Another Help Me Cam Swap Thread Lol

[Gearheaded]

Hey fellas, newbie here.

I've been researching like a nut for the last two weeks about changing the cam on my '14 SS. The more I read about guys and their swaps the more scared I become about reliability. Everything I've found is about guys making decent power and 5k-15k miles later their oil pump goes or valves float or whatever, and their engine pops.

Well surprisingly, I still want to do the swap in my car, I just want the supporting mods for reliability, so I've made a list of my build and was wondering if you guys could help me critique it or add a few things, ect.

I purchased a TSP 235/239 111LSA cam kit off a member here, and will hopefully be building it up for future to make it a H/C car. I will be doing the work myself along with my cousin. He has loads more experience than myself, as I've only ever built motorcycle engines for road racing.

The items with the " * " I've already purchased. Any extra advice to look out for is much appreciated. I'm using Robers's how-to as my general guide for the project.

Thanks guys!

Cam Thrust Plate W/New Gasket (BTR $20.00)
Katech C5R Timing Chain (BTR - $140.00)
LS2 Timing Damper (BTR $18.00)
Trunion upgrade (TSP $140.00)
Melling 10296 Oil Pump (TSP M296 - $160.00)
Crank Bolt (Summit 234-2503 $34.00)
Water Pump Gasket (Summit - $10.00/pair)
Timing Cover Gasket (Summit - $17.00)
Valve Cover Gaskets (Summit - $13.00/pair)
Lifters (TSP LS7 - $140.00)
Head Gasket (Summit - $50.00)
ARP Head Bolts (Summit - $130.00)

* Cam TSP 235/239
* Double springs
* 3 gear cam sprocket
* ARP cam bolts
* Pulley Puller
* Hardened Pushrods
* Loctite Red and Blue
* Assembly Oil
* RVT Blue
* 9qts Mobile 1
* Mob1 oil filter

[bionick]

Based off everything I've been told I wouldn't use Mobil 1 oil but that's me. Others will agree and others will disagree. I use joe Gibbs driven LS30 and wix filter. Also don't forget coolant lol

[Gearheaded]

I won't get into the oil debate. I will say that between the royal purple, amsoil, and mobile 1 I used to run in my Trans am I had them all studied and they all are very close in maintaining viscosity after 3k miles.

I've run mobile 1 for about 3 years now in my Race bikes and have never had an issue.

[Soybeanrice]

If you don't plan on taking off the heads, don't get new lifters, head bolts or head gaskets. Youre probably fine reusing the valve cover gasket too. Do get new water pump and timing cover gaskets. Everything else I didn't mention on your list, you should get.

I'm sure your engine has low enough miles to reuse the lifters...

[Hard Parker]

I would speak to a performance shop or whoever you plan to tune it and have them put a parts list together

[Gearheaded]

I actually considered lifters just because of longevity.

As for performance shops around here.... Yea no...

[LSX Camaro]

What springs did you get? You should replace the oil pump O-ring when the pump is off. I would also consider the Johnson Lifters from BTR.

[762ch]

Don't forget Headers, intake and do your self a favor do not use Mobil 1. Use a quality oil that can cope with the added stresses of that cam. I like Joe Gibbs ls30 for my cammed ls3. Maybe ask Texas Speed what they recommend for oil.

Also how do you plan on tuning? Don't forget coolant, sparkplugs and antisieze. You will need a longer bolt and some creative spacers to install the ballancer.

If you want to make life easier, take the car to get the refrigerant removed so you can take the ac condensor out. It's easier then trying to wrangle it around without breaking open the lines. Also pull the bumper off, it only takes a few mins and its great being able to work from the front rather than the top of the engine.

I did my cam swap by myself, it took 2 days because I was doing it in my free time after work during the week. But I have a fully loaded shop and a lift to work out of, no way would I do it without airtools. I'm spoiled now!

Good luck, don't forget to post a video.

[62nalide]

Stick or auto?

[Gearheaded]

Originally Posted by LSX Camaro

What springs did you get? You should replace the oil pump O-ring when the pump is off. I would also consider the Johnson Lifters from BTR.

I will probably go with TSP LS7 lifters. The kit came with the .660 double springs

Originally Posted by 762ch

Don't forget Headers, intake and do your self a favor do not use Mobil 1. Use a quality oil that can cope with the added stresses of that cam. I like Joe Gibbs ls30 for my cammed ls3. Maybe ask Texas Speed what they recommend for oil.

Also how do you plan on tuning? Don't forget coolant, sparkplugs and antisieze. You will need a longer bolt and some creative spacers to install the ballancer.

If you want to make life easier, take the car to get the refrigerant removed so you can take the ac condensor out. It's easier then trying to wrangle it around without breaking open the lines. Also pull the bumper off, it only takes a few mins and its great being able to work from the front rather than the top of the engine.

I did my cam swap by myself, it took 2 days because I was doing it in my free time after work during the week. But I have a fully loaded shop and a lift to work out of, no way would I do it without airtools. I'm spoiled now!

Good luck, don't forget to post a video.

The car already had Kooks LT's, a Rotofab CAI, and a SCT handheld on it. The guy doing the tune used to teach at SCT. I have the coolant, anti-seize and all that already. I won't be pulling the AC because I don't trust any local shops to recharge, and the dealers here are insane. I'm not paying 500$ for refrigerant lol.

[Gearheaded]

It's a 6spd

[Soybeanrice]

I'm wondering what you guys used antisieze for? I bought it when I was doing my swap and never ended up using it. Not even for the spark plugs or the o2 sensors. I also read that using assembly lube on the rocker studs was a big nono as the paste will expand and crack the stud? In the end I used oil for almost everything. The only "liquids" i ended up using was blue/red loctite and the gasket maker for the timing cover.

Make sure the oil pump is flush with the pickup tube. It will require some persuasion and patience.
Also, the ls7 lifters are the same part as the ls3.

If youre leaving the heads on and the engine in the car, the back springs will be a super pain to get to. Make sure you have a good tool (i had to fabricate one) to get the springs off and on.

[07-SRT]

Originally Posted by bionick

Based off everything I've been told I wouldn't use Mobil 1 oil but that's me. Others will agree and others will disagree. I use joe Gibbs driven LS30 and wix filter. Also don't forget coolant lol

I agree on the Mobil 1 , however if someone is going to use it just add Zinc

[Bodywerks]

Originally Posted by LSX Camaro

What springs did you get? You should replace the oil pump O-ring when the pump is off. I would also consider the Johnson Lifters from BTR.

If he gets the oil pump it will come with the o ring.
I also agree that if you are looking to replace lifters might as well 'upgrade'. Many will say that a lifter is a lifter. I disagree. The Johnson 2110 lifters(don't have to come from BTR but their service is top notch, and you want to go with his springs anyway - BTR660) are slow leak-rate lifters. OK, maybe you'll never know the difference, performance wise. But the kicker is that their optima preload is half that of LS7 lifters, at .035ish. What this amounts to is WAY less likelihood of smacking valves on an accidental over-revv(which is very possible on a manual transmission), because a fully pumped 2110 lifter will still not displace the valve enough to overcome the relatively standard .070 PTV clearance(on intake), whereas a fully pumped LS7 lifter will. That's piece of mind enough for me! If you do decide on lifters, get new lifter trays. They do wear out, and are only $28 for the set of 4.
Also, since you're considering pulling the heads anyway, might as well get some ported heads. I mean, if you went GMPP ported heads and then sold yours on ebay, this would only be a $500 or so additional cost for what seems to amount to about 15 more horsepower. aftermarket casting heads with improved PTV can run smaller chambers for a little compression bump and tend to provide even more power. I'd say my 65cc PRC255 heads are responsible for about 20-22 HP of my build...
Also, go with the ARP crank bolt. It's re-usable and stronger. The GM unit is TTY and therefore one-time use.