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Old 01-23-2019, 08:18 PM   #1
jimb416
 
Drives: 2011 Grand Sport Corvette
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Thinking about a change to Z

I currently have a 2011 Corvette Grand Sport and like to go to local track days about 5-6 times a year. I play around with it on back roads on weekends but otherwise it’s basically a toy. I have had my eyes on the ‘14 & ‘15 Z/28 and am wondering if I could expect much of an improvement during track days? I have done rotor and pad/fluid upgrades to my vette, nothing to the extent of the carbon ceramics however. I am aware the weight difference but from all I have read the package they put together with the Z/28 it is really surprisingly nimble? Hoping for some feedback from those who know the car best. Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2019, 08:57 PM   #2
1970judge

 
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Very nimble car for what it is. You'll notice the weight difference of the Camaro from a C6, its a ~400lb difference.

I wouldn't hesitate to upgrade from a C6GS to a Z.
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Old 01-24-2019, 06:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimb416 View Post
I currently have a 2011 Corvette Grand Sport and like to go to local track days about 5-6 times a year. I play around with it on back roads on weekends but otherwise it’s basically a toy. I have had my eyes on the ‘14 & ‘15 Z/28 and am wondering if I could expect much of an improvement during track days? I have done rotor and pad/fluid upgrades to my vette, nothing to the extent of the carbon ceramics however. I am aware the weight difference but from all I have read the package they put together with the Z/28 it is really surprisingly nimble? Hoping for some feedback from those who know the car best. Thanks.
I think a large percentage of the Z28 owners on this forum have come from a corvette to a Z28 as I have. For me the biggest differences have been the brakes and suspension which are night and day better on the Z28. Ive only noticed the weight difference on occasion on smaller "momentum" type tracks.
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Old 01-24-2019, 06:41 AM   #4
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Overall performance will be better in the Z/28, yes, if your abilities permit you to do so.

However, if you're tracking it you must consider the consumables. Weight is always a cost driver for track cars. At 3,800 lbs the Z/28 is a big compared to the 3,300 lb GS. 400-500 more lbs of energy to manipulate and control.

GS is lighter, so it benefits from being easier on brakes/tires.
-The Z/28's brakes whether you maintain the carbon setup, source another brand, or do a steel rotor/pad swap is pricey. Far more so than the GS rotors/pads from any brand.
-Z/28 tires are the same size all around but the wheels are staggered widths and offsets. Aggressive offsets and brake fitment makes getting wheels pricey and troublesome. Corvettes are staggered sizing as well, however running a square setup tremendously benefits their performance and has the benefit of tire rotation. Both cars have similar tire costs

-If your GS is a coupe/manual then you too have the dry sump system, so oil price shouldn't be a factor.

-Transmission/Rearend fluid should be similar volumes in each car

-The motors are out for debate on durability of stock LS7 v LS3. LS3 many track folk have more faith in the LS3 heads vs the LS7 valve guide woes, which seem to come into play for people who routinely use the car in high rpm ranges. The replacement cost is less with the LS3 too.

Local guy has tracked his heads/cam Z/28 for the past few years and has stopped due to consumables and depreciation consideration on the Z/28. Got a C6 GS for track duties now.

It's all what you want/need though. I would have bought a C6 GS if I didn't need a back seat for kids. GS's cost/performance is killer value for a 2 seater. Z/28's cost/performance is killer value for a 4 seater. Only 1,801 Z/28 made. C6 GS's were 28,004 between coupes and verts
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Last edited by j o n; 01-24-2019 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:44 AM   #5
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On your CF thread you said you wanted to get more into tracking a car, here your not pressing the track day usage. This is a big factor on what car is best for you. I have a Acura Integra that’s my dedicated track toy, gutted, roll bar, slicks etc and i trailer it. I will track the Z28 but will never be my dedicated track car. Between track ins and consumables I would go broke.

Coming from my c5zo6, the z/28 is flat out amazing. It’s better at everything by a lot! You could go To iron rotors or the gen 6 zl1 style brake setup and cut consumables down a lot for track use. 4 seats is more awesome then I expected. As a double duty street/track car the z28 is awesome because it needs very little preparation vs a c5/c6 corvette. That being said a c5/c6 will Always be cheaper to track, easier on brakes, tires, etc and can be just as fast laptime wise with a few good mods. it’s all in what you need from the car.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:40 PM   #6
jimb416
 
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How bad is the road ride cruising around? I know I’m not looking at a Cadillac but don’t want it to be near unbearable?
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:44 PM   #7
jimb416
 
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The brakes are that good? I have done a lot of reading and you tube watching and they rave about the brakes and suspension also. Carbon ceramics are quite pricy to replace pads/rotors?
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:32 PM   #8
1970judge

 
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Dont believe the hype. Ride quality is fine, its not a squishy buick roadmaster...but its fine. The occasional "eesh that was bumpy" otherwise, it rides like a proper car should, not muted. All the magazine/YT reviews about the ride quality are a joke, its a tightly sprung car for sure, but the way they talk about it you'd swear it was a lumber wagon. I dont want to undersell or oversell here, but IMO this is the way cars should be. The instant I drove a ZL11LE I knew I needed one, same as I did the Z/28. I dont like muted vehicles. The reviews all say the same thing about the ZLE. Just keep in mind your buying a track focused vehicle, not a kia, and you wont be disappointed.

The pads run around 450$ per axle. Rotors run about 1400$/rotor. Expensive yes, worth it, yes^2.
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:38 PM   #9
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There are quite a few of us who daily our cars. I have zero issues driving it 50+ miles round trip to work and back, in traffic. It's comfortable.. the seats take most of the umph out.

And yeah, the brakes are that good. I've swapped from the CCM to steel replacements as it's way cheaper and mine had 51k miles on them and 4 track days. I have yet to even come close to losing control, and it takes a lot to get the ABS to come on. I have even tried hydroplaning in this car and it won't do it.

Edit: The steels stop just as well if not better on the track. Just noisy as hell on the street. But, after the initial buy, it's 400 a wheel for replacements and roughly 600 total for brake pads all around.
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:31 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by jimb416 View Post
How bad is the road ride cruising around? I know I’m not looking at a Cadillac but don’t want it to be near unbearable?
Everything related to harsh riding and tram lining is mostly due to the trefeo tires. As soon as I put Michelin PS4s all the way around in the stock sizes, the car changed completely. It rides much better now than any other lowered pony car that I have put together for the street. It never feels like it bottoms out .

The only issue with street driving is that you have to go sideways up and down every driveway, so, you have to wait for the traffic to clear before you make you attempt. I whip the wheel around very fast to execute the maneuver quickly. If you practice, you can get very fast at it. One rear wheel is off the ground during this process, so, it is good to have enough momentum to complete it so you do not get the rear end making noise.
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:59 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Everything related to harsh riding and tram lining is mostly due to the trefeo tires. As soon as I put Michelin PS4s all the way around in the stock sizes, the car changed completely. It rides much better now than any other lowered pony car that I have put together for the street. It never feels like it bottoms out .

The only issue with street driving is that you have to go sideways up and down every driveway, so, you have to wait for the traffic to clear before you make you attempt. I whip the wheel around very fast to execute the maneuver quickly. If you practice, you can get very fast at it. One rear wheel is off the ground during this process, so, it is good to have enough momentum to complete it so you do not get the rear end making noise.
Agree with all of this
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:20 AM   #12
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so you do not get the rear end making noise.
You gotta love the Torsen differential!!!
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hjdca View Post

One rear wheel is off the ground during this process, so, it is good to have enough momentum to complete it so you do not get the rear end making noise.
Aside from avoiding noise, getting stuck in place while one wheel is off the ground can happen. Happened to me twice in my driveway. Car is in gear, engine is at idle speed and the wheel off the ground spun and spun while I sat motionless. Eventually that wheel made contact with the ground and was able to get moving again. Angles, momentum and commit. Never forget or get stuck lol.
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:46 PM   #14
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I went from an 09' ZR1 to a Z/28. Power wise, no comparison obviously, the ZR1 is a beast and destroys the Z/28 in a straight line, but handling wise I think they are very close with the Z/28 being surprisingly nimble for a much heavier car. Both cars have carbon ceramics so the braking is essentially the same. The X factor for me is the pure fun/driving experience, which the ZR1 can't match. There's just "something" about a normally aspirated 427 that can't be replicated. I much prefer the manual in the Z/28 compared to the ZR1....shorter throw. I LOVED my ZR1, but I wouldn't go back.
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