Spun bearing

[Weatherz]

I’ll list my mods for context.
Intake, Headers, balancer w/ 28% lower, Afco HX, Expansion tank, plugs, complete btr3 cam kit (springs,trunnions,pushrods, Katech c5r chain, solid tensioner), 850cc injectors. Just for reference my car (m6) made 664/645 on stock heads and blower @ 12lbs boost.
I get all of my work done at a very reputable shop just sucks to see I could have done a couple extra things. My catch can is only a 2 port, I kept stock oil pump, from what I understood it was ample as the LSA pump is already higher output vs an LS3. My redline is set at 7k, tuner told me the car is happy to be ran up in the revs. Only thing there is the shop owner mentioned lighter valves are definitely better in a CNC ported head but I didn’t want to dish out the cash at this power level.
My car runs well, I’m taking it back for a couple little things this year...reinforce the brick, Kong low vacuum bypass valve, a resonated x pipe.

[Weatherz]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Need not have any anxiety with the LSA...nor reading here. A little comprehension...perhaps inference is necessary some of the time as the whole story is not always posted.

The LSA is insanely stout, and can take a lot more power. But a proper build and tuner is a must, and the hp, boost and rev's must all be limited if you desire longevity.

Luckily I know most of the history with my car as I have had it since it had 4000km on the odometer. I plan on keeping it for a long time, just want it to live. I have enjoyed modding the car just don’t have 10k plus for a new motor.

[CJ27]

Originally Posted by Weatherz

Best of luck on it going forward, that’s a super shitty deal. Interested to see what failed and what direction you are taking in the future. Lots of different routes on this thread which is what I like and dislike about this forum..so many different people with different builds. Sucks to read some of these and see that I may have potentially missed good bolt-ons on my car. I like my Z but I feel like as soon as you touch anything on it there is a 100 parts that “should” go on for it to be safe. Some days I wish I had a C6Z with heads/cam that I never have to worry about..couple of my friends have them and they are insanely stout. I’ve seen a lot of guys running modded LSA’s without issue just gives me anxiety reading these posts.

The new built engine is great. The last shop I used prior to this new place did my cam and it never was right. Idk what they got wrong but I would hear valve rattle at times and they assured me it was just common for cammed lsa. The back of my mind told me this was bs but I did not pursue it. The car runs and drives great now. I am having to replace the idler pulley that takes the place of the power steering pump but other then that I highly recommend to anyone in the dfw area to use dedicated motorsports in Weatherford. His tuning is top notch and the work is wonderful. I have not had to go back and redo or fix anything as I did with the last shop several times.

[Astatenate]

Well it’s been a long wait process because of COVID and shops being backed up. But I had engine dropped off at a local performance engine shop - their findings thus far is that the crank is bent, #4 main cap bad, 2 main bearings bad, #5 and #6 rod bearings bad. From what he said he doesn’t think the block is salvageable. But isn’t 100% sure yet. Fingers crossed it is ok. If so, I’ll just upgrade to forged rotating assembly, stage 3 cam, and put the motor back together. It’ll be rated for 1100hp and I only plan to be around 800.

So if block is toast, what would my options be, as the LSA block is no longer in production. And I don’t plan on going turbos or big SC so 416/427 are kinda outta the question.

If block isn’t toast. What is a good quality, reasonably priced 376 forged rotating assembly brand / price?

[Ds98formula]

They are pretty commonly used in the Fbody world.

https://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/...iamnd-frgd-pis

[morepowerjoe]

I know I have a totally different engine being a l99 but just wanted to let you know my experience with the 10355hv oil pump. I had low idle oil pressure at 15 psi with the 10295hp pump. So I decided to go with the 10355hv pump and went to almost 30 psi at idle when hot and 50-60 psi at cruising anything over 1500 rpm. I also plugged the oil bypass relief valve. Just wanted to let you know.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

I know I have a totally different engine being a l99 but just wanted to let you know my experience with the 10355hv oil pump. I had low idle oil pressure at 15 psi with the 10295hp pump. So I decided to go with the 10355hv pump and went to almost 30 psi at idle when hot and 50-60 psi at cruising anything over 1500 rpm. I also plugged the oil bypass relief valve. Just wanted to let you know.

Thanks bro! I am hoping for no block damage. Or at least repairable block damage. But I guess I’ll be looking at fully forged rotating assembly, stage 3 cam and HV oil pump. With VR1 oil. And vented crank case and catch can.

[Happy_Dan]

Just something to remember about VR1. It is racing oil. It does not have detergents in it and you will have sludge build up over time.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Happy_Dan

Just something to remember about VR1. It is racing oil. It does not have detergents in it and you will have sludge build up over time.

Redline or Joe Gibbs LS is the way to go in my book.

[Astatenate]

Hmm some local LS racers was saying VR1 was good because it’ll take the E85 breakdown better.

[Bartbart]

Originally Posted by rednecks70

How did you catch it? Low oil pressure? Just want to know what to look for.

I went through this. 12K$. Upgrade other parts while engine is pulled apart. Broken rocker can cause same symptoms. Pins flow with oil and keeps oil from circulating

[Bartbart]

Originally Posted by CJ27

The new built engine is great. The last shop I used prior to this new place did my cam and it never was right. Idk what they got wrong but I would hear valve rattle at times and they assured me it was just common for cammed lsa. The back of my mind told me this was bs but I did not pursue it. The car runs and drives great now. I am having to replace the idler pulley that takes the place of the power steering pump but other then that I highly recommend to anyone in the dfw area to use dedicated motorsports in Weatherford. His tuning is top notch and the work is wonderful. I have not had to go back and redo or fix anything as I did with the last shop several times.

Valve springs should b shimmed.

[Happy_Dan]

Key word there is racers. VR1 is racing oil and is great. It just doesn't have detergent because race engines are rebuilt more often and thus cleaned. Regular oil has detergents to prevent the sludge. I am no expert and probably much more knowledge here but I was using VR1 in my 68 327 that is in my truck because of the zinc and I was told about the sludge.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Happy_Dan

Key word there is racers. VR1 is racing oil and is great. It just doesn't have detergent because race engines are rebuilt more often and thus cleaned. Regular oil has detergents to prevent the sludge. I am no expert and probably much more knowledge here but I was using VR1 in my 68 327 that is in my truck because of the zinc and I was told about the sludge.

Was down at the Detroit Grand Prix and had some time with Chevy racing manager and team lead for Mobil 1. New 0w 40 for C8 because of the amount of track days, will be in Blackwing as well. After going over my motor it was highly suggested I run it as well. Will see...