HKE LSX 427 with D1SC is in!!! but WTFO?

[Sack Rat 2SS]

Subscribed. Good Luck BullF-16 from a fellow AF Jock.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by Sack Rat 2SS

Subscribed. Good Luck BullF-16 from a fellow AF Jock.

Thanks Sack, are you at NFW?

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

My recommendation:

**
Tach signal *is already in your ECM just turn it on and stop calling idiots that feed you lines of shit about noise and there poorly designed products.

Settings for your cal via Hp tuners or efi live.


Tach Output = Crank
Resolution - High =14
Resolution - Low =15

This will make the ECM output the correct frequency for a 2 pulse per revolution tach. The Duty cycle of the frequency will be 48.3%. 14/29

Tach output is on Pin 48 of the black connector.
You need to add a resistor (about 1k ohm) between the tach output and 12V to Pull-Up the Output signal to a usable voltage for aftermarket tach,shift light,nitrous controller,trans controller,datalogger,boost controller and even that hunk of billet fuel pump protector you got mounted to your floorboard.


Also go put an ls2 throttle body on it and get rid of those pos
Ls3 throttle body's.Required item!

Now go make some power.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

My recommendation:

**
Tach signal *is already in your ECM just turn it on and stop calling idiots that feed you lines of shit about noise and there poorly designed products.

Settings for your cal via Hp tuners or efi live.


Tach Output = Crank
Resolution - High =14
Resolution - Low =15

This will make the ECM output the correct frequency for a 2 pulse per revolution tach. The Duty cycle of the frequency will be 48.3%. 14/29

Tach output is on Pin 48 of the black connector.
You need to add a resistor (about 1k ohm) between the tach output and 12V to Pull-Up the Output signal to a usable voltage for aftermarket tach,shift light,nitrous controller,trans controller,datalogger,boost controller and even that hunk of billet fuel pump protector you got mounted to your floorboard.


Also go put an ls2 throttle body on it and get rid of those pos
Ls3 throttle body's.Required item!

Now go make some power.

Thanks Andy! will forward it where it needs to go. Bless you sir! I just want to drive my damn car again

[G200 Pilot]

Originally Posted by BullF-16

Thanks Andy! will forward it where it needs to go. Bless you sir! I just want to drive my damn car again

Hey Bull, can you tell Andy knows his stuff? Figures... He comes from an aviation background!!

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by G200 Pilot

Hey Bull, can you tell Andy knows his stuff? Figures... He comes from an aviation background!!

Agreed!!!! About the best there is

[JLE58]

Are they not using a shielded cable for the tach signal?

[Jayrcr3]

Originally Posted by G200 Pilot

Hey Bull, can you tell Andy knows his stuff? Figures... He comes from an aviation background!!

Attention to detail! :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Boostpatrol]

Originally Posted by BullF-16

Alright. Need some brainstorming here. Spent the last 2 days with my car down at SNL Performance. The motor is in, the Aeromotive eliminator, billet controller, return style fuel system is in a wired correctly. (Aeromotive needs to get their shit together in this respect!!!) Pump runs at low voltage until 5000rpm then kicks into high gear thru the speed controller.

All this went fine. We did the initial drivability tune (Pat Guerra is the tuner) about the best there is...google him!!

This was done thurday PM. Friday morning we figured out that a relay was required for the 16 gauge power wire to the FPSC. Without the relay the pump would fire up at key on, but the rail pressure would drop from 58 to 0 as soon as the motor started to crank. Basically, voltage at the FPSC would fall below 10.5 which we determined was necessary to power the FPSC. A relay fixed this problem and all was good with all the Aeromotive....the pump is loud, sounds like an ass ton of Africanized killer bees are in the back seat. (the back seat was not installed however.)

So heres the deal. Dyno runs went well. Pat G tuned it without the meth pump on and was conservative. We had major belt slip on the D1 at about 5300 rpm where the best run peaked at 690RWHP and 684RWTQ. This all happened at 5300 rpm then the curves went flat to 7000. I watched the boost gauge int he a pillar peak around 11-12 psi and fall flat at this point as the rpm climbed to 7000. You could smell the rubber belt burning.

I was pretty happy with 684RWTQ at 5300 and knew i could always upgrade to a 12 rib later. Oh BTW the MAP sensor is the stock 1 bar.

Pat G wanted to go for a final streetability drive with my driving.

First time i got on it, major TQ kicks in in 3rd....feather the throttle to get back in control then back on it to about 5000rpm. Then "reduced engine power" kills power and P0606 code is present. "PCM internal fault" is what this is. Pat has never seen this. He clears it and i try again...same result but at a little diff rpm. He clears it and again, same thing when getting on throttle.

Pat disables the code and we try again, but same result but no code is reported since he disable it.

We spent hours on this, he reset the entire pcm, reflashed the tune, i pulled PCM circuit breakes, we check grounds and the PCM harness at the connectors and all look good. Take it out again and same thing. it would "reduce engine power about 2 out of every 3 times when giving it gas.


Anyone out here seen this type of thing?

Plan is to bypass the Aeromotive speed contorller and run the pump full speed to see if its a contorller issue.

If that does not work, i want to get a new PCM and reload Pats tune and start with a fresh computer.

I think maybe my OE pcm just went tango uniform (tits up) when we deleted the OE fuel control computer when we went return style????

Lots of smart guys with lots of experience were consulted and all just scratched their heads and went "Hmmmmmm"

Pat g needs to re write the hex file! If he's as good as everyone says, then he should know how to do this.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by Boostpatrol

Pat g needs to re write the hex file! If he's as good as everyone says, then he should know how to do this.

Im starting to wonder..... i sent him the post from ADM and his response was
'
"nice info"

if the new speed controller and resistor/capacitor from aeromotive and Autometer dont work i may press him further.

Or i may just suck it up and order the Squash Performance dual 400LPH walbro setup. What the hell's another grand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


This car is a giant 4000 lb piece of shit paperweight so far!

[Unreal]

Be prepared for more issues. Builds like these are rarely as smooth as you hope.

[realcanuk]

Originally Posted by Unreal

Be prepared for more issues. Builds like these are rarely as smooth as you hope.

I agree. I have been following these build threads as I have started a build of my own and the common theme is......smooth they are not.

Nick... I just read you whole build thread and you should definitely know!

[Unreal]

Yah, and still need to fix belt slip and an oil leak. I figure another 4-5 months before all the bugs are worked out. Mostly because it is snowing outside but big builds are rarely smooth.

[Boostpatrol]

Originally Posted by BullF-16

Im starting to wonder..... i sent him the post from ADM and his response was
'
"nice info"

if the new speed controller and resistor/capacitor from aeromotive and Autometer dont work i may press him further.

Or i may just suck it up and order the Squash Performance dual 400LPH walbro setup. What the hell's another grand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


This car is a giant 4000 lb piece of shit paperweight so far!

I had this issue happen to a brand new ECU. P0606 with any sort of abuse to the car and this was with a large cammed LS2. The ECU just needs to have the hex file re wrote, however, only a certain number of people that are invited to GM headquarters for tune brain storm sessions know how to do this