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Old 04-28-2019, 03:37 AM   #1
Bigalamo
 
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Starting Issue

Hello, I have an automatic 2011 LS Camaro. It had begun a starting issue out of the blue. Never showed issues of starting. One morning I put keys in ignition and tried to start, but nothing, not even starter click. When I turn key the gauge cluster lights turn off until I release and then all the accessories turn on. The messages that show up are “Service Stabil Trak”, “Open driver’s window”, and “Low fuel”. I tried to jumpstart, check starting fuses, check ground, tried spare key, put 10 more gallons in tank, and even tried to start in Neutral but nothing. I had battery and starter tested and they both tested good. I even bought a new battery and still the same issue. My local mechanic concluded that it is an issue with the keys.. he also said there was a recall for this. I looked up the VIN and it shows no recalls. I live in the U.K. for now, so no main Chevrolet dealers here.. Not sure what to do, doesn’t make sense, I’ve had this problem for a month. Any advice is welcome.

Are there any relays relevant to the fuel pump or starter that could be the issue?

Last edited by Bigalamo; 04-28-2019 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:49 PM   #2
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:21 PM   #3
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Your description of what is happening sounds like a dead battery. If your battery is truly good then I would look at your grounds back at the battery and in the engine compartment. If the grounds are good and clean I think a short in your starter circuit would be the next thing to look for. Put a voltage meter on your battery to see if the voltage drops really low when you try to start the car.
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:50 PM   #4
nancygrl
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The recall on the keys doesn't have anything to do with starting issues....It is for taking the switchblade option away by separating the key from the fob.

check the ground straps especially at the engine, as I recall there were issues where people had to add another ground to the engine block. also make sure all the power and ground connections are clean and tight and free of any corrosion.

Did you check fuses in the secondary fuse box location? (behind dashboard side cover, driver side)

Last edited by nancygrl; 05-03-2019 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 05-03-2019, 06:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazman View Post
Your description of what is happening sounds like a dead battery. If your battery is truly good then I would look at your grounds back at the battery and in the engine compartment. If the grounds are good and clean I think a short in your starter circuit would be the next thing to look for. Put a voltage meter on your battery to see if the voltage drops really low when you try to start the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nancygrl View Post
The recall on the keys doesn't have anything to do with starting issues....It is for taking the switchblade option away by separating the key from the fob.

check the ground straps especially at the engine, as I recall there were issues where people had to add another ground to the engine block. also make sure all the power and ground connections are clean and tight and free of any corrosion.

Did you check fuses in the secondary fuse box location? (behind dashboard side cover, driver side)
Thank you for your replies. The battery is brand new, it was just replaced.Also, I’ve checked the ground in the trunk as well as the fuses, but not the engine strap. I’ll check that out along with a voltage test.
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Old 05-04-2019, 07:04 AM   #6
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The Dreaded No Start Issue - common on these cars.
1. Disconnect Neg cable from battery for a few hours, reconnect and then try to start it.
2. Mash Accel Pedal to floor 4 times, try to start it.
3. Check Battery with a Volt Meter - 12+Volts required when not running, 14.5+ Volts running. Check it first in the car connected, or pull it out and any local Auto store can load test it before spending $$ to replace it. Always remove Negative cable first. You say it is "New" but that does not mean something caused it to drain voltage, or it is not charged properly. A battery can show good voltage, but fail a load test.
4. Check all wire harness connections, especially at the throttle body, and all grounds (battery neg cable at trunk, ground cable at engine to body, etc). Battery connections at the posts and trunk ground must be clean and tight, use Di-Electric grease to avoid corrosion and ensure a good connection. Key Ground wire checks: (Battery ground negative ground connection to trunk floor, large wire on the passenger side of the engine attached at the front of the head and near the abs block and a tiny wire on the drivers side of the engine near the coolant temp sensor. And, some TB codes will cause a no start condition. Never disconnect any harness connections without disconnecting the Neg cable at the battery. A window reset procedure will then be required, this is easily found in the forum.
5. Get a code reader to determine if there are any codes before spending $$ chasing issues and parts. If you get it running, any auto store (or Dealer) can read them for you.
6. Reprogram the key fob. Insert the key+fob, turn to ON position, let sit for 15 minutes (yes, the car will beep the chime the entire time). Turn to ACC position and wait for a few seconds. At this point that the dash lights flicker on and off for about 30 seconds. There may be a clicking type noise coming from the dash during this 30 seconds. Remove key, wait 5 seconds or so, and reinsert key. Start car.
7. There are lots of reasons for a no start or difficult start - VATs (https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=521315), dirty key (really - this happened to my son with a no start and was fixed simply by cleaning the key), Throttle body codes, dirty Throttle Body, grounded out wire harness, poor connection at alternator or bad alternator, heat fried starter, and on and on. Again - reading any codes may pinpoint the exact issue. Too many people replace the battery, Throttle Body, Accel Pedal sensors, Alternator, etc and find it does not fix the issue. MANY times it is just a poor ground connection.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=433174
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:56 AM   #7
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I checked all the stuff and it checked out good. I handed the keys over a to a shop that is good with electrics. They called and said they ran tests and concluded that the PCM is faulty. Doesn’t that include both the ECU and TCU?
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Old 10-11-2020, 08:00 PM   #8
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Try cleaning the 13 mm bolt and ground area in the trunk and see if that helps seems like it did wonders for mine.
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