Spec Mini Twin install on 1LE TR6060

[WHAMMO]

Just thought Id shared a bit on the install.

PARTS AND MEASUREMENTS+SHIMS
I wanted to go with something real light, knowing the pros and cons. Seems like the Mini Twin is a real strong unit. Got a good deal on it and Spec guy said it should bolton right in, which is not true. It is on T56 cars, maybe, but thr TR6060 is longer so you WILL NEED a big shim. Ended up with a 1.25" shim to get a proper 0.129" gap. Spec say it needs a .100-.150 on this unit. And you need a pedal stop.

Measuring is pretty easy; block to fingers minus bellhousing to compressed slave cyl(hub release bearing) top. Take your time and take the average out of 3 measures. Worked good for me. Then re-measure

The kit looks good and comes with a slave, full stainless clutch line(nice upgrade), a speed bleeder(nice!) the flywheel and twin clutch.

WEIGHT REDUCTION FTW!
Clutch and flywheel weights 19lbs IIRC, compared to 59lbs stock...thats a HUGE weight saving.

TORQ SPEC
Gotta say the kit doesnt come with no instruction, which is non-sense IMO. It needs at least the torque spec for the pressure plate and flywheel since its all alumium. Per Spec its 22lbs on the press plate and 35lbs flywheel with loctite everywhere. Be sure to line up the pressure plate with the flywheel; there is a mark, I guess its balanced together. Just for reference, stock flywheel torques to 70ish ft lbs and pressure plate 50lbs. Lets just say the aluminium wont take it...

TRANS REMOVAL
As for the trans removal, I did it myself on the garage floor. You need some wood blocks and high jackstand, cause the TR6060 is pretty high at the bellhousing. And do not remove the bellhousing, cause its sealed and you will see the inside of trans...ask me how I know! Not like your good ole T56...you need to remove the bolt on top of trans and shifter bearing to seal it back. The bearings might fall..clean it put it back carefully lol. You need to line up the pump gear too.

MARK YOUR DS POSITION
Mark your driving shaft so it gets back in the same position. I did it in the back, but not front. Ill see if I get vibration. Remove your exhaust with a friend if you dont wanna scrape your nice tips.

ELECT WIRES IN THE WAY
Watchout for the wiring on top passengers side, it gets easily stuck between body and trans. Same thing when putting it back.

As for removing the trans, I used the same wood panel that worked for the T56; thick enough like 1" and 1.5 foot x 2. I used 1 jack in the middle and lowered it after all connections and O2 sensors are unplugged and the hydrolic line too. You can empty the clutch oil reservoir and the trans oil to avoid some mess and lighten the trans. When unplugging the oil cooler lines, rubber glove and elastic is a good idea to avoid leaks. I used like 4 1/2 feet worth of extensions. Its kinda easy to reach all the bolts if the trans is lowered to the max. Using a bunch of small extensions makes them flexible so its easy to go above and around the trans.

I strongly suggest emptying the trans..rubber gloves dis not hold during 2nd-3rs install and it made a mess. Sont forget to put some gasket maker on the oil filler and drain plugs.

COOLER LINES
The cooler lines(1LE) are a bitch cause you need to back up the trans over em before lowering the trans. I strongly suggest you remove the shifter completly before lowering the trans. You just need to remove the upper bolts then under there is a small rod with clips and 2 bolts I think, all under a rubber, remove it by hand.

BOLTING TRANS BACK
Putting the trans back, you get it back up on the wood plate, jack it up so you can go over cooler lines if its a 1LE or equipped so. You line up the shaft into the clutch as close as possible, then you finish the last inch by slowly bolting the bellhousing to the engine by hand. Bolts should be easy to turn...if not the trans is not close enough nor lined up. I had to rotate it. Bolts the bolts on each sides, opposites ones. Dont do it with the 2 easy bolts down..you risk stripping the alum threads.

So now I need to make my pedal stop, install DS and exhaust, bleed clutch and go!

I am still working on my wheel/tires combo and maybe a drop but Ill see. Im trying to run a 26" tires without looking too silly ����

Car will be done saturday, I hope..

I will report back!!

[eLeSthree]

Great write up. Any progress? Curious if its a bitch to drive. Im about to buy the Mcleod RXT 1200HD since I want the stock pedal feel and ease of driving on the street. But this write up helps out with any clutch swap.

[WHAMMO]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

Great write up. Any progress? Curious if its a bitch to drive. Im about to buy the Mcleod RXT 1200HD since I want the stock pedal feel and ease of driving on the street. But this write up helps out with any clutch swap.

Made a lot of progress, yes! I had some issue, which were related to beeing a total custom setup and some minor DIY'er error One of which was that my pedal stop wasnt long enough, so Ive forced too much fluid in the system, slave cyl beeing the end of it and the oring broke overnight...good thing Spec are easy to rebuild with a #229 oring rated for oil/water(eptm or afla). Had to removed trans for the 3rd time and replace orings.

PEDAL STOP!
Ive worked my pedal stop from 1inch travel to like 4-5 inch, until the drivetrain was moving. You need a pedal stop of 3.5-5inch. I have like 1inch max after engagement point. The Spec slave has a very short travel (0.5inch!!) so dont wanna push pedal too far, the slave will stroked out and leak...so youre up for a trans removal and oring change.

TRANS ALIGNMENT
Aligning trans was harder then, IDK why. But one good trick was to pull down on the headers to level the engine to trans, while having a buddy wigling and pushing the trans in.

DRIVABILITY
As of drivability, its a bitch to drive, but in a fun way. The car feels a lot 'racier' but its only a bit harsh to manage when going from a stop; the engagement is like 1inch max. There is almost no friction point. Anyway its not good to slip those alumium discs& flywheel. After that, its easy going like any clutch. The pedal is 2.5x harder than the stock one. Its not a problem, unless really looking for a DD / stock feeling.

The Clutch is noisy when in neutral, which is caused by the floater disc between the twin clutch discs. I was told its normal and all twins do that to a point. You push the pedal and it stops.

ITS AWESOME!! BENEFITS;
The shifting is now twice as good as stock! 7100rpm shifts, no sweat! Its a great clutch.

Now the good stuff; it feels like the car gained 30hp (butt dyno). The car revs so fast, its crazy!! Its another car now..There is no delay in the power under the curve; its just there, right now!! Its explosive right from 3000rpm!!

NEEDS IDLE+LOW SPEED+ clutch sensor TUNING
Youll need a good amount of drivability tuning; the car will die and surge at idle and when you let the rpm go down. Pat G is taking care of it, and with 2 retune by email+datalog(efilive), the car is almost on point. Its 75% of beeing perfect. Only at low rpm and speed that it needs adjustment. Needs a higher idle..less lope. And the car wont start without tuning out the clutch sensor, since you have a pedal stop..

SOME ADVICE
Another advice; do not put too much grease on the trans shaft; its gonna end up on the clutch and I have some occasional tiny slip a low rpm(1400-1600) till it burns it all. Ive seen the lube on the clutch discs after the 3rd install and after a drive test. I wiped off some on the shaft and cleaned discs, but still cause some tiny slip. I would only put a dot on the end of shaft and just lube up the surface of the spline, lightly.

[WHAMMO]

Just to be clear; for the spacer/shim, you need a 1.25inch shim on top of the one provided by Spec. You can see in the pic that there is 2shims under the blue slave cylinder, on top of the other.

I would not recommend this clutch if you are planning to drive in heavy trafic, BUT, my Monster stage 3 and billet flywheel was as bad for overheating in those situations, but the engagement was better for going from a stop.

Other than that, having a super light clutch is really one of the best mod Ive ever had! Just on startup, the car revs up aggressively!! Perfect for a weekend warrior. Needs to go to the track now. I have to fix my pinion angle since I run a 26inch tires combo+lowered rear springs and there is some slight vibrations.

Now my neighbor really hates me even more; he yelled at me the 1st night on startup hahah

I will never buy a heavy clutch again(30lbs+). This onw is rated 800hp/800tq!

[WHAMMO]

PEDAL STOP PIC
Made it from hardware store stuff. *BE PREPARED to drill the pedal for a good 30mins+ while pushing on the brake pedal. It sucked. I started with a grinder and then small to bigger drill bits. You dont need to be a fabricator, just a bit inventive.

[WHAMMO]

DRIVING SHAFT REINSTALL and EXHAUST

It goes back pretty easily. Ive reused stock bolts, which is not the best way to do it :O Buy new ones. I wanted to get the car tested so no time to wait for that. Torque specs are IIRC, 76ft-lbs front of DS to trans and 85ft-lbs rear of DS to diff. Its very helpful to have someone in the car to put it in neutral to rotate DS to torque bolts. 1st gear can hold when gently torquing.

TRICK FOR THE INVERTED TORX BOLTS
The bolts on trans side needs special torq socket. Ive used 12pans socket and it worked perfect!! Donr remember the size though, just try it out. It was in SAE close to a 9/16. Dont quoted me on the size. Close to a 14mm size.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by WHAMMO

DRIVING SHAFT REINSTALL and EXHAUST

It goes back pretty easily. Ive reused stock bolts, which is not the best way to do it :O Buy new ones. I wanted to get the car tested so no time to wait for that. Torque specs are IIRC, 76ft-lbs front of DS to trans and 85ft-lbs rear of DS to diff. Its very helpful to have someone in the car to put it in neutral to rotate DS to torque bolts. 1st gear can hold when gently torquing.

TRICK FOR THE INVERTED TORX BOLTS
The bolts on trans side needs special torq socket. Ive used 12pans socket and it worked perfect!! Donr remember the size though, just try it out. It was in SAE close to a 9/16. Dont quoted me on the size. Close to a 14mm size.

I just wanted to say thanks for all the pics and info. I just got my mcleod in last night and this thread was helpful, even though its a completely custom setup.

I just wanted to add something to make life easier. When it comes to the driveshaft, there is a much easier way. I'll add a picture to this post in a minute from my phone, but the only bolts that need to be removed are the 3 female T55 torx bolts that hold the driveshaft onto the rubber thing that is bolted to the trans. (MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE ALIGNMENT POSITION)

Once those 3 bolts (and nuts) are off, just pop the driveshaft off from from the rubber thing, and slide the yolk off the other driveshaft. No need to remove the support bracket or rear section of driveshaft, or the rubber thing.

[WHAMMO]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

I just wanted to say thanks for all the pics and info. I just got my mcleod in last night and this thread was helpful, even though its a completely custom setup.

I just wanted to add something to make life easier. When it comes to the driveshaft, there is a much easier way. I'll add a picture to this post in a minute from my phone, but the only bolts that need to be removed are the 3 female T55 torx bolts that hold the driveshaft onto the rubber thing that is bolted to the trans. (MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE ALIGNMENT POSITION)

Once those 3 bolts (and nuts) are off, just pop the driveshaft off from from the rubber thing, and slide the yolk off the other driveshaft. No need to remove the support bracket or rear section of driveshaft, or the rubber thing.

Thanks man, NP! Yeah I,ve notice now that you just need to remove only those 3 bolts and lower the DS and it clears...learning along the way.



Now, My trans is out again cause I have another blown slave's seal. I have remeasure everything and it seems my gap was way too tight. Pedal stop might be my issue too cause it bent and drove the car some miles before noticing. I'll be running a 0.112 GAP now.



Now I have a seal leak in the front case just behind the slave(input or output shaft? idk..). I'm trying to figure out what is the part number now.