Spun bearing

[Triple5even813]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

My mistake: stuffing too much into one sentence. I did not mean to infer that a 416 can handle more rpm's...just more hp. If op is to replace the engine...I would most likely go with a 416. Nothing against the LSA...I love mine.

As far as higher rpm's: I've had engineering courses, and remain interested in it. It is a proven fact that higher rpm's will deteriorate the parts quicker than lower rpm's. I'd like to see how many Voodoos and Coyotes make it to 100k miles. So many have exploded or failed already. I doubt Ford has it right...maybe better...with the Predator.

Just sayin': I too was after high hp AND longevity. Hopefully I have it. But if I were to regularly push (7k rpm's and WOT in my quest to go faster) my Z, I would probably go for a 416 (more durable, more hp, but again not more rpm's)...or a COPO.

10-4. High HP on the stock rotating assembly & bearings is a gamble. Some win, some lose. A forged short block is definitely in my future. Hopefully before a failure that damages adjacent components like the heads. You really cant underestimate the importance of maintenance, a good tune, good driving habits, and understanding what is going on inside the engine and how the parts you're bolting on will affect it beyond "more air, more fuel, more power".

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by Triple5even813

10-4. High HP on the stock rotating assembly & bearings is a gamble. Some win, some lose. A forged short block is definitely in my future. Hopefully before a failure that damages adjacent components like the heads. You really cant underestimate the importance of maintenance, a good tune, good driving habits, and understanding what is going on inside the engine and how the parts you're bolting on will affect it beyond "more air, more fuel, more power".

You’re running the power in your sig on stock block. Is mind blowing. I need to hit up your tuner and take some notes from you. Lol I’m looking to just get high 700’s. Low 800’s and be happy. But I want somewhat reliability. I know beating on the car and mods play a huge factor I just feel like these cars can handle my power goals of 775-800 and maintain it. That’s why I bought it. I just need to know what to upgrade to handle it. I feel like the LSA can handle it with the right parts. .

[Triple5even813]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Hmm crazy. Maybe it’s something in my tune. Bc you’re at 50+ whp more than I am. Same oil. Etc. Never over heated the oil til that night it never saw over 200* maybe 210-220* for very small times.
I may have done high TQ at low RPMs bc I’ve gotten on it down low. Just enjoying my car. Didn’t know that was bad..? Care to explain why.

The oil pump is driven by the crank. So when you put a heavy load on the bearings at low RPMs, the crank is not spinning fast enough to supply the bearings with enough oil. The bearings experience oil starvation and you have metal to metal contact because there is an inadequate hydraulic cushion to absorb the heavy load.

Originally Posted by Astatenate

What is factory shift point? I spoke with my tuner @ GPI about that. And he said he sets every bolt on e85 ZL1 at 7,000. Ported blower. Big cam 7400. I just felt like that was ridiculously high. I’d like to try out the VR1 20-50 and turn down my shift point. Back to 6500-6700 or so. I believe is the factory shift point. As well as let the crank case breath more.

Factory is 6200. GPI likes to rev these engines out to extreme numbers, but they have a good reputation, and are known for having some of the fastest 5th gens out there running their parts. They've gone 8s N/A in a SBE 5th gen. And I think they may be revving that car past 8k, although I can't be sure of details beyond what I recall seeing in youtube vids. I would imagine that the fastest ones are not running the stock computer, have a built auto trans, solid rear axle, back-halfed, tube front, lexan windows, gutted interior, etc etc etc. I'm not even sure if the E67 ECU will support RPMs beyond 7k? In any case, GPI is known for fast stuff, so whatever they are doing is producing results. I just can't speak to specifics.

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Triple5even813

You really cant underestimate the importance of maintenance, a good tune, good driving habits, and understanding what is going on inside the engine and how the parts you're bolting on will affect it beyond "more air, more fuel, more power".

Right on. Btw, you have just slightly more boost and hp than me.

[Triple5even813]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Right on. Btw, you have just slightly more boost and hp than me.

800whp is the new 500whp LOL

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Triple5even813

800whp is the new 500whp LOL

Yeah, but slip and slide is the game above that without proper tire sizing and compound. I have 17" MT R's and still cannot harness all the power. I kind of dread going to 15's. What are you running when the weather cooperates?

[Triple5even813]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

You’re running the power in your sig on stock block. Is mind blowing. I need to hit up your tuner and take some notes from you. Lol I’m looking to just get high 700’s. Low 800’s and be happy. But I want somewhat reliability. I know beating on the car and mods play a huge factor I just feel like these cars can handle my power goals of 775-800 and maintain it. That’s why I bought it. I just need to know what to upgrade to handle it. I feel like the LSA can handle it with the right parts. .

Yeah, I have a tough little motor for sure. She has taken a lot of abuse and hasn't bit me yet, knock on wood. CHenry's thing is making the car safe and dailyable/streetable. And it's definitely that. I have a baby custom cam from them, but it's making more power, with a flatter torque curve than many "off the shelf" big lumpy bumpy sticks that chop hard and turn heads, but don't really make much steam... If you want more details, we can DM so as not to derail the thread, but suffice it to say that I am happy with our relationship and what we've built together.

[Triple5even813]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Yeah, but slip and slide is the game above that without proper tire sizing and compound. I have 17" MT R's and still cannot harness all the power. I kind of dread going to 15's. What are you running when the weather cooperates?

MT 275/60R15 Radial Pros at 15psi is working for me. Had it at the track this weekend and the car did not spin or step out of line once. It wads the tire up like a bias ply slick and just goes.

[diddies]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Hmm should I need a new block. I will for sure look into the 416. Will that short block work with my stock heads? I mean I know they’ll bolt right up. I mean. Will they compliment each other or will I be needing to port the heads if I do the 416?



Hmm crazy. Maybe it’s something in my tune. Bc you’re at 50+ whp more than I am. Same oil. Etc. Never over heated the oil til that night it never saw over 200* maybe 210-220* for very small times.
I may have done high TQ at low RPMs bc I’ve gotten on it down low. Just enjoying my car. Didn’t know that was bad..? Care to explain why.



What is factory shift point? I spoke with my tuner @ GPI about that. And he said he sets every bolt on e85 ZL1 at 7,000. Ported blower. Big cam 7400. I just felt like that was ridiculously high. I’d like to try out the VR1 20-50 and turn down my shift point. Back to 6500-6700 or so. I believe is the factory shift point. As well as let the crank case breath more.



Great. Thank you for the input. I’ll check 416 out.

The factory shift point was 6200 and my tuner set it to 6400

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by diddies

The factory shift point was 6200 and my tuner set it to 6400

I think once put back together I’m gonna have him set it back down to 6200-6500 for sure. I know that last 500 to 7000 has to be a lot on that motor.

[Astatenate]

So vote yes or no to upgrading the oil pump? Yay or nay? It seems useless with factory oil pan.

Just rebuild it back stronger w/ better bearings if block / crank is salvageable. If not, I’ll go 416.

SS3 GPI cam is going in no matter what (416 or rebuilding my LSA)

And switch to VR1 20-50 or stick with a good quality 5w30? I mean the car is not daily driven. So a thicker weight oil for track use is recommended so I’d at least like to step it up a little.

[silversleeper]

I would vote to keep stock pump and a good ?W40 oil. That's what I'm going to start running in the LSA. I'd go with the VR1 if I was running only track (or just driving to and from the track not as a mixed street use).
For example this recent post
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=34
Or consider this as less specific information:

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

I would vote to keep stock pump and a good ?W40 oil. That's what I'm going to start running in the LSA. I'd go with the VR1 if I was running only track (or just driving to and from the track not as a mixed street use).
For example this recent post
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=34
Or consider this as less specific information:

Hmm good info there! Thank you!

[Bigtime53]

I cannot express this enough STAY AWAY FROM PENNZOIL!!!! Maybe some of you like that oil but not me. I have had catastrophic damage to motors in the past with this oil. I do not know about the synthetic oil but just having pennzoil on the bottle scares me away from it.