

Auto or manual? What is your compression ratio and pulley sizes? What injectors do you have now? Seems you left a lot on the table. There are plenty of guys with maggies between 650-800 rwhp WITHOUT LSX blocks.

I'm a M6, CR is 9:1. The problem is it takes a lot more boost at 9:1 then it does at 11:1 to make power and once you get to 10-11 psi you start running into a lot of belt slip

[Unavowed]

Exactly. That's why I went with 10.1:1. I don't want to run cogs either, so I tried to figure out max boost without cogs, without belt slip, then work back into compression.

[2SS45th]

She's a track car, sure it'll drive on the street, but what's the point if I will just light them up at quarter throttle. For a track setup, it is perfect, but not for everybody I'm sure. So, it will spend 85% of the time at full tilt, and will be trailered everywhere else.

[delphigto]

Erl has 6 bolt and billet mains. I used two of their blocks on builds and couldn't be happier with them.

[Unavowed]

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

She's a track car, sure it'll drive on the street, but what's the point if I will just light them up at quarter throttle. For a track setup, it is perfect, but not for everybody I'm sure. So, it will spend 85% of the time at full tilt, and will be trailered everywhere else.

Seems your build is 180* opposite of mine. My car will be 99% street driven, with an occasional track day here and there. For that reason I chose more compression and less boost. Seems we both got what we wanted.

[jrpxxii]

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

She's a track car, sure it'll drive on the street, but what's the point if I will just light them up at quarter throttle. For a track setup, it is perfect, but not for everybody I'm sure. So, it will spend 85% of the time at full tilt, and will be trailered everywhere else.

Mines a full out track car that is still street legal but will never be driven on the street because it cost $20 just to start it up My motor on the other hand is setup at 9:8:1 and Im running 30psi at this time and cranking it up even higher from here and then turning the nitrous on. What Im trying to say is anyone who told you 8:75:1 is ideal for power adders is giving bad info. If you are trying to go the absolute safest route then sure lower compression is going to keep the power down but if you want the most efficient best performing setup then you want a higher compression than what you have.