do's and dont's of owning new camaro - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

lalometalik · 10-15-2008, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babyjulie83

Thanks everyone for your help. There will definately not be any drinking and driving.....I don't even do that in my Buick regal.... a taxi cab is way cheaper than a DUI.

I've already had alot of people (esp in my family) that have already asked to drive the camaro when I get it....I said no way in hell.......

I've also decided that the camaro will not be making any trips to walmart with me......everytime i'm there it seems I get scratches on my car......i'll take the buick for that....

haha thanks for the wal-mart tip

fastfret7 · 10-15-2008, 01:06 PM

I have always varied my RPMs for about the first 100 or so miles and than took it easy for about the first 1000 to 1500 miles. After that it is really good to open it up maybe on a round track or a long road. One thing is for sure, it is going to be really hard not to burn the tires of the back of it.

Has anyone used that Mr. Clean hand free wash? Since I'm getting a black camaro I'm going to use Zaino wax and build up layers. ALso, how is the best way to clean and take care of the rally stripes?

GothamCamaro · 10-15-2008, 02:30 PM

Good advice, as I never had a new muscle car before and was curious.

Oh no one is driving my Camaro, NO ONE but me... well, I would let Megan Fox but then NO ONE ELSE!

Mr_Draco · 10-15-2008, 02:37 PM

One more thing, get an oil change around the 100 mile mark and again around 1,000 after this you can go by the recommended mileage.

Nexus6 · 10-15-2008, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

I see you are getting lots of good advice.

When washing, use microfiber towels...and if you drop one, leave it and get another. No need in getting tiny scratches in your clear coat.

Microfiber towels will NEVER touch the paint on my car,they are not plush,and if there is dirt on the car it will surely scratch the paint because the dirt has nowhere to go.I would suggest using 100% american made 100% cotton towels.They are hard to find ,but i order mine from http://www.dftowel.com/ordertowels.html

I use microfiber for cleaning windows and interior pieces only

lalometalik · 10-15-2008, 03:40 PM

^^^ now im baffled

which towels do we use???

Nexus6 · 10-15-2008, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lalometalik

^^^ now im baffled

which towels do we use???

this is direct from Zaino's web page

Zaino recommends using only Large Bath size 100% Made in USA White Cotton towels with all of our products. Cotton T-shirts are too small for polish removal and not as absorbent or fluffy as towels and most contain polyester. We have found that certain towels; especially those manufactured abroad, although they say 100% cotton. They are not; they include a blend of polyester and nylon that will definitely scratch and leave swirl marks in your paint finish. The rule of thumb is to use high quality Brand Name large bath towels (Cannon or Fieldcrest) that say 100% cotton and made in the USA. Towels sold in bags in Auto Stores are not 100% cotton. Look carefully on the bag it will probably say made in Pakistan or Bangladesh or other foreign country. Do not use these towels. They will cause swirl marks and scratches on the paint surface. Always, remove the stitching around the towel prior to use. Bargain store polish applicators also contain polyester and nylon fibers and are not to be used. Also, when washing your towels, please do not use any type of fabric softeners. Always use White towels. Do not use Colored Towels they contain dyes

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...S&Store_Code=Z

lalometalik · 10-15-2008, 04:46 PM

good point. anyone arguing PRO microfiber?

MrIcky · 10-15-2008, 05:11 PM

Many people have pet theories about break-ins. There are how to's, etc all over the net. My personal advice would be to follow the break in guide in the manual that comes with the car. So far, every manual I've ever seen has a break in guide.

Quite a few of the guides are based on built engines and really aren't accurate. What many guides fail to realize is that newer cars have a learning ECU. Learning ECU's will adjust to the way you drive and if you drive far outside how you normally intend to drive- the ECU will take several 100 to several 1000 miles to remap from your craziness.

I used to own a car wash and I will tell you one absolute consistancy - serious car people have "their way" of washing cars and all other ways are wrong. My pet theory on car washing is: I use cotton only towels. I use them in the bathroom for 3-4 months to break them down enough that they wick well. Always wipe from the top down. Your car should already be clean before a towel touches it, towels are for drying. Once a towel touches a wheel or tire it should be demoted to wheel or tire duty forevermore. I cut them in half at that point. I've known some people with beautiful cars that use microfiber. I think the biggest problem with microfiber is that you are made to feel like you can use it longer than you should, plus they're expensive. I've also had good luck with quick washes using a well maintained silicon squeegee. I use these after touchless gas station car washes when the car is just a little dusty.

*Milk 1027* · 10-15-2008, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lalometalik

good point. anyone arguing PRO microfiber?

No. 100% cotton is just fine. But make sure it's white.

2KZ28_For_Now · 10-15-2008, 05:32 PM

Txturbo has the engine part right:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...0&postcount=11

Basically, keep it at or less than 85% throttle for about 500 miles, varying RPMs as mush as practical - but less than redline, and then do some highway pulls and let it slow down on its own. But NO CONSTANT RPM for any length of time (cruise-control) if possible.

Always be sure to let the oil warm up to temp before doing any hard pulls. That goes before and after break-in. Gotta let those piston rings fully seal.

Some also say to change the oil before the recommended time - just for the first time - to pull out any small metal shavings or gasket sealant debris that might be left during the build process. This is controversial, many dont agree with that - but I think I do.

After that, drive it exactly as you normally would, to let the computer adjust to you, if that makes any sense.

You will get many varying opinions, so just do what you feel best, within the guidelines of the manual and warranty.

lalometalik · 10-15-2008, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrIcky

I used to own a car wash and I will tell you one absolute consistancy - serious car people have "their way" of washing cars and all other ways are wrong. My pet theory on car washing is: I use cotton only towels. I use them in the bathroom for 3-4 months to break them down enough that they wick well. Always wipe from the top down. Your car should already be clean before a towel touches it, towels are for drying. Once a towel touches a wheel or tire it should be demoted to wheel or tire duty forevermore. I cut them in half at that point. I've known some people with beautiful cars that use microfiber. I think the biggest problem with microfiber is that you are made to feel like you can use it longer than you should, plus they're expensive. I've also had good luck with quick washes using a well maintained silicon squeegee. I use these after touchless gas station car washes when the car is just a little dusty.

great post

i think im now a 100% cottonvert

welcome to the forum

TheCaptain · 10-15-2008, 06:13 PM

I like my Microfibre towels. They haven't hurt the LBM paint on my 07 SS SC, or my 06 GTX Ltd. Or my 91 Caprice Classic. No swirls no nothing.

The engine break in, i was told by my engine guy, and by numerous GM techs: new engines are practically broken in from factory, but for the serious engine/car guy, no constant RPMs for the first 800Km (600 miles), and do get a couple of high rpm runs in, just to break in the seals, followed by an oil change after that.

kanys · 10-15-2008, 07:46 PM

For the break in is it ok to take a long (150 mile) highway drive as long as you vary rpm and all that? I am just concerned that the engine may get too hot during the trip and seal something funny. I am probably just paranoid, but should I take breaks and let the engine cool for like 20 minutes every 20 minutes or so lol?

10-15-2008, 01:06 PM	#16
fastfret7 Drives: 2003 Ford Focus SVT EAP Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Ashburn,VA Posts: 299	I have always varied my RPMs for about the first 100 or so miles and than took it easy for about the first 1000 to 1500 miles. After that it is really good to open it up maybe on a round track or a long road. One thing is for sure, it is going to be really hard not to burn the tires of the back of it. Has anyone used that Mr. Clean hand free wash? Since I'm getting a black camaro I'm going to use Zaino wax and build up layers. ALso, how is the best way to clean and take care of the rally stripes? __________________ Heroes will be remembered, but legends will never die!! -The Sandlot...I know In my garage: 2003 Ford Focus SVT EAP in Infa-red 1 of 101 1970 EL Camino 454 SS w/ 4 speed muncie Red w/ Blk stripes 2010 2SS/RS Camaro w/hurst 6 spd in black on black w/red rally stripes

10-15-2008, 02:30 PM	#17
GothamCamaro Then you're gonna love me Drives: 2010 Black Camaro Tumbler RS Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NW Gotham, IL Posts: 1,599	Good advice, as I never had a new muscle car before and was curious. Oh no one is driving my Camaro, NO ONE but me... well, I would let Megan Fox but then NO ONE ELSE! __________________ *Own- "Does it come in Black?" Exterior/ Grey Interior 2LT/RS Automatic* _____________________________________ The Batman would only drive a 2010 Camaro and buy from Camaro Scotty. 'Nuff said. *Anyone that knows of a place that is making the Concept Shifter for the new Camaro. (Auto specifically) Please let me know.* Order# NDTMVP Ordered 10/23/08. 2000 on 5/21/09... It begins..... 4B00 on 6/26/09... In transit to the Cave 5000 on 7/6/09 it waits for my arrival! 1000000 on 7/10/09 The Tumbler is in the Cave!

10-15-2008, 03:40 PM	#20
lalometalik killer bAnana Drives: 1985 z28 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Carson, CA Posts: 694	^^^ now im baffled which towels do we use??? __________________ "Shut your noise tube, Taco Human!"

10-15-2008, 04:46 PM	#22
lalometalik killer bAnana Drives: 1985 z28 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Carson, CA Posts: 694	good point. anyone arguing PRO microfiber? __________________ "Shut your noise tube, Taco Human!"

10-15-2008, 05:32 PM	#25
2KZ28_For_Now SS Shotgun Ride?!??! :-) Drives: 2000 Z28 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 1,549	Txturbo has the engine part right: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...0&postcount=11 Basically, keep it at or less than 85% throttle for about 500 miles, varying RPMs as mush as practical - but less than redline, and then do some highway pulls and let it slow down on its own. But NO CONSTANT RPM for any length of time (cruise-control) if possible. Always be sure to let the oil warm up to temp before doing any hard pulls. That goes before and after break-in. Gotta let those piston rings fully seal. Some also say to change the oil before the recommended time - just for the first time - to pull out any small metal shavings or gasket sealant debris that might be left during the build process. This is controversial, many dont agree with that - but I think I do. After that, drive it exactly as you normally would, to let the computer adjust to you, if that makes any sense. You will get many varying opinions, so just do what you feel best, within the guidelines of the manual and warranty. __________________ LT LS RS SS LS3 LSA-Z28 (Skip the body kit)

10-15-2008, 02:37 PM	#18
Mr_Draco Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 7,182	One more thing, get an oil change around the 100 mile mark and again around 1,000 after this you can go by the recommended mileage.

10-15-2008, 05:11 PM	#23
MrIcky Drives: Dodge Ram Megacab & Cobalt SS Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Boise Posts: 1,536	Many people have pet theories about break-ins. There are how to's, etc all over the net. My personal advice would be to follow the break in guide in the manual that comes with the car. So far, every manual I've ever seen has a break in guide. Quite a few of the guides are based on built engines and really aren't accurate. What many guides fail to realize is that newer cars have a learning ECU. Learning ECU's will adjust to the way you drive and if you drive far outside how you normally intend to drive- the ECU will take several 100 to several 1000 miles to remap from your craziness. I used to own a car wash and I will tell you one absolute consistancy - serious car people have "their way" of washing cars and all other ways are wrong. My pet theory on car washing is: I use cotton only towels. I use them in the bathroom for 3-4 months to break them down enough that they wick well. Always wipe from the top down. Your car should already be clean before a towel touches it, towels are for drying. Once a towel touches a wheel or tire it should be demoted to wheel or tire duty forevermore. I cut them in half at that point. I've known some people with beautiful cars that use microfiber. I think the biggest problem with microfiber is that you are made to feel like you can use it longer than you should, plus they're expensive. I've also had good luck with quick washes using a well maintained silicon squeegee. I use these after touchless gas station car washes when the car is just a little dusty.

10-15-2008, 06:13 PM	#27
TheCaptain N7 Spectre Drives: 14 ATS Performance 3.6L AWD Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Moosomin, Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 2,734 View My Garage	I like my Microfibre towels. They haven't hurt the LBM paint on my 07 SS SC, or my 06 GTX Ltd. Or my 91 Caprice Classic. No swirls no nothing. The engine break in, i was told by my engine guy, and by numerous GM techs: new engines are practically broken in from factory, but for the serious engine/car guy, no constant RPMs for the first 800Km (600 miles), and do get a couple of high rpm runs in, just to break in the seals, followed by an oil change after that. __________________

10-15-2008, 07:46 PM	#28
kanys Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Houston Posts: 872	For the break in is it ok to take a long (150 mile) highway drive as long as you vary rpm and all that? I am just concerned that the engine may get too hot during the trip and seal something funny. I am probably just paranoid, but should I take breaks and let the engine cool for like 20 minutes every 20 minutes or so lol?