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Old 07-17-2018, 11:54 PM   #15
Motorboy8769
 
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What benefit is there to removing the stock clutch spring? My car is far from stock or streetable now. I already have the return spring mod to the pedal
I’m fighting a hiccup issue now when power shifting. Messed with the computer but I think it may be in the dang clutch switch or something causing it.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:15 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Motorboy8769 View Post
What benefit is there to removing the stock clutch spring? My car is far from stock or streetable now. I already have the return spring mod to the pedal
I’m fighting a hiccup issue now when power shifting. Messed with the computer but I think it may be in the dang clutch switch or something causing it.
The stock spring is really dual purpose, it's a return spring, but it's also an "assist" spring, which pushes the clutch DOWN once you have depressed the clutch to a certain point. I supposed it's there for driver comfort when holding the clutch down at a traffic light - I wouldn't know because if I'm not actively using the clutch mines in neutral. The result is that you have a really odd/inconsistent feeling clutch where it all of a sudden jumps up at your while you're releasing the clutch. It also contributes to holding the clutch on the floor when you bake the fluid.

It comes out easy. Some folks run without a return spring at all - I read on the vette forums that this risks the master cylinder not traveling back up fully, and therefore not opening the transfer port to allow circulation back to the clutch fluid reservoir. So, I have a pretty light return spring I got from Home Depot setup on mine. Lingenfelter will sell you the same spring, but they apparently theirs is made of solid gold because it's $80!!!!

The difference without the spring is awesome. It's just a consistent return to the top, rather than that sudden push up once you get about half way. If you're chasing a clutch feel issue, and you've already got the extra return spring in there, I'd definitely consider pulling it out. You can put it back if you don't like it.

Another thing to consider is the Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder and remote fluid reservoir. Basically, this was designed to help with the high rpm shift issues a lot of TR6060's have, especially on the 1-2. Their cylinder is a bored out stock piece, so it retains the pressure sensor and OE wiring connections, but it flows a higher volume of fluid per given stroke. The result is that it opens the clutch faster, and further, giving a more positive dis-engagement in an attempt to reduce drag against the syncros that have to spin those gear sets to the correct speed for the next gear. It helped in my car, but I still fight a crappy 1-2 shift. I just CANNOT rush it, it has to be deliberate and not a power shift, or it'll grind and even lock out some times. I literally have to tell myself, verbally, to take it easy on that shift, every pass. Because my natural approach is to bang that thing like an animal, and that doesn't work well.
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Old 10-30-2018, 07:00 AM   #17
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First time at the track was fun with learning to limit wheelspin.
Second time I tried Launch Control for the first time, first on the fresh prepared track.
Snapped my transmission output shaft at the line. Output shaft, bearings, fluid and labor $1450.
Early 2010 SS manual are known to have suspect heat treat, no shit.
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Old 10-30-2018, 08:35 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by FrankNstein1 View Post
First time at the track was fun with learning to limit wheelspin.
Second time I tried Launch Control for the first time, first on the fresh prepared track.
Snapped my transmission output shaft at the line. Output shaft, bearings, fluid and labor $1450.
Early 2010 SS manual are known to have suspect heat treat, no shit.
Wow - brutal. I've broken rear ends and axles, but never an output shaft. It looks like it at least went away cleanly at the start of the run and didn't cause a lot of damage to the rest of the car. For early TR6060 maybe it's a blessing in disguise, you can get those 1-4 syncros updated while its apart!
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:35 AM   #19
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Cammer, i've tried the E-brake thing on a country road a couple of times. i will get a bit of burnt clutch smell, is that normal? It may be that i held it a bit to long I'm not sure. At what point, sitting at the tree, do you decide to come up against the E-brake?
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Old 10-30-2018, 11:03 AM   #20
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Cammer, i've tried the E-brake thing on a country road a couple of times. i will get a bit of burnt clutch smell, is that normal? It may be that i held it a bit to long I'm not sure. At what point, sitting at the tree, do you decide to come up against the E-brake?
I roll into pre-stage, and stop the car with the foot brake, and then immediately go to the hand brake for roll control. I'll creep into the full stage when I'm ready using the clutch and hand brake exclusively. Now, my approach to preloading the driveline changes depending on if I'm racing the guy next to me, or just trying for slips.

If I'm racing I usually try to go into full stage second - and I'll target my launch rpm before I roll into full stage, and just lightly bump clutch engagement against the brake to get to full staged. Then I'll keep that clutch real close to where I know I just felt it want to engage, and as the tree drops I just tip into that engagement zone ever so lightly, then I make a quick release on the brake and smooth release on the clutch.

If I'm just trying for time slips I don't bring the launch rpm up till I'm fully staged and the tree is dropping. You have plenty of time after green to leave, so no rush. Once I'm happy with the launch rpm, I ease the clutch till I just feel it start to bite a tiny bit (you'll feel the car tense up) and then I make my quick release on the brake and smooth release of the clutch.

A little bit of clutch smell is pretty normal honestly. You're trying to get a 4000+ lbs car moving, and to do that without a violent release (some guys do it that way, I can't afford axles and diffs!) you need to use that clutch up some. It's hard to quantify how much is too much.

You'll know if you over-did it for sure if the clutch slips in first gear on your launch. Just get out of it, and let it cool good. A key for me is to NOT hot-lap the car, meaning do not make consecutive "max effort" launches without a good long cool down period. Last time I was out I broke my own rule, here is the result - a really unhappy clutch. You'll see the stage process too, although I wasn't really trying hard to cut a light I was practicing going in second. The clutch was fine, but did need to be properly cooled. I was also not running my usual RFB600 clutch fluid, but just some cheap DOT3, which I think wasn't helping things either.

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Old 10-31-2018, 10:31 AM   #21
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Thanks for the reply, it is much appreciated.
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Old 11-04-2018, 08:55 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankNstein1 View Post
First time at the track was fun with learning to limit wheelspin.
Second time I tried Launch Control for the first time, first on the fresh prepared track.
Snapped my transmission output shaft at the line. Output shaft, bearings, fluid and labor $1450.
Early 2010 SS manual are known to have suspect heat treat, no shit.
Is that Muncie? Looks familiar, although I haven't been there in 20 years.
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