2014 SIM 1SS/1LE Search & Build Thread

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by demonspeed

Awesome! I'm bringing another guy who has a 5th gen that does a ton of autocross. I understand the event is sold out, so I'm guessing it'll be packed comparatively to this last time especially if the weather holds out.

I don't have a lot for suspension yet: Hotchkis 1" springs (87k miles on OE 1LE shocks/struts...), Hendrix offset diff & solid cradle bushings, and UMI rod-end toe & trailing arms. I'm also on a set of Supercar 3's (305's in the rear) and running the "aggressive street" alignment specs that have floated around the forum forever.

On the 2nd, I was running fluid of unknown date or type along with OE rotors and Wilwood pads (not sure which type). For the 30th I'll have RL600 with separate reservoirs (I've got the GTO one; however, I have the Tilton 6.8oz setup to go on once I get the bracket thing figured out....), Stop Tech lines, Stop Tech high-carbon rotors, and ST43's.

Good to hear more Gen5s coming to play, the Gen6s are fast!

When tracking a Gen5/6, the biggest safety variable is brake fluid. You got lucky with the boiling at the last event. You cannot use the brakes to their highest ability until you are confident in them. Been there, done that. While I've never boiled them or faded a pad, I have had Ice Mode and ABS engagement but they were manageable and did not have the same risk like boiled fluid will. The ST43s will run hot. Of course this depends on your straightaway speeds and technique. There are many thing you can do to manage that heat successfully. Brake fluid maintenance and cooling is at the top of the list.

[demonspeed]

You’re in 4th gear most of the time? You in competitive mode or full off?

[cdb95z28]

I used to run in Competitive Mode, but I turn everything off now. I had gotten to a point where I could feel the car pinching a rear brake to settle it. And ultimately it was slowing me down. I was confident in the car and my abilities to shut it off. My setup is poised and stable. I can alter the balance with small changes. The Z/28 DSSV shocks allow aggressive inputs.

Here's my shifting

Into 4th on front stretch
down to 3rd entering 1
up to 4th right at turn 2
down to 3rd into 3
up to 4th after turn 6
down to 3rd entering 7
up to 4th before 15
down to 3rd entering 17
up to 4th right at turn 19

Running 3rd gear from 7 to 15 can make the car more on edge. You are in more of the torque, so the power delivery will be more abrupt if you are not ginger with the throttle. I have run 4th gear in that section in the past. You can run 4th there to allow the car to be a little bit more settled, which might be better for a newer driver. Once you get comfortable and know how the car behaves, then you can play in 3rd gear. Also, running third gear will make the car move around more, which, if you get a great understanding of the proper weight transfer, this can be used to your advantage. Expect oil temps to rise with running more third gear.

[cdb95z28]

I've tried 2nd gear at turns 5 and 17. the problem is I'm upshifting into 3 while I'm turning. At the exit of 18 this is not too bad, but I don't feel it is a big time saver. I don't know, maybe I need to play with it some more.

Doing 2nd gear on the entry of 5 requires an upshift with a lot of lateral loading on exit of 6, which is a tight enough turn as it is with putting power down. Lots of g forces here to and it makes it difficult to do the shift.

My thought on 5/6 was just to carry more speed thru there to keep the revs up so it will pull better. Now, your car with the power mods might pull great out of there in 3rd. Depends on if you increased the torque at those RPMs.

[demonspeed]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

I've tried 2nd gear at turns 5 and 17. the problem is I'm upshifting into 3 while I'm turning. At the exit of 18 this is not too bad, but I don't feel it is a big time saver. I don't know, maybe I need to play with it some more.

THIS. Granted, I've only been on this track once, but that was what I was trying to figure out with 5 and 17. My power comes on most strong above 3000-3500, so I found myself walking a fine line. Definitely appreciate you sharing your details.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by demonspeed

THIS. Granted, I've only been on this track once, but that was what I was trying to figure out with 5 and 17. My power comes on most strong above 3000-3500, so I found myself walking a fine line. Definitely appreciate you sharing your details.

[cdb95z28]

ZL1 1LE Radius Rods with my previously installed caster blocks equals 9.2* of caster combined with -2.2* camber.

[cdb95z28]

I also installed the Baer Tracker Bump Steer kit. Unfortunately neither Baer or LSR make the correct kit for the 2014/15 Camaro 1LE and Z/28 which have a bigger 16mm tie rod. So I had a machine/fab shop that does work for my employer drill and tap to the correct thread size of 16mm x 1.5mm. I did the kit before I added the ZLE radius rods. My caster before was 7.2* and with the bump steer kit, the steering felt a little like a Gen6 SS 1LE.

But once I added the ZLE radius rods, the bump steer increased and my bump steer kit was already maxed out. It doesn't feel bad, it feels like before I did the bump steer kit.

The advantage of more caster is that caster helps the dynamic camber on both the loaded and unloaded front tires in a turn. For example, in a left turn, the RF tire is the loaded tire. Caster will add negative camber to this tire, which is what we want.

The unloaded tire, the LF, needs negative camber removed, and caster will help the tire go towards positive camber, which is what we want.

[h018871]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

The advantage of more caster is that caster helps the dynamic camber on both the loaded and unloaded front tires in a turn. For example, in a left turn, the RF tire is the loaded tire. Caster will add negative camber to this tire, which is what we want.

The unloaded tire, the LF, needs negative camber removed, and caster will help the tire go towards positive camber, which is what we want.

^^this^^

really helps with the front tire wear too!

[AG1LE]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

ZL1 1LE Radius Rods with my previously installed caster blocks equals 9.2* of caster.
Attachment 1044968

What's the part number on these? I think I bought a set a while back, but not sure I received the right version and they've just sat around ever since...need to check.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by AG1LE

What's the part number on these? I think I bought a set a while back, but not sure I received the right version and they've just sat around ever since...need to check.

Gen6 ZL1 1LE (FEA) Front Radius Rods, Part#s 84051644/84051643

[SS Performance]

Doesn't using the 6th gen arms pull the tire forward in the wheel well? I thought about doing this but was worried about tire clearance. How is your clearance and what size tires are you running?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by SS Performance

Doesn't using the 6th gen arms pull the tire forward in the wheel well? I thought about doing this but was worried about tire clearance. How is your clearance and what size tires are you running?

Yes, it will pull the wheel/tire assembly towards the front of the wheel opening. I have no rubbing or clearance issues with 305/30-19 3R Goodyears. But, I have not confirmed any clearance issues with the OE 20" wheels/tires or with 325/30-19 fronts.
Here is a pic I just took with the ZLE radius rods at -2.9* camber and +9.0 caster. I lost .2* of caster going from -2.2* camber to -2.9* :



And here is last month, before the ZLE radius rods, but with the same caster blocks that put the caster at +7.2:

[cdb95z28]

There are alot of geometry changes going on with this major change in caster. As you can see the wheelbase has actually increased. I have to read up on how this affects the balance of the car.

Also, I think we shouldn't go any more caster than what I have. The lower control arm is pulled forward a fair amount. This may compromise its bushing. I am also going to look at the upper strut mount and make sure I am not hurting the Vorshlag spherical bearing.

The car seems to have a more progressive loading of the tires when I give a lot of input in tighter turns. In the past with the caster at +7.2* or lower and high camber, I could feel the grip increase rather quickly with more steering input. Today with the -2.9* of camber, the grip increase was more linear. Only track time will validate whether there is more overall grip.