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Old 05-31-2012, 10:38 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
Robert, thanks for the links. Just got off the phone with Livernois. They got back to me with a price within 1/2 hour. Parts are ordered!

Thanks Livernois for the great service....to those other shops who kept saying "checks in the mail" Not so much

I know where my future dollars will go.
Thanks for the kind words!

-Rick
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:01 AM   #16
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Bull,

You might want to look into a one way flow valve as well, it was recommended to me by Jeremy at house of boost. Also I noticed that I didn't see any elbows or radius pieces. It's nicer/easier to use 90* fittings on the back of the rails so line isn't rubbing the fire wall. You will also see different radius fitting on the front of the rail for the crossover line, I am not sure where you plan to mount the regulator ( firewall, fender, rail) but depending its location you might want a few turns for it. Just a thought.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:30 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
See the list below, prefer to spend my money with a vendor on C5. Tried to post this in the vendor section but the system wouldn't let me.

All part numbers are Aeromotive, i believe the tach adapter is autometer. Any vendors here want to PM me a price...thanks

1 - 18674 Eliminator Stealth Fuel Pump
1 - 12335 40-m Billet Fuel Filter
1 - 14142 LS7 Billet Fuel Rails
1 - 13110 Pro-Series EFI Regulator
1 - 16306 Fuel Pump Speed Controller
1 - 15675 AN-10 to 2 AN-08 Y-block
1 - 15641 ORB-08 to AN-10 port fitting (for the fuel pump outlet)
2 - 15608 ORB-10 to AN-10 port fitting (you need 2 of these for the 12335 fuel filter, but will use 1 from the regulator return port, which comes complete with fittings. We'll adapt the regulator return to AN-08).
1 - 15610 ORB-10 to AN-08 (for the regulator return port to AN-08)
5 - 15607 ORB-08 to AN-08 port fittings (4 for the fuel rails and one for the return port in the top hat).
1 - 12305 Billet fuel filter bracket.
1 Tach adapter
Sorry I missed this post Yesterday, I stock all this stuff.

Your in good Hands with Livernois

Ted.
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Genevieve View Post
Bull,

You might want to look into a one way flow valve as well, it was recommended to me by Jeremy at house of boost. Also I noticed that I didn't see any elbows or radius pieces. It's nicer/easier to use 90* fittings on the back of the rails so line isn't rubbing the fire wall. You will also see different radius fitting on the front of the rail for the crossover line, I am not sure where you plan to mount the regulator ( firewall, fender, rail) but depending its location you might want a few turns for it. Just a thought.

I was looking at you pic on your build thread and noticed all the elbows. I was wondering the same thing. I have an email in to Dallas Performance with the list of all my fuel system parts. I also asked him if he had all the connections for the fuel lines to all my AN-8 and AN-10 fittings. He does a lot of custom fuel systems in his builds. No response to my email yet however.

Could you PM me the part numbers of the elbows and flow check valve?
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:52 PM   #19
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15107 for the -10 check valve.
Genevieve, post the part numbers here if you can. This could be the thread that contains all the part numbers and save someone some research.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:24 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by blake-b View Post
15107 for the -10 check valve.
Genevieve, post the part numbers here if you can. This could be the thread that contains all the part numbers and save someone some research.
I haven't gonculated the number of connectors required but here are the part numbers for the straight and 90deg connectors in -10 and -8

15653 - straight -8 hose end (estimate 6 of these)
15655 - 90 deg -8 hose end (probably 4 for the rails)
15656 - straight -10 hose end (looks like 4 of these)
15658 - 90 deg -10 hose ends (dont think any required)

WOW!!!! $500 BUCKS FOR THESE HOSE CONNECTORS

I dont know if the regulator/pump/filter comes with any hose end connectors. I doubt it.
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Last edited by BullF-16; 05-31-2012 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:29 PM   #21
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If that shop was Proline then I'd stick with them...they're great!!

As for the emails....I suspect they get tire kicked to death and a phone call separates the kickers from the customers.
If the tire kicker pre cursors the email with I am deployed to afghanistan and cant call you... Does that qualify?
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:42 PM   #22
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Are you going to use your existing fuel lines? If not get the Teflon(PTFE) ones so you don't have to redo it again in a year or two. Plus the regular SS braided stuff sweats and starts to smell like fuel after a while.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
I was looking at you pic on your build thread and noticed all the elbows. I was wondering the same thing. I have an email in to Dallas Performance with the list of all my fuel system parts. I also asked him if he had all the connections for the fuel lines to all my AN-8 and AN-10 fittings. He does a lot of custom fuel systems in his builds. No response to my email yet however.

Could you PM me the part numbers of the elbows and flow check valve?
Looks like I am late to the party, all the part numbers are already listed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
I haven't gonculated the number of connectors required but here are the part numbers for the straight and 90deg connectors in -10 and -8

15653 - straight -8 hose end (estimate 6 of these)
15655 - 90 deg -8 hose end (probably 4 for the rails)
15656 - straight -10 hose end (looks like 4 of these)
15658 - 90 deg -10 hose ends (dont think any required)

WOW!!!! $500 BUCKS FOR THESE HOSE CONNECTORS

I dont know if the regulator/pump/filter comes with any hose end connectors. I doubt it.
The pump does not come with any fitting, nor does the filter or regulator. depending on how you want to run the system and where you would like to plumb different items will determine how many of what you may need. The Pump has a -8ORB orifice for the feed and return. Aeromotive makes a -8orb to -10 AN that I used for it. The regulator depending on which one you choose will say if it has -8 or -10 ORB fittings in which case you would have to decide to go from there. Also would you want it on the firewall or fender or right off the rail. I choose to mount it off the rail itself because I like that look and convenience. Like wise in this scenario I like the look of a 45* off the front rail as oppose to a 90* because the regulator changes where everything is connected. And you are right that with each ORB connection you will have to have a ORB - AN hose end. for example in my setup it would look something like this.

-10 straight hose adapter....Check Valve... -10 AN to -10 ORB connections... Filter....-10 ORB to -10 AN connection...-10 straight hose adapter.

OR in aeromotive part numbers...

027-15656......027-15107....027-15608.....027-12321.....027-15608.....027-15656

if that makes sense.... lol. Also I don"t remember your power goals but running -8 oppose to -10 will save a few pennies too. However, remember that no matter how expensive it is, it is always cheaper to do it once and not twice.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR View Post
Are you going to use your existing fuel lines? If not get the Teflon(PTFE) ones so you don't have to redo it again in a year or two. Plus the regular SS braided stuff sweats and starts to smell like fuel after a while.
I have been debating using braided steel under the car to the Y block in the engine bay and braided black Nylon from there forward. Just for more protection while the line is under the car.
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:02 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genevieve View Post
Looks like I am late to the party, all the part numbers are already listed.




The pump does not come with any fitting, nor does the filter or regulator. depending on how you want to run the system and where you would like to plumb different items will determine how many of what you may need. The Pump has a -8ORB orifice for the feed and return. Aeromotive makes a -8orb to -10 AN that I used for it. The regulator depending on which one you choose will say if it has -8 or -10 ORB fittings in which case you would have to decide to go from there. Also would you want it on the firewall or fender or right off the rail. I choose to mount it off the rail itself because I like that look and convenience. Like wise in this scenario I like the look of a 45* off the front rail as oppose to a 90* because the regulator changes where everything is connected. And you are right that with each ORB connection you will have to have a ORB - AN hose end. for example in my setup it would look something like this.

-10 straight hose adapter....Check Valve... -10 AN to -10 ORB connections... Filter....-10 ORB to -10 AN connection...-10 straight hose adapter.

OR in aeromotive part numbers...

027-15656......027-15107....027-15608.....027-12321.....027-15608.....027-15656

if that makes sense.... lol. Also I don"t remember your power goals but running -8 oppose to -10 will save a few pennies too. However, remember that no matter how expensive it is, it is always cheaper to do it once and not twice.




I have been debating using braided steel under the car to the Y block in the engine bay and braided black Nylon from there forward. Just for more protection while the line is under the car.
I think our setups are similar, here is how i envision the plumbing:

-10 line from fuel hat outlet to the 40 micron filter, plumb the check valve directly to the filter outlet( aeromotive recommends this, -10 line from the check valve to Y block.

Then from the Y block, two -8 lines feed into the back of my LS7 fuel rails (near firewall), two -8 lines from the front of the rails into the two -8 ports in the Pro series EFI regulator.

For the return port on the Pro series regulator i will have a -10 to -8 orb fitting(-8 return line), then -8 line from the regulator return to the return port on the fuel hat.

I was thinking of mounting the regulator on the fender, or the rail, i will have to see later.

So, looks like about 4 of the 90* -8 connectors. Six of the -8 straight connectors, and 4 of the -10 straight connectors.

Im sure that Dallas Performance will be able to figure it out if one or two connections are still needed. They make a bunch of "one off" custom fuel systems on their TT vette and Lambo builds.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:11 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genevieve View Post
Looks like I am late to the party, all the part numbers are already listed.




The pump does not come with any fitting, nor does the filter or regulator. depending on how you want to run the system and where you would like to plumb different items will determine how many of what you may need. The Pump has a -8ORB orifice for the feed and return. Aeromotive makes a -8orb to -10 AN that I used for it. The regulator depending on which one you choose will say if it has -8 or -10 ORB fittings in which case you would have to decide to go from there. Also would you want it on the firewall or fender or right off the rail. I choose to mount it off the rail itself because I like that look and convenience. Like wise in this scenario I like the look of a 45* off the front rail as oppose to a 90* because the regulator changes where everything is connected. And you are right that with each ORB connection you will have to have a ORB - AN hose end. for example in my setup it would look something like this.

-10 straight hose adapter....Check Valve... -10 AN to -10 ORB connections... Filter....-10 ORB to -10 AN connection...-10 straight hose adapter.

OR in aeromotive part numbers...

027-15656......027-15107....027-15608.....027-12321.....027-15608.....027-15656

if that makes sense.... lol. Also I don"t remember your power goals but running -8 oppose to -10 will save a few pennies too. However, remember that no matter how expensive it is, it is always cheaper to do it once and not twice.




I have been debating using braided steel under the car to the Y block in the engine bay and braided black Nylon from there forward. Just for more protection while the line is under the car.
The Teflon lines are braided steel lines. They look just like the normal braided steel lines from the outside but instead of having rubber on the inside they are Teflon. I haven't seen any of the Teflon stuff in the Black nylon braided but I have seen them in braided steel with a Black vinyl covering.

Here is what I installed.






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Old 06-01-2012, 05:15 PM   #26
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I wish they had the Teflon stuff in the Black nylon like these.


They are still braided steel(one layer) with an additional nylon braid.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:25 PM   #27
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If I could do it over again I would use the Black vinyl covered steel braided lines since the nylon ones aren't available.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:20 PM   #28
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I think Earls performamce make a black teflon line.
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