02-15-2019, 02:43 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 19
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2013 SS 6M very sluggish
Bought a used SS with 45k miles a month ago. I have done 2 fuse pulls. Run only 93 octane. 2 full tanks before 1st pull. Another 10-15 before 2nd. Left fuses out 14 hours second pull. It's still very sluggish and has trouble starting. I test drove a 2010 SS a few weeks ago and it was much stronger. Can't afford a tune or other mods yet. Just want it to feel normal. I greatly appreciate any help.
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02-15-2019, 02:46 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS, 1968 SS Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southeast, PA
Posts: 2,093
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Do you know anything about the history of the car?
Did you purchase the car from a Chevrolet dealership? Was the car stock when you bought it? I'm curious if someone had a tune on it for mods, then removed the mods to sell the car, but it still has a tune. Or if the car had modifications that caused it to run a little too rich and started to ruin the cats. If you bought it from a chevy dealership, you should ask them if they can reflash the PCM to stock for you. Are you capable of pulling 1 or 2 plugs (on different sides of the engine) to take a look at them?
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LS3 Crate Engine Swap | CSP Custom Cam 232/240 .615/.615 113 +3 | Stainless Power LT Headers | Z28 Intake | Borla S-Type Exhaust | FTI Triple-Disc Billet 3200 Stall
2012 Camaro 2SS/RS | 1968 Camaro SS | 2020 Cadillac CT5 Premium Luxury | 2021 Spark LS |
02-15-2019, 05:43 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2013 Black SS M6 Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Georgetown, KY
Posts: 47
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Check each plug wire connection at the spark plug and coil. Sometimes when I drive mine hard, the engine rocks and will partially disconnect the plug wire from either the plug wire or coil. If it's partially disconnected, my car runs sluggish but doesn't throw any codes/CEL. Each wire will look connected, but one will be slightly backed off. When I push on the plug wire boot, it'll snap into place and all is good.
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02-15-2019, 08:18 PM | #4 |
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Never had a problem like that with mine. Trouble starting? Battery? Is a check engine light on? Car fax?
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Life is short, drive it like you stole it! |
02-15-2019, 09:42 PM | #5 |
Jedi Master
Drives: Boeing 757/767+2010 IBM 2SS Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bangor, ME and Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,121
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What weight oil is in it?
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02-15-2019, 11:10 PM | #6 |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,487
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What weight passenger is in it?
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02-15-2019, 11:36 PM | #7 |
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02-16-2019, 12:24 AM | #8 | ||
Drives: 2010 ABM 1SS M6 NON RS Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 669
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Quote:
Quote:
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2010 Aqua Blue 1SS
KWC 3pc forged, Seibon hood, ZL front end, MGW, ARH full exhaust w/ Doug Thorley axle back, BTR4, Roto-fab, LSXR 102, NW 102, 3.91s 2018 GMC Sierra (Stone Blue metallic) 2016 Streetglide (Crushed Ice Pearl) 2018 Indian Scout (Bronze Smoke) |
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02-16-2019, 12:35 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 19
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Don't know the car's history, but seems to have been well kept and appears bone stock. Bought from the local Chevy dealer. Not sure of oil weight. Plan on full Royal Purple swap and NGK plug swap at first oil change. An AirRaid CAI and full header/exhaust install are planned at first opportunity. Dyno tune shortly thereafter, funds permitting.
Thank you all for your advice. Checking plugs tomorrow. |
02-16-2019, 08:07 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2SS/RS LS3 NPP Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 227
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Pull the maf sensor, check to see if its a "strong" one should have both a letter and number like k24 for example, also probably the original battery, they can also cause havoc.
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Taylor 409's, BF Comp 2's, Z26 pads, Hurst billet shifter
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02-18-2019, 07:47 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2ss/rs, 2008 Avalanche Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Lake Pannasoffkee,Florida
Posts: 248
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Mine just did this very same thing last week. It was the battery on its way out . Installed new battery checked chsrging which was good and all is well again.
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02-18-2019, 08:24 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 Vert M6 ECF Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Trenton, Michigan
Posts: 7,047
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With all the electronics/electrical items on our cars, it seems like the average battery needs to be replaced every 4 years or so rather than the 10-15 years of days gone past.
In the old days you could tell the battery was on it's way out when the car started cranking slow. Nowadays the symptoms are all over the map. |
02-19-2019, 06:21 AM | #13 | |
Drives: '14 BRM 1LE 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ft. Wayne, IN
Posts: 801
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Quote:
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592 HP/590 TQ
LSA Blower w/ 2.45 Griptec, Reinforced Brick, FIC 1000 injectors, JRE FPCM, LFP Dual Pass HX, ZL1 IC pump, RotoFab CAI, Bo White TB, Coated Stainless Power 1-7/8" LTs, NPP, NGK TR7IX, Mighty Mouse Wild CC, AEM X-Series WB, Aeroforce Interceptor, MGW Shifter, Z28 Grill, Gary's Custom ZL1 Rockers, Hero Tails, Tuned by IMC |
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02-19-2019, 07:54 AM | #14 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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I wouldn't touch the plugs just yet. Do more diagnostics before throwing parts at it.
Scan it, see if any trouble codes. Bad plug or wire it will have P0300 misfire DTC. Define your "trouble starting"? Slow cranking or normal cranking? A no cost check is to pop off the intake tube and peek at the throttle body blade. Make sure it is not gunked up. Pop out the MAF and Air cleaner for inspection. Make sure MAF is not gunked up with fibers burned on the hot wire. When scanning, what are the fuel trims? Need to know if it's rich/lean/misfiring.... An engine left misfiring too long can fudge up a Cat conv. Lots to check before buying parts. |
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