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Old 08-17-2020, 04:36 PM   #1
Silverado60
 
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1st road course upgrade?

I have a 2010 Ls3. Mostly stock suspension. Only upgrade is bmr 1.25 drop springs. I’m going to head to the road course for the second time next month.
What upgrade will give me the best result.
Cradle bushings? Sway bar? Toe rod?
Would love to do it all but can’t afford that....
Just put on a new set of nitto. Nt05

Sorry for the double post
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Old 08-17-2020, 04:47 PM   #2
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Sway bars, trailing arms, lower control bushings, toe rods and strut tower bar.

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Old 08-17-2020, 06:03 PM   #3
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Brakes
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Old 08-17-2020, 07:35 PM   #4
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Kinda of a subjective question where do you feel the car lacks. If you find a 1LE front bar and a DSE 35mm hollow bar or come across a JPSS 32mm solid bar jump on those. Have you swapped your cradle bushings? That will help with acceleration since the cradle won’t wind up on you. Get a set of front Z28 radius arms they have a stiffer insert and will improve steering wheel return and sharpness. Brakes are a good upgrade but can get out of hand real quick cost wise, just check the road course thread an see what pads everyone is running, I run a hodgepodge of braking in mine CTS-V calipers with Z06 pistons, CTS-V rotors with Stainless lines and a stock rear setup they work very well on stock pads. Tires and wheels are huge as well because if you reduce rotating mass you can improve acceleration and stickier/softer tread compound like a GY Supercar G2 in 285 all the way around on a staggerEd 20x10s and 20x11s(1LE setup) the stretching over the 11 inch rim will help with turn in.
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Old 08-17-2020, 09:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olblue75 View Post
Kinda of a subjective question where do you feel the car lacks. If you find a 1LE front bar and a DSE 35mm hollow bar or come across a JPSS 32mm solid bar jump on those. Have you swapped your cradle bushings? That will help with acceleration since the cradle won’t wind up on you. Get a set of front Z28 radius arms they have a stiffer insert and will improve steering wheel return and sharpness. Brakes are a good upgrade but can get out of hand real quick cost wise, just check the road course thread an see what pads everyone is running, I run a hodgepodge of braking in mine CTS-V calipers with Z06 pistons, CTS-V rotors with Stainless lines and a stock rear setup they work very well on stock pads. Tires and wheels are huge as well
because if you reduce rotating mass you can improve acceleration and stickier/softer tread compound like a GY Supercar G2 in 285 all the way around on a staggerEd 20x10s and 20x11s(1LE setup) the stretching over the 11 inch rim will help with turn in.
I’ve seen other threads mention the CT’s-v setup. Are they a direct bolt on or are other modifications needed?

The car just doesn’t seem to rotate very well and has a lot of body roll.
I have a pretty good idea of what a good setup should look like I was just trying to see what the biggest bang for the buck was
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:31 AM   #6
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The 2010 has the older design sway bar/control arm FE3 setup. That's where I would start. At least update to FE4.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398746
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:21 AM   #7
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The CTS-V is a bolt on but again can get out of hand quickly the calipers are the same as ZL1, CTS-V, and C7 Z06/GS (the Vette calipers have vented pistons) you’ll need a back plate different lines and rotors can be spendy as well but Rock Auto as a good deal on Brembo rotors. An yes swap over to the the FE4 LCAs an sway bar maybe start with a 1LE set first an go from there.
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Old 08-18-2020, 01:29 PM   #8
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I’m with Ss performance. Brakes for sure. On my first track day, my brakes faded. I did a flush and put in dot 4 ate blue fluid before hand. It Scared the belzub out of me. After that, I put in z06 brakes calipers, zl1 rotors and stainless lines.

On my second track day, I didn’t have any issues with braking. Now I can focus on driving without worrying so much. I also view brakes as a safety item so I did them first.

If you didn’t experience brake fade, you eventually will, unless your track doesn’t have long straights. Olblue is right, Rock auto had the lowest price on calipers. They just say “corvette” on them. I did mine earlier this year. Where are you in pa?
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Old 08-18-2020, 03:22 PM   #9
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Autocross and especially road course use is especially hard on wheel bearings, valve springs, brakes which were covered already and the CV joints of the rear axles. Definitely go with DOT4 fluid whether you stay with 4 piston front calipers or 6 piston ZL1/CTS/Corvette calipers. I like the Brembo brake pads the come on the ZL1. Separating the clutch fluid from the brake reservoir is also a must, there are kits do that which some are copies of what I did nearly a decade ago. I use ZL1 wheel bearings at all 4 corners. Will be trying Nitto NT05's this fall for the first time, buddy ran them and they had tons of grip.
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Old 08-18-2020, 03:23 PM   #10
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I gave you suggestions in your other Thread

Cradle Bushings, Trailing Arms & Toe Rods
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Old 08-18-2020, 06:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
The 2010 has the older design sway bar/control arm FE3 setup. That's where I would start. At least update to FE4.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398746
Is it worth buying new lca’s to do the fe4 setup? I can get a pretty nice sway bar for my setup
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Old 08-18-2020, 06:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flht99b View Post
Autocross and especially road course use is especially hard on wheel bearings, valve springs, brakes which were covered already and the CV joints of the rear axles. Definitely go with DOT4 fluid whether you stay with 4 piston front calipers or 6 piston ZL1/CTS/Corvette calipers. I like the Brembo brake pads the come on the ZL1. Separating the clutch fluid from the brake reservoir is also a must, there are kits do that which some are copies of what I did nearly a decade ago. I use ZL1 wheel bearings at all 4 corners. Will be trying Nitto NT05's this fall for the first time, buddy ran them and they had tons of grip.
Why is it everyone uses dot4 fluid? Isn’t dot 5.1 a better option? I’ve never used either just trying to sort it out

Update: after some research I ordered Motul 100949 – RBF600 DOT4 Racing Brake Fluid
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Last edited by Silverado60; 08-18-2020 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 08-19-2020, 08:39 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Level300 View Post
I’m with Ss performance. Brakes for sure. On my first track day, my brakes faded. I did a flush and put in dot 4 ate blue fluid before hand. It Scared the belzub out of me. After that, I put in z06 brakes calipers, zl1 rotors and stainless lines.

On my second track day, I didn’t have any issues with braking. Now I can focus on driving without worrying so much. I also view brakes as a safety item so I did them first.

If you didn’t experience brake fade, you eventually will, unless your track doesn’t have long straights. Olblue is right, Rock auto had the lowest price on calipers. They just say “corvette” on them. I did mine earlier this year. Where are you in pa?
I'm in central pa near Raystown lake
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Texas speed F-35 cam, rollmaster timing set, melling hp pump, ls2 chain damper, fluid damper 25% under drive, Che rocker bushings, tsp .660 lift valve springs, BBK CAI Amzoil filter with Phastek ww relocation and scoop, Gmpp axle back, Speed engineering 1 7/8" LT's no cats, Peak speed shop ported tb, NGK tr6, MSD wires, Amsoil Zrod wix, heritage grill, 1.25" BMR springs, MRR 228, Nitto Nt05,dyno tuned by complete street performance, elite eng catch can, clean side separator, Hurst shifter, Zl1 addon wickerbill
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Old 08-19-2020, 08:53 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Silverado60 View Post
Is it worth buying new lca’s to do the fe4 setup? I can get a pretty nice sway bar for my setup
I think so. It changes the leverage ratio to make the sway bar more effective. It's what Justice Pete recommended and at $40 each + $20 each for sway bar links it gives you much more options for sway bars.
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