Drastically lowering IAT....

[coolhand5599]

Originally Posted by SC2150

Working on the first production of the super chiller for the Gen5 maggie/KB style super charger application. This uses the cars A/C compressor to cool the water-air intercooler fluid. So far seeing 20 degrees and lower (depending on the outside air temp, hotter the better it cools) temps when engaged. Has no effect on the power available when running on the track as at WOT the compressor disengages. No condensation drip when in the intercooler mode so safe for the track.

Machined the adaptor blocks for the Gen5 this weekend, and will post picks of each step. This is on the Disturbed Customs 2010SS shop car and will be available for release in the next 30 days if all goes well.

Will post up pics soon.
Update! We need another donor!!! Will do the install for free & less than 1/2 price on the system!!!!!

I have a c6 corvette with e force. Would be willing to see what this is about. Pm me if you are interested

[STS_CHILLER]

Originally Posted by coolhand5599

I have a c6 corvette with e force. Would be willing to see what this is about. Pm me if you are interested

Be glad to hook you up as well, C5 & C6 are on our to do. Make an appointment to drop off your car or call just to stop by, SC2150 has good history with the Corvettes. Like we have said this is a win win setup and non invasive to car. We have no time in a C6 Super Chiller but I’m sure from looking at our C5 NA that our goals can be met.

[vertc6]

Yes please do coolhand's vette!! I plan to do an eforce next year with this setup and I want the guys on the vette forum to see that this works. No one over there takes it very seriously, but I am going to prove them wrong.

[STS_CHILLER]

Originally Posted by vertc6

Yes please do coolhand's vette!! I plan to do an eforce next year with this setup and I want the guys on the vette forum to see that this works. No one over there takes it very seriously, but I am going to prove them wrong.

Thanks!
I don’t know how else to say it. It makes cold water, basically that’s it. Your using cold water to cool air instead of water above ambient temp. In hot weather it lowers water temp by 50 degrees on my GTO. The colder it is out the less difference it makes. So it just makes sense use your AC when its hot not when its cold. The IAT and HP benefits are to variable to quote but I think benefits are obvious. If OEM continues to go the Super Charger rout it would not surprise me to see this from factory.

[vertc6]

Exactly, I plan to run a closed system without a heat exchanger and replace with a 3 gallon tank. My thought is in the winter, lets say 45-50 degrees out, and I have the front compartment cut open to allow cold air directly to the intake, the cold air alone should keep the IATs well under 100 at 8 psi? I don't think I would need a H/E or chiller at that point. What are your thoughts?

And yes this will be the first thing I buy when I buy an Eforce. Can't wait to see the results!

[STS_CHILLER]

Originally Posted by vertc6

Exactly, I plan to run a closed system without a heat exchanger and replace with a 3 gallon tank. My thought is in the winter, lets say 45-50 degrees out, and I have the front compartment cut open to allow cold air directly to the intake, the cold air alone should keep the IATs well under 100 at 8 psi? I don't think I would need a H/E or chiller at that point. What are your thoughts?

And yes this will be the first thing I buy when I buy an Eforce. Can't wait to see the results!

You don’t need any extra water, that’s what I plan on doing as an example. I’m going to update my cam and leave front Heat Exchanger off. You just have to be sure to run AC! If you have a gauge for IAT or ICWT that would remind you. But I agree in winter your fine without it. I have gauges and checked both extremes I want to exchange the big GTO tank for the small one they use now.

[vertc6]

If I take out the H/E and just run the water in the system it would only be about a half gallon of water which would heat up very quickly in a race. If I run nearly 3.5 gallons it will take a few minutes to chill, but once it is cold it will take a lot longer to heat up. I plan to hit some road courses and I don't want it to be an issue not having enough water.

[STS_CHILLER]

Originally Posted by vertc6

If I take out the H/E and just run the water in the system it would only be about a half gallon of water which would heat up very quickly in a race. If I run nearly 3.5 gallons it will take a few minutes to chill, but once it is cold it will take a lot longer to heat up. I plan to hit some road courses and I don't want it to be an issue not having enough water.

Hmmm your comp would have to be running most of the time for a road coarse. The way water is cooled I’m still not sure you need a tank. I haven’t worked on that situation yet. You probably would program computer to turn AC off at xxxx RPM and not to turn off by throttle position. Or under drive comp, reason I say I would not want comp screaming all the time. You might consider our 12v stand alone system for something like that. Its pricy as the 12V comp is expensive, they just came out this year. The only drag on engine would be the alternator. Before everyone asks the 12V will not run cabin AC. It takes 24V min or 48V to cool the cabin. I was all excited when I found them, I thought I could eliminate the belt comp. but the BTU is not there on 12V. Most of your Hybrids run 130V+ AC comp.

[vertc6]

I have been talking to a lot of tuners and guys on the forum about this exact situation. It seems that no tuner is messing with the a/c comp adjusting when it turns off. Factory specs kick it off at WOT (with a delay of I think 6 sec. before kicking back on), when the freon psi goes above 413 or below 20 on the low side, and when the temp drops below a certain point (not sure of that particular temp). When you are on a road course most of the time you are between 3 and 6k rpm and only at peak for a few seconds at a time, then you break and go through corners. I know a lot of Ford guys have done it with no problems at all keeping the temps down all the way. From what I understand the new compressors are much more efficient and don't take much hp to turn them and they can be spun at high rpms with no problem. Some guys are running industrial 12a which is supposed to run cooler with even less stress on the compressor.

I look at the water issue just like a radiator, the more water capacity the better it will cool under high heat situations, and 1 gallons is going to heat up quick compared to 4 gallons.

[SC2150]

vertc6, you are correct. The road race driving would be ideal for this setup I believe as you only spend say 1/4 of the time at WOT and the compressor will be cycling on the rest of the time. Can't wait to see. You would also be a good candiate for the hyd clutch system that eliminates the pedal sticking. 1 qt remote resivoir with constanly recycling the fluid through a filtered cooler.

[STS_CHILLER]

Originally Posted by vertc6

I have been talking to a lot of tuners and guys on the forum about this exact situation. I look at the water issue just like a radiator, the more water capacity the better it will cool under high heat situations, and 1 gallons is going to heat up quick compared to 4 gallons.

Are you talking about a Comaro5 or a Vet? The camaro5 comp never cycles for low temp it is a variable output. The only time it cycles is for a problem or the TPS setting. I have not seen HPT for a camaro5 I keep asking for new version but… My GTO has TPS setting that does work in HPT and I can have it stay on at full TP it also has RPM on off and that works. Now not all functions work on every car, many many don’t work on GTO they show up but don’t apply. If you were only using the Super Chiller the comp would be at the least output setting so drag would be very very little. They are made to run at high RPMS its just personal experience. Some comp are very small and made to just scream! They have a small pulley. If you have your own HPT you could set AC for street or race all the time.
I’m not saying this applies but with AC the more air there is the more AC it takes. Side note all cars are going to a always on comp! Some are already out there, there is no clutch and the pump function is turned on off internally by computer. So if comp locks up your SOL

[vertc6]

Sorry I keep forgeting I am on the camaro forum, yes I was referring to the vette.

[vertc6]

Originally Posted by SC2150

vertc6, you are correct. The road race driving would be ideal for this setup I believe as you only spend say 1/4 of the time at WOT and the compressor will be cycling on the rest of the time. Can't wait to see. You would also be a good candiate for the hyd clutch system that eliminates the pedal sticking. 1 qt remote resivoir with constanly recycling the fluid through a filtered cooler.

What is a hyd clutch and what do you mean by pedal sticking? I have never heard of this please explain.

[SC2150]

Originally Posted by vertc6

What is a hyd clutch and what do you mean by pedal sticking? I have never heard of this please explain.

The Vette is what I was refering to. Just vertc6's application.

I assume yours is a MN6 trans? Do a search on CF on the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. The C5 & C6 vettes have had this issue during hard use since 1997 when first released. The fluid gets hot & dirty and during fast shifts (especially on road courses) the pedal will stick to the floor. This is another soluion we designed that eliminates this issue. Some of the 5th Gem camaro guys experiance this as well. We have a solution like no others but have not released it yet.