Mods list

[RandyT]

Going to do some mods this winter but have to do them in steps

here is the list in the order I am going to probably do them

1) Roto Fab CAI
2) 160 thermostat
3) upper & lower pulleys
4 Long tube headers
5)tune

Thoughts?

[BlackWidow24]

what size pullies did you go with? Depending on your boost level you will need injectors and maybe even a cam if you go with a 2.5/9.1 set up. But other than that the only thing i would add is a d3 coolant res and better heat exchanger.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by RandyT

Going to do some mods this winter but have to do them in steps

here is the list in the order I am going to probably do them

1) Roto Fab CAI
2) 160 thermostat
3) upper & lower pulleys
4 Long tube headers
5)tune

Thoughts?

Skip the thermostat..

[BlackWidow24]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Skip the thermostat..

But why? the thermostat is only a 30$ part and helps with cooling?...

[RobZL1]

If it were mine:

Drop #2 and instead get your fans adjusted during the tune. Mine runs 188-202 all the time. 188-192 when moving, 199-202 when sitting. It's gonna get up into the 190s regardless of the thermostat, in my opinion.

Then 3-5 have to go together. I'd also add #6 and #7, which are a BAP and injectors, otherwise you'll have to stay so small on your pulley(s) it wouldn't really be worth it in my opinion.

If you wanted a little more in the meantime since you are working in phases, put a 5% lower on there after (or with) the rotofab, then you could upgrade to something bigger with just 3 bolts and a belt when you get around to doing 3-5. Should be fine if you're running 93 octane, if not, add some Torco for insurance (or just do that anyway to make sure you don't go boom!)

Rotofab and 5% pulley should get you to about 550 SAE or more at the wheels if you're an M6.

Then the pulley(s), injectors, BAP, and headers should get you up to 600-630 SAE depending on the car, the pulleys, and the dyno.

Perhaps add a reservoir in there at some point to add a little heat capacity and ease of maintenance to the cooling system

Just curious, how much time are you thinking will pass between steps?

EDIT- I'd also throw a quality catch can on there at some point if it were me.

EDIT #2 - Don't forget the plugs.

[RobZL1]

Other note- once you're up to about 25-30% overdrive, you're at the octane/boost ceiling. You'll need a cam from there forward to make more power safely and without creating a ton of heat.

FWIW, that's pretty much where I am right now, and it's a blast. Next mods will be JRE rough idle cam kit, and DSX flex fuel/aux pump. Going for 750rwhp on the corn, 700rwhp on 93. Probably be a year or two, but that's the plan.

[silversleeper]

1. 10% lower pulley
2. Roto Fab CAI
3. Tune
4. ID1050x injectors
5. Retunes
6. DSX Flex fuel
7. Boost a pump
8. JBA straight mid pipe
9. cam
9.1 more fuel pump
10 headers
11 ported intake
12 biggest lower pulley
12.1 ron davis heat exchanger
12.2 re inforced intercooler in supercharger
13 forged 416 longblock
13.1 Ported or higher flow heads
14 twin turbos
15 sell it and buy a Z06 corvette

I don't know how far down the list I'll go, likely not Twin turbo, it's better for power but I don't want to change out the oem supercharger. I'd prefer to keep the ZL1 somewhat original especially in appearance. Corvette is better if you want a lighter faster car, so just go straight to 15 if that's where you will be headed to, it's easier and cheaper that way. Many of us are happy with the camaro and won't go that direction.

[BossRS4]

Not trying to thread jack, but for a 10% pulley you also need a harmoic balancer right?

https://www.rdpstore.com/p-5657-ati-...-v-918854.aspx

[RobZL1]

Correct. Any lower pulley requires a new balancer assembly, but once you have it, then you can exchange pulleys.

[BossRS4]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Correct. Any lower pulley requires a new balancer assembly, but once you have it, then you can exchange pulleys.

How tough is the install for those lower pulleys?

Also, you guys think 10% is safe on stock injectors?

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by RandyT

Going to do some mods this winter but have to do them in steps

here is the list in the order I am going to probably do them

1) Roto Fab CAI
2) 160 thermostat
3) upper & lower pulleys
4 Long tube headers
5)tune

Thoughts?

These cars need major fueling help.
There's lots of science to the pulleys.
EVERYTHING past an Intake should have a tune.

I don't know what your budget is or reasoning for stages but I highly recommend just biting the bullet and going:

Roto-Fab CAI
LT Headers with NO cats
18% or 22.5% LPE Lower pulley (9.1" or 9.55")
ATI Harmonic Balancer/Damper
ARP Crank bolt
LPE Relocation bracket OR 50mm Idlers
Proper Belt
ID1050X Injectors
TR7IX Plugs (You can also upgrade plug wires and heat sleeves would be good)
Catch can (Elite Engineering is a good choice)
Coolant expansion tank/reservoir (D3 or Roto-Fab)
Option: Heat Exchanger upgrade (Hot climate or tracking = Get one)
(This is essentially a JRE 125 RWHP kit, which may be a great option for you)

Now if you're really trying to go light, then you CAN try to run a pulley on stock injectors but it's going to have to be a 5% or 10% pulley and a maximum of a 60-80 RWHP gain, even with supporting parts.

Roto-Fab CAI
LT Headers (Optional)
10% LPE Pulley (8.6")
ATI Harmonic balancer/damper
ARP Crank bolt
Belt
Plugs
Coolant expansion tank
(This is essentially a JRE 75 RWHP kit)

The options go on from there. Just a few key points...
Always tune unless you're just doing intake only.
You cannot run too much boost on the factory Cam
If you start running more than 18% you'll likely want a Heat Exchanger upgrade
Stock injectors have been known to be on 100%+ DC with 5% and 10% pulleys...Some members were running out of fuel with just a 5% pulley. I personally would not mod on stock injectors based on my experience. It's kind of like a Shit or get off the pot kind of thing, either mod and do your fueling and cooling upgrades, or put an intake on it and be happy.

I'm happy to answer any other questions. Work with your builder/tuner and see what he thinks if he's qualified. Don't do the run of the mill local shop on the corner that has worked on LS1s and therefore thinks he's qualified for LSAs. A lot of magic is worked in the tune.

Originally Posted by BossRS4

How tough is the install for those lower pulleys?

Also, you guys think 10% is safe on stock injectors?

Install for lower pulley is pretty simple, you can do it in your garage in a few hours if you know what you're doing. Just make sure you have the proper tools. Certainly a lot easier than the upper pulley.

As far as the 10%, see above, but personally I say, no. Just bite the bullet and do injectors. Once you do injectors, you're free to go as far as you want anyway. Chances are a 60-80 RWHP boost won't satisfy you for long anyways.

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by BossRS4

How tough is the install for those lower pulleys?

Also, you guys think 10% is safe on stock injectors?

I think it was "hognuts" that did a 10% only mod long ago and tested, or was it JRE? It had great results for a one mod only thing without a tune. A CAI by itself isn't hard or expensive and is reversible for resale or warranty reasons.
You can do a 5% and CAI without a tune but I agree that for the money and effort it isn't worth it to me. Either step up to a tune or just do one or the other. I think a 10% pulley alone would be about what a 5% and CAI would be hp gain, so why do that combo?

I'm going to be installing my ATI balancer and 10% pulley soon. My notes from reading, in short are
You can remove only the radiator fans and do the job.
Use a chrysler universal v6 and other engines puller. A worn out junk or other type puller doesn't work well.
Lube the puller threads or they might gall strip and seize due to the friction
Never use a hammer !
DON'T use the old bolt to pull the new balancer on. It doesn't have enough threads to reach, and will likely strip out your crank. Get some threaded rod or longer bolt. Nuts and spacers can make it all work as you press on the new balancer. Again lube threads.
Takes lot of torq to remove and install it, need a long breaker bar and torq wrench.
the original bolt is one time use; stretches called torq to yield, get a new ARP normal bolt as part of your purchase
suggested to use thread locker glue on the new bolt
a new belt will be needed. some charts are wrong. have your forum sponsor provide the correct length belt with your pulley.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Takes lot of torq to remove and install it, need a long breaker bar and torq wrench.

I can attest to this, and so can my poor old craftsman breaker bar. This was on an ls6 I did.

[silversleeper]

Craftsman lifetime warranty. Sears unfortunately won't be there to exchange the tool as they close.