Cone Killer: My Camaro SS Build

[Burt]

I don't have the Yokohamas yet, I'm still on the Pilot Super Sports. I'm looking forward to getting them and trying them though, since they're so comparable. We do use a simplified class structure in our region, where you're divided by treadwear rating (200) and driveline layout, for six total classes.

[Victory_Lola]

I loooove the color of your car, and I like how detailed your thread is with the mod installs!

I've been looking into short throws and i'm stuck on which one to get. how do you like the MGW? is it extremely hard to shift into the gears, especially 5th and 6th? I've heard the hurst short throw is a pain to shift sometimes so I'm curious about the MGW

[Burt]

Thanks, I appreciate it. I'm happy with my setup, which is the factory Hurst shifter with a MGW knob. The aftermarket Hurst shifter reduces shift throws by 44%, and was super stiff and notchy in a Corvette that I tried it in. The OEM Hurst shifter reduces throws by 22%, and while it's better, it can still be notchy for the sake of being notchy. The factory shift knob is shaped horribly too. The MGW shift knob is a little taller than OEM, which gives you better leverage over the shifter and only marginally longer throws. It's still accurate, but the shift resistance is good for.me.

[Sales @ CAI Inc]

Love the wheels! Have fun at the track!

[Burt]

Thanks, the wheels really tie the car together. Will do, I'm actually designing the course for my SCCA chapter this weekend. I do need to hit a road course though.

[Burt]

Updates! I've picked up a couple of things for my car, because I either had the itch or because they were on sale. First up, radius rod bushing inserts and caster locks from JPSS!



These were the first parts I bought from Pete, and his service is top notch. He's very helpful and honest if you email him with questions, and the products are high quality. Even getting them shipped is a breeze, they were shipped within a couple hours of me placing my order, and they were packaged so well, it would have taken a small bomb to so much as scratch them. But on to the important stuff; how hard are they to install, and do they work?

The install on both sides is pretty straightforward, with a little more work to do on the driver side. Once you have the car up in the air and the wheels off, the first thing to do is pull the fender liners. If you have mythical patience (or replacements) you can remove the push pins and screws, and pull the whole liner. If you're a redneck neanderthal like me, you can take out the three screws in the front, pull back on the fender liner, and tie it to the brake caliper with a bungie cord. Once that's out of the way, on the left side you'll need to remove the washer fluid reservoir.

After you've got the reservoir out, all you have to do is remove the bolt holding the inner end of the radius rod up, and drop it down. The existing bushing inserts are super easy to pry out with a flat head screwdriver. Here's what you should be left with once the inserts are popped out:



And here's what the existing inserts look like compared to the new ones:



As you can see, Pete's inserts fill in a lot more of the void in the bushing than the stock inserts, as well as being made of a harder material. After I popped the new ones in, I moved on to the caster locks. The easiest way to open the existing holes up is with a die grinder, which makes pretty quick work of it. I also had to bend the front eccentric fences to allow the nut and bolt head to clear. Here you can see my first attempt:



It's real ugly, but it was basically my first time using a die grinder, and I cleaned them up a bit after I took this photo. Once you're done, all you have to do is reassemble everything (the radius rod bolts should be toghtened with the weight of the car on the suspension) and you're done. I noticed an immediate difference once I got my car back out on the road. The steering has a bit more effort to it, and the on center dead zone is a lot smaller. The radius rod inserts and caster locks are worth every penny.



Another part I put on the car was a BMR power steering rack bushing. It's even more straightforward than the inserts or locks. Once you have the front passenger wheel off, you can see the bushing:



The two bolts are 18mm, not 15 mm, and they take some work to get out. If the radius arm is in place, you'll have to work around it. There's also an insulated line above it, so it'll probably take a combination of extensions to get the front bolt out. After both bolts are out, you can pop the bushing saddle off with a couple old flat head screwdrivers.



At this point, you need to lift the steering rack up to get the stock bushing off and put the new one on. BMR recommends unbolting the other end of the rack, but there's even less room to get to the bolts on the other side. I took my floor jack, positioned it under the tie rod end, and lifted up until a small gap formed under the bushing. It's a breeze to get off after that. Before you put the bushing on, grease it up. I don't mean to dab a little on here and there, I mean grab some gloves



and cover that thing. THE LUBE IS YOUR FRIEND. Life lesson for the day. But seriously. Run a line of grease all around the new bushing:



Spread it around, and the bushing should fit easily, with the saddle should slide right on. Once you bolt it back down,



you're all done. I won't really know if this makes a noticeable difference until i run it at the autocross tomorrow.

[Burt]

I got another set of wheels, because that's what this car really needed. Tirerack was selling Enkei Falcons in a 20x10 +40 for $79 each plus shipping, and throwing in a set of Gorilla lock nuts. I was planning on saving for some 19x10.5s or 19x11s to run autocross on, but at this price, they'll certainly do. I know they're cast, and heavy, and not that good looking, but all they'll get used for is autocross with the occasional track day when I have the funds. I'll get some 285/35 Hankook RS3s or BFG Rivals once I can afford them.







Even though it's pretty tight, they fit. Here's the strut clearance compared to my Forgestars:





I'm probably going to run about 2/10ths of a degree less camber at the knuckle next time I align the car anyway, so i'll have plenty of clearance for them next year.

[Burt]

Well this autocross season went out with a whimper rather than a bang. It was about 30 degrees with light snow when I showed up, and since I was one of four people who actually came out, they cancelled the event. While that sucks, it did give me a chance to start winterizing the car. I put the stock wheels w/ Nitto NT90W snow tires back on, turned the dampers down to 4/30 front and 2/30 rear, and lowered the car a few mm more, since I got extra ground clearance from the taller tires. I've got it in the ballpark of where I want it, but I'm hoping to corner balance it in the next night or two, and then time all the bushings and align it later in the week, assuming I can get access to a four post lift. Even though the steering is lighter, it rides like a couch, and the wheels disappear into the fenders, it's still way different than it was a year ago. Body motions are controlled, there's less understeer, and the steering and suspension react more immediately. Now I just have to count the days until spring...

[SS MoFo]

Great looking cars!

Question on your build. You'er using the same F14 wheel offset front and back with the MPSS 295/35/20 tires? I'm interested in this setup, what's the correct wheel offset for the F14's ?

[aquablueL99]

Loving the looks of the Enkei Falcons! Looks like something I would like on my ABM..

Nice Thread....

Kurt ABL99...

[Burt]

Thanks Mr. Mofo! I sent you a pm to try and answer your question.

Thanks Kurt! I bet that grey/silver color scheme would look really good on a blue car like yours.

[Burt]

I've done a little bit of work over the last couple days. Yesterday I installed a JDP tow hook on the front of the car, and today I corner balanced it. It's not perfect, but all four corners of the car are within about 3/16ths of an inch (5mm) of each other. I may fine tune it a little in the future, but for now it's pretty close, especially considering that the level of gas will change in the tank over the course of an autocross. I should have trailing arms on the way, and when I install them and the outer bushings, I'll time all the bushings and do an alignment. The next autocross season can't get here soon enough.

[aquablueL99]

Originally Posted by Burt

Thanks Mr. Mofo! I sent you a pm to try and answer your question.

Thanks Kurt! I bet that grey/silver color scheme would look really good on a blue car like yours.

Burt, I am sure they would...When I was looking for mine, that is what I wanted....five spoke grey with satin rim...something like my 68..Torque Thrusters.....just couldn't come up with a set that had some "dish"....I can't wait to see your mounted on tires and on that nice Camaro!

Kurt ABL99...

[Burt]

Hopefully I won't keep you waiting too long. At the moment, my SCCA region is planning on holding their first event of the year in March, and I'd like to have my tires ready to go by then. My tax return should let me take care of autox tires and a new set of warm weather street tires.