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Old 03-27-2015, 08:11 PM   #1
cybercoaster

 
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Header install advice

I have searched this site and others and come up with different answers. Just looking for first hand advice.

Finally going to work on installing my Kooks 2" headers this weekend. I have the O2 sensor tool, GM gaskets, the bolts that come with the headers and O2 extender wires. Anyone have any other advice? Do I need sealant for the gaskets? Do you remove the oil dipstick tube, if so, anything special for that? Any other tips to make this smooth sailing? Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2015, 08:31 PM   #2
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no sealant...not necessary. You don't need an O2 sensor tool...open end 7/8" or 22mm works much easier. Bolts supplied with the headers are notoriously cheap, and I have always reused the original (OE) bolts on LS applications. Removing the dipstick tube is as simple as removing the retaining bolt and pulling straight up...yes, you need to remove it. Getting the dipstick tube back in position is much more tricky because of visibility around the starter shield. You will have to remove the steering u-joint rubber cover due to clearance. Also, you will have to remove the 11mm bolt from the joint and move the steering rod briefly to gain more clearance when the header is raised into place. 02 extender wires are necessary as the O2 sensors don't have a lead long enough the reach the connection point on the back of the cylinder head on either side. That connection point on the back of the cylinder head is tight so you must have a smallish hand to disconnect it. Look for the green plastic lock on the weatherpack that first must be removed before disconnecting. Obviously, remove spark plugs and wires before attempting header removal or installation.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:01 PM   #3
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Dipstick is actually really easy to reinstall. Before you take it out look at where it goes from underneath the car. When you go back to install get it close, crawl under car and guide it into the hole by hand. Then from the top push down to seat the o ring.

Dont know if the Kook 2" has the same issue but my TSP 2" didnt clear a tab on the engine ground stud. I removed stud and had to cut off tab.

Remove intake. Gives extra room to work on drivers side.

Take your time, not a hard install but does take time. Passenger side has a lot of stuff in the way that makes for some one click wrenching. I found a racheting wrench worked best for me.

I didn't have to remove or disconnect steering knuckle.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:32 AM   #4
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Thanks all, it all went slow but well. Took longer than expected. When you say "You will have to remove the steering u-joint rubber cover due to clearance" is this part you are talking about? The clamp does rub on header. Simply remove? There are no issues with it off? What is this "cover" for? Just want to make sure I remove the correct item and not mess anything up ! Thanks!
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:45 AM   #5
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Yes that's it. It's a dust cover for the joint. I removed mine after seeing a lot of people remove them for clearance. I'm sure if you clean once in a while and keep it lubed it is fine. I'm just going to hit it mine with a pressure washer to knock any dirt and dust off and lube it with bearing grease.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtwolcot2 View Post
Yes that's it. It's a dust cover for the joint. I removed mine after seeing a lot of people remove them for clearance. I'm sure if you clean once in a while and keep it lubed it is fine. I'm just going to hit it mine with a pressure washer to knock any dirt and dust off and lube it with bearing grease.
Thank goodness! Thanks so much! Was worrying me. Now to tackle the springs then I will be ready for the Hot Rod Power Tour!
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:45 AM   #7
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my lower dust cover had to be removed also...the one that covers the universal joint
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