OEM battery / Service stabilitrak issue

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

Having ruled out battery voltage, you should be looking at the wheel speed sensors and associated wiring.

Really I think it's dealer time, where diagnostics will pinpoint the problem right quick.

Why pay for the cow when you can get the milk for free?

My friend has a snap-on diagnostic scanner so we hooked that up to it real quick this weekend. It says its the left rear wheel sensor, so got one of those on order now! Hope that fixes the issue

[dnelson]

Originally Posted by hesster

Any vehicle with the battery located remotely, like the trunk, obviously works much harder to crank the engine. Even more so when hot, due to the added resistance. Your OEM battery may show voltage above 12v, but after 8 years it is tired and sulfonated. It will set CEL's/Codes and cause problems. These may have no performance impact, or they MAY with TC and throttle issues. Codes should be cleared, and battery replaced if it is the root cause.
"Sulfation, a build-up of lead sulfate crystals, is the number one cause of early failures of lead-acid, sealed AGM or flooded (wet cell-filler caps) batteries. A sulfated battery can lead to loss of cranking power and longer charging times."
Many newer battery Chargers now have a "Battery Reconditioning" feature which pulse charges the battery to break up Sulfation, and add some additional output and life to a battery. Almost all auto supply stores can also power test a battery to determine need for replacement.
Another key factor is clean connections and additional grounds. Our Camaro battery ground in the trunk is not the best, I highly recommend adding an additional cable from the driver side head to the frame (Blue Cable in Pics).
There are a gazillion posts on the site about batteries, but a good quality AGM or Glass Mat Battery is worth the additional $$$. BTW - I still run my OEM Battery, but keep it trickle charged all the time. I ran a simple Trickle Charge Power Tap in the trunk (plugged in, lower left in the Pic) to avoid the hassle of pulling out the trunk cover and guts. The Odyssey Battery is used to run my LEDs and Bling stuff independent of the Main Battery, and also has a Trickle Tap (not plugged in in the pic). I also keep a SCTX4 on hand to clear codes on the fly, cause sooner or later, they show up for some reason.

That ported trickle charge looks nice. Did you follow a guide to do that or just do it yourself?

[hesster]

dnelson -
I simply cut off the battery post clamps on the harness extension that comes with the Trickle Charger, crimped on some ring terminals, and hard wired them to existing bolts/nuts on the main battery posts. Cut a small hole in the trunk rear trim hard cover and added a grommet, then fished the wires through it until the connection port was flush, then a few dabs of Epoxy to lock it in position. The extension harness was carefully routed and secured with enough slack and wire loom and zip ties to assure there are no pinch points. If the harness wiring needs to be extended, then solder and insulate all connections as you sure don't want any shorts. The red box in front of the Battery is my MSD Fuel Pump Controller for the Whipple Blower.
This Mod eliminates the hassle of pulling out the cover and all of the trunk guts, and then it takes just seconds to plug it in for charging. Keeping the battery on the Tender along with the additional ground cable from the engine to the frame makes for immediate starts and I think extends battery life, as I am still using my 8 year old OEM Battery even though I have a new Exide AGM Battery as a spare ready to go in when necessary.

[Spurshot]

Check the voltage on the main buss in the fuse block and compare to the battery voltage. You should not have a lot of V drop. If you do, cables and electrical bonds at terminals may be the culprit. I've seen battery cables corroded under the insulation.

[dnelson]

Hesster thanks for the detailed description. I'm gonna try to do this soon. Tired of ripping my trunk apart just to give it a charge.

[Rock-It Man]

Originally Posted by dnelson

Hesster thanks for the detailed description. I'm gonna try to do this soon. Tired of ripping my trunk apart just to give it a charge.

I like the mod, too.

But you should be aware that there are terminals under the hood for battery charging. No need to go into the trunk.

[darcycook]

Originally Posted by hesster

Any vehicle with the battery located remotely, like the trunk, obviously works much harder to crank the engine. Even more so when hot, due to the added resistance. Your OEM battery may show voltage above 12v, but after 8 years it is tired and sulfonated. It will set CEL's/Codes and cause problems. These may have no performance impact, or they MAY with TC and throttle issues. Codes should be cleared, and battery replaced if it is the root cause.
"Sulfation, a build-up of lead sulfate crystals, is the number one cause of early failures of lead-acid, sealed AGM or flooded (wet cell-filler caps) batteries. A sulfated battery can lead to loss of cranking power and longer charging times."
Many newer battery Chargers now have a "Battery Reconditioning" feature which pulse charges the battery to break up Sulfation, and add some additional output and life to a battery. Almost all auto supply stores can also power test a battery to determine need for replacement.
Another key factor is clean connections and additional grounds. Our Camaro battery ground in the trunk is not the best, I highly recommend adding an additional cable from the driver side head to the frame (Blue Cable in Pics).
There are a gazillion posts on the site about batteries, but a good quality AGM or Glass Mat Battery is worth the additional $$$. BTW - I still run my OEM Battery, but keep it trickle charged all the time. I ran a simple Trickle Charge Power Tap in the trunk (plugged in, lower left in the Pic) to avoid the hassle of pulling out the trunk cover and guts. The Odyssey Battery is used to run my LEDs and Bling stuff independent of the Main Battery, and also has a Trickle Tap (not plugged in in the pic). I also keep a SCTX4 on hand to clear codes on the fly, cause sooner or later, they show up for some reason.

i just deconected my battery ground ( first time ever disconnected battery)when changing steering wheel ,now the 3 lights and the service massage. so can i get more info. the extra ground were and how ? i 65 bought the camaro brand new . no winter driveling have a truck for that thanks

[alice]

Several months ago, I purchased a newly lithium Ion battery from AntiGravity Batteries. Though expensive, it's well worth it. The battery has a built in battery management system, as well as a remote starting capability if for some reason the batter goes dead. Never need a jump, ever. It comes with a battery tracker that monitors all voltage and charging characteristics via your smart phone! Tons of addition features you can read about on their website:
antigravitybatteries.com

This battery puts out 13.2 volts at the buss and the starter spins like never before. Engine starts are immediate and the difference is absolute!! Lasts about 9-10 years. And the weight difference is about 50 pounds!! This battery is so light that it is unbelievable that it has the performance that it does. Check it out! Love it!

And for those wondering what those tubes are on the left and right of the battery, it is my water/meth injection tank.

[FasNuf]

I did something similar, but pushed the Tender connector out a grommet in the bottom of the trunk. Now when I get home, I just reach under and plug it in. No need to open the trunk. I do have to bend down and reach under the car though, so I guess it depends on your preference.

[FasNuf]

[QUOTE=alice;10845048]Several months ago, I purchased a newly lithium Ion battery from AntiGravity Batteries. Though expensive, it's well worth it.

HOLY CRAP! Thats damn expensive!! $650-$950 depending on Amp Hr!!

[ybnormal70]

Mine has been doing the service stabilitrak and the 3 lights. To fix that after a slow start, I shut the car off, unplug the maf sensor and plug it back in. Then start the car and all is fixed. Not sure why, but after the lights come on they wouldn't seem to go back off unless I unplug the maf. Just my 2c.

Kevin

[darcycook]

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

So I will start by saying that my car has been slow cranking sometimes before starting. Not really slow, just not 100%. At first I thought it was starter heat soak, but I quickly realized that's not the case.

Last weekend, it started fine to move it over in the garage to do the rear diff swap. Afterwards when I started it, it was again slow to crank and then the service stabilitrak message popped up, as well as 3 lights under the speedo. Appears TC and stabilitrak are off, but car still seems to be running fine. I wouldn't think anything we did during swap would cause this.


I am reading and it appears this could possibly be just a battery going bad? I charged it up and 2 days later it showed 12.7 volts. Started car today and it was faster with charged battery, but still saying service stabilitrak.

I can't find a date on the battery anywhere that says how old it i. Makes me wonder if its OEM, but that's a long run for a battery. Just don't want to replace it if that's not going to fix the issue as batteries aren't cheap. But I am leaning toward that being the problem. Here is a pic of the battery pulled from car.

i have this problem after disconecting the negative post to put on a new steering wheel ? did the add ground cable fix? or new battery?

[darcycook]

I going to take to a dealer get a advanced code reading the cheep ones read no code