07-30-2009, 07:21 PM | #29 |
Drives: 2008 silverado, 2006 Impala Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Alaska
Posts: 113
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How are the techs ever going to learn how to work on a Camaro if you don't bring it in and ask them to work on it? Most of us are GM certified on whatever area we're working on. I've been named the "camaro" guy. I work on them whenever they come in as long as it's not an a/t issue. I know you all hate to hear this but IT'S JUST A CAR. The engine still works the same, clutch works the same, its just wrapped in a different body. They even still use PISTONS IN THE MOTOR!!! nuts, I know. If your concerned about the dealership being able to work on a brand new car, should have bought a 98 Silverado and been done with it.
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07-30-2009, 07:23 PM | #30 |
Hollywood
Drives: 2010 Black Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 123
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Took me about 200 miles to get used to it. Hell, I stalled it a couple of times.
Was very jerky taking off, but I have gotten the hang of it now and it is getting smoother now. Give it some more seat time, let it break in, and you will get used to it.
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Black 2010 2SS Ordered 5/16/09 1100-Preliminary order accepted 5/18/09 3000-Order Accepted by Production Control 05/27/09 3300-Order scheduled for production 06/16/09 - TPW 06/29/09 3400-Order broadcast 6/20/09 3800-Order Produced 6/30/09 - VIN # 123221 4200-Shipped 7/2/09 5000-Delivered to the dealer 7/6/09 |
07-30-2009, 07:23 PM | #31 |
ZEUSS
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Just get it checked out and give it time to break-in. For Gods sake don't sell it for that reason.
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07-30-2009, 07:25 PM | #32 |
ZUL8TR
Drives: 94 Z28 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kernersville,NC
Posts: 101
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Very aware of how a clutch works. I have a 94 Z28 with LT1 and 6spd basically same principle here both work off of Hydro. fluid. I have owned that car from the time it was new and it never felt like this. I have always owned Chevrolets so I am not to familiar with imports.
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07-30-2009, 07:30 PM | #33 |
ZUL8TR
Drives: 94 Z28 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kernersville,NC
Posts: 101
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To the GM Certified Tech I understand your point but I also have a 2003 SS Silverado AWD. I had some issues with it and took it back and the techs acted like they did not know what to do because they have not work on that many. That is where my concern comes from.
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07-30-2009, 07:30 PM | #34 | |
Moderator
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Quote:
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RDP Motorsport//GEN5DIY//Cultrag Performance//JPSS//Rodgets Chevrolet//
Operation Demon//Buy at Invoice//RACECARWEAR RESPECT ALL CARS. LOVE YOUR OWN. warn 145:159 ban |
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07-30-2009, 07:34 PM | #35 |
ZUL8TR
Drives: 94 Z28 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kernersville,NC
Posts: 101
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As I have said that I am taking it back to the dealership Mon. Thanks!
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07-30-2009, 07:34 PM | #36 | |
Drives: 00 Blazer Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,104
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Quote:
But you are overlooking the Owners Manual instructions. The car will not be optimal till after it get's a few 1000 miles on it. The tires you have are not even broken in. They need miles to heat up and cook the layers. |
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07-30-2009, 07:45 PM | #37 |
I assume when you're talking about rough shifting you're referring to the clutch engagement and disengagement. In my time with the car I'm in love with the actual shifter mechanism, its the perfect weight for me (relatively heavy). After 962 miles I will say this is a different clutch than I'm used to. Although I'm (only) 29 I'm also used to the old-school mechanical / cable clutchs. I grew up learning on farm and commercial mowing equipment. The hydraulic clutch is definatly a different animal than those older systems. With this much torque, its also not very forgiving to miss the rpm match by more than 100 rpm. If you're fast with the clutch you'll get a solid accel/decel kick
Some tips I've learned to smooth out my SS for daily driving: For shifts from 1st through 4th pause briefly at the friction point under no gas. This will give the synchro's a chance to smooth out the tranistion. I do mean briefly, not much longer than the blink of an eye. I also use a similar technique with a longer pause for starting out in 1st. Don't bother with the above technique for 4th to 5th or 5th to 6th. Given the flatness of these gears there is very little rimpull (torque force delivered to the ground) up in these gears. Shifting into 5th either needs to be done VERY quickly or while keeping the rpm's up. Under low-loads in the 2000-3000 rpm range the rpm difference is only ~300 rpm. Every other gear is ~1000 rpm. If you're slowly accelerating up to non-interstate speed just skip 5th entirely. You're going to get almost no benefit from the gear. Right now I would still prefer a mechanical clutch, but this one is slowly growing on me. |
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07-30-2009, 07:51 PM | #38 |
Drives: 1999 Z28 1983 Z28 Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: City of Champions,MA
Posts: 616
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Stop acting like your driving some future machine. Its a standard, RWD, Small Block Chevy powered coupe, they have been making those for a long time. A clutch hasn't changed much in 50 years. Its got 362 miles on it. If your as knowledgable as you claim then you know it needs more miles on it to feel what its going to feel like for the next 40K.
Also if you don't trust the dealer, then try bleeding your slave cylinder and see if that helps the pedal.
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Current cars:
99 Z28 06 Silverado 14 Silverado |
07-30-2009, 07:51 PM | #39 | |
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07-30-2009, 07:56 PM | #40 | |
Drives: 2008 silverado, 2006 Impala Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Alaska
Posts: 113
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07-30-2009, 07:59 PM | #41 |
Drives: Not enough room here! Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 1,017
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07-30-2009, 08:12 PM | #42 |
Drives: 2010 RY SSRS 2010 IBM LT2 Join Date: May 2009
Location: beckley wv 25801
Posts: 79
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Something has to be wrong I have driven mine since it had 7 miles on it now I have 400 and everything is great
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