GPI or TSP?

[Tajefe Couple]

GPI for me. Ryan and Andrew have always went above and beyond, kind of an old style customer service you don't find much anymore. The whole team there really knows these platforms. I've only ever had a remote tune and Ryan was more than glad to dial it in and tweek it until I was happy and running low 11's. Always sent me a new one within a couple hours of sending him some log files. Couldn't be happier!

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by jokrz187

the shop i used has their own custom grind through TSP and they dyno/tune on the spot. i always recommend a tune and dyno. i know the remote tunes are good but i feel more comfortable with a tuner and going over specifics. just my two cents

^^^+1
I got my SS1 Cam from GPI and had it remote tuned by Ryan. It was a pretty painless process. But by the time you get everything from GPI for the remote tune you could have spent less on a dyno tune, at least where I got mine from anyways. I just enjoy the process of a dyno tune over a remote tune because the tuner can jump in the car with you and drive down the road with you.

Another thing is the amount of torque you get from a TSP cam is phenomenal from what I've seen. The only thing about TSP is the staff is hard to get on the phone sometimes but when you do they will take care of you. We're building my son's C5 ls1 right now with one of their cams and it took about a week for the cam kit to come in.

I would say for customer service GPI. For peak power then TSP.

[Bluebagger06]

Im running GPI but TSP has some good products also!

[NOT A 45]

Thank you guys for all the input! From the sound of things it doesn't look like I can go wrong with any of these companies! I work on stock vehicles at a dealership for a living. Performance modifications really aren't my forte. I really appreciate advice from people who have been there done that. I have a couple questions, not sure if you guys can answer.
1. I'd like to use my stock lifters with my cam swap. Engine only has 40k on it, and I'd rather not pull the heads if I don't have to. Also I'd like to use the hardened camshaft core....is this compatible with my stock roller lifters?
2. Considering my heads are not milled nor is the block deck should I be o.k. with standard length push rods?

Thanks

[morepowerjoe]

Most people will probably say replace the lifters because it's cheap insurance. If you decide to do the lifters it's not that really of a big deal, I'm sure you know that. I would go with the gm performance racing lifters and not the regular performance versions, just because there has been a consensus that the regular ls7 lifters are a little scary with the higher spring pressure and lift. If you go with either company they will let you know what pushrods you need.

[RS/SS '10]

I agree with MPJ, replace the lifters with the cam install. The GM lifters that I have read a lot of conversations about are called "Caddy" lifters. Best advise that I received when putting my build together was do your research. Having said that, I am not a mechanic, but I do believe reading is fundamental. And comprehension is vital. The discount you receive as a dealership employee is something I would take full advantage of. I think I am safe saying that after you change lifters and cam you will need new pushrods. Once you get to the point of having most everything finished, measure and see what length pushrods you will need. You are correct about 40K not being a ton of miles, but I replaced mine at 20K. As far as GPI, TSP, and BTR the first two certainly have their share of fanboys on this site. I talked with both and ended up not buying from either. BTR makes some really good looking pieces, but they seem to really like their pieces. I bought everything for my build from Tick Performance in Mt. Airy, NC, talk to Dustin. Hope you have much success.

[Royal Tiger]

If you’re doing the cam, junk the crap GM valve train. As stated it’s cheap insurance.

[hunter1660]

Your probably best suited to answer your own question. What kind and how often do you see stock lifter failure LS3 or L99

[NOT A 45]

Thanks again guys.....I can fix just about anything you guys have going on but when it comes to mods, I’m a novice. As rs/as said I get a great discount on parts and I do the labor.....guess I need to stop being lazy and just do it the right way!

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by hunter1660

Your probably best suited to answer your own question. What kind and how often do you see stock lifter failure LS3 or L99

LS3 never....AFM all the time

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Spend the extra money and labor now for good lifters such as the GM performance/caddy units. I know it’s a little extra coin and work but in the end knowing you’ve got parts that are going to be better suited to the mods you are doing is going to go a long ways for peace of mind. As you likely well know, performance mods act as a total “package” of parts if you will that all compliment each other. Don’t sell your self short in that regard. The caddy lifters are better suited to the higher Rpms and higher lift that a cam swap inherently brings. That’s my honest two cents. Do it right the first time as much as possible.

I’ve also been gathering cam parts and such here and there for a little bit in preparing to cam swap mine as well. Me going all the labor.

[Tarendor]

My vote is for GPI. I have done 5 setups with their parts and remote Tuning on 3 of them with 100% satisfaction. (Tuned the other two myself)

[gunchamp]

GPI! You wont be disappointed!

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

Thank you guys for all the input! From the sound of things it doesn't look like I can go wrong with any of these companies! I work on stock vehicles at a dealership for a living. Performance modifications really aren't my forte. I really appreciate advice from people who have been there done that. I have a couple questions, not sure if you guys can answer.
1. I'd like to use my stock lifters with my cam swap. Engine only has 40k on it, and I'd rather not pull the heads if I don't have to. Also I'd like to use the hardened camshaft core....is this compatible with my stock roller lifters?
2. Considering my heads are not milled nor is the block deck should I be o.k. with standard length push rods?

Thanks

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to pull the heads on these LS/L99 engines to do a cam swap and replace lifters? As they are under the heads along with the lifter guides? So yea, I would replace the stock ones for some better ones. Here is some great lifter info from the man himself, Ryan at GPI.