08-26-2013, 06:49 AM | #1 |
Drives: 1981 camero project Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: sugarhill ga
Posts: 5
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heat soak ... help
i have just gotten a 81 camaro its got a gm 350 crate motor with holley street avenger edelbrock high rise headers dart 2 heads etc...
the problem im having is when the car gets hot it wont start till it cools i am pretty sure the headers are getting the starter to hot any suggestions? |
08-26-2013, 07:34 AM | #2 |
I.AM.
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS/A6 cammed-n-whippled Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 2,638
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Does it crank over fine and not start (fuel line could be getting hot) or does it not crank over enough to start it (starter getting hot)?
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08-26-2013, 02:16 PM | #3 |
Drives: 1981 camero project Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: sugarhill ga
Posts: 5
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cranks really slow till i let it cool
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08-26-2013, 03:07 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,632
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Heat shield? Header Wrap? Coated headers?
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08-26-2013, 03:33 PM | #5 |
'69 Owned Since '79
Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LR AR
Posts: 1,847
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Don't forget the mini-starter solution. Add an extra ground too while you are at it.
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08-26-2013, 04:50 PM | #6 |
I.AM.
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS/A6 cammed-n-whippled Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 2,638
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^^^ yes to all of the above. A good hi-torque mini-starter is probably the best solution.
Heat shields never seem to fit right (at least the ones that I've tried). Also good quality stainless-steel headers will help hold in the heat.
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08-26-2013, 05:02 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2012 45th Vert, 2011 4x4, 9sec Vega Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,188
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This is the best solution. Your issue is common with gen1's and headers. You can wrap the headers where they pass the starter with header wrap too. Works for most people.
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08-26-2013, 07:22 PM | #8 |
Drives: 1981 camero project Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: sugarhill ga
Posts: 5
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anyone heard of using a remote soleinoid
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08-27-2013, 11:15 AM | #9 |
'69 Owned Since '79
Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LR AR
Posts: 1,847
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Yes, and I have one myself BUT - OP's problem is "SLOW CRANK". Remote solenoid is really just good for "NO CRANK" (single "click" but no engine turning).
Once you have enough power to fully engage the starter drive gear into the flywheel and at the same time send the electrical power to the armature, no remote solenoid is needed. If it does crank but turns the engine slowly, it is a different problem. -Mark. |
08-27-2013, 12:42 PM | #10 | |
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
Posts: 1,252
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Quote:
I had the same problem with my 68 and haven't had a problem since installing the mini high performance starter. Check with your local speed shop and don't waste time or money trying to make heat shields or header wrap work. Those high performance starters are made to withstand the heat whereas the stock starters are not. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
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09-04-2013, 09:00 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE (2)79Z28 72RS 67SS 69Z Join Date: May 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 422
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I'm in Arizona and the temps are real hot. I had heat soak problems with my 79z28 with headers and tryed lots of things. The best thing I found to do is a inexpensive Remote Starter Solenoid Mod.
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm or look at this one from Super Chevy http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...fix/index.html ....never had a starter problem after that. Another mod I did to the wiring is a start defeat switch The switch keeps the solenoid from turning on here is a pic with it wired so everything seems to work except starting. You could put it on the ignition Start Mode side if you wanted to. [IMG][/IMG]
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