Corroded header bolts

[Synner]

Anyone else have this issue? My car has 2k miles on it. I went to put headers on it today and they fought me the entire way; every bolt was covered in corrosion and the threads on about half of them looked like crap. I'm debating if I want to chase them all with a tap and clean them out while I wait for new bolts. I thought the bolts were going to break it took so much force to get them out. I finally went and bought an air ratchet because my arms and wrists couldn't take it anymore. And then one of the headers had a cross threaded 02 port so I needed to order a tap and die for that since my kit only goes to 12mm.

Going to look tomorrow locally but will probably have to buy the bolts online somewhere. What a crappy day.

[Go Fast Kid]

Use Never seize , the bolts are high carbon steel in an aluminum head.

[Synner]

I plan on it for the replacements but these things were wrecked coming out. At this rate I never would have gotten them out if I had waited until 10k miles to do headers. It just seems odd how bad they were in this short of a time, dissimilar metals or not.

[Cam 427]

I had a tough time with mine. They had some sort of thread locker on the theads. I brushed the threads off and reused them.

[Oxtar41]

Thats not corrision on them, its a form of loc-tite to prevent them from backing out. Im a GM technician and have never ever seen corrosion on the threads of the bolts. The loctite works great especially when you have to put new manifolds on a 6.0L suburban with 120k miles on it then its time to start drilling!

[67motorcat]

Originally Posted by Cam 427

I had a tough time with mine. They had some sort of thread locker on the theads. I brushed the threads off and reused them.

+ one....clean the locktite off the threads.

Clean the rust off the bolt heads, but not too much to remove the black the oxide finish.

Punch holes in a cardboard box with a screw driver.

Insert header bolts in holes and spray with engine clear coat.

Apply a bit of anti-seize and re-install.

Say good bye to rusty factory header bolts

[Synner]

I've never seen a green/yellow loctite before but if thats what it is...
Although it still doesn't explain why the threads were jacked up on about half of them. I still plan on getting new ones because of how the threads looked and will cover them with anti-seize.

[The Stig]

Originally Posted by Oxtar41

Thats not corrision on them, its a form of loc-tite to prevent them from backing out. Im a GM technician and have never ever seen corrosion on the threads of the bolts. The loctite works great especially when you have to put new manifolds on a 6.0L suburban with 120k miles on it then its time to start drilling!

This.

[SGDM]

Blue Loc Tite works pretty good.

[MarylandSpeed]

I am guessing you mean the stock bolts..yes they will rust because they are plain steal. Most new headers should come with stainless hardware.

[Synner]

Originally Posted by MarylandSpeed

I am guessing you mean the stock bolts..yes they will rust because they are plain steal. Most new headers should come with stainless hardware.

I got an ARH system used and most everything was missing so if it came with bolts they never made it to me.

Here's stainless hex head for cheap in case anyone else needs some. The standard ones jegs sells are allen head which I would never use on something like this due to torque requirements and risk of damage on the rear bolts. I think you'd have to pull the motor if one got stripped.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Gardner-Westco...6-HSP/10002/-1

[JDP Tech]

Thats odd they gave you such a headache. The loc-tite stuff they use does make it harder, but on all the headers we've done, they usually come out without too much effort. Slow going of course, but they haven't ruined any threads.

It probably would be a good idea to chase the threads, just in case, plus would clean out some more of the loc-tite. If one is screwed up, you don't want to ruin it even more by trying to send a new bolt in it.

Make sure when you install the headers, use anti-sieze on the bolts. If you think its bad taking the original bolts out, just wait; if you use more loc-tite and take them out later, it often does havoc on the threads...

[Badbubba]

Originally Posted by SGDM

Blue Loc Tite works pretty good.

Loctite's Threadlocker Blue 242 instructions state: for removal of bolt's between 1/4 & 3/4 use standard hand tools and apply heat if the bolts are hard to remove. Operating temp is between -65F to 300F. Heat to 482F to aid in removal.
I'm not sure of the temp in this area. But if it is high enough, I would think the threadlocker may not have much affect. Although it may prevent galling. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_l...r-Blue-242.htm
Could GM have used a high temp threadlocker? I plan on installing headers in the spring and would like to know what is the best product to use? Threadlocker or anti-seize.

[MikeOD]

Mine came right out...were you supporting the exhaust from below, or just letting it hang from the bolts as you loosened them?

I would be VERY cautious using a cutting tap to chase those threads in the heads...use a thread chaser, but not a cutting tap...not free hand, crooked, in an engine bay, in cast aluminum.

I put my car back together with stainless ARP studs with 12 point nuts...makes it so convenient to line up the gaskets and headers, and you have any angle you can think of with the box end of a 12 point wrench...over 10K miles now, no leaks, no nuts loosening...no problems, just a happy Kooks/ARP customer.