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Old 10-22-2019, 10:24 AM   #15
VR Baron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j o n View Post
Get coilovers. Dssv struts/shokcs are the issue not the springs.

He has kw coilovers
https://instagram.com/carbonz28?igshid=1dsijl3bhmrhb

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEj2A6jn...=15p95v98k2rhy
Carbonz28 is a good friend of mine. The kw’s really helped his ride. His wife doesn’t mind it at all. That and Hotchkiss swaybars make him #1 or 2 out here in nmca autocross
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Old 10-22-2019, 11:42 AM   #16
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So, the OP just wanted a Z/28 just for the name and rarity?
Now, you want to strip it of everything that makes it a bona fide track monster. It would've been much cheaper to buy an SS and stick some Z/28 badges on it.

Good luck!

P.S. You DD it in Illinois winters? My GS is a summer only car and wouldn't even make it out of the garage in PA winters if I tried. Be careful with that huge splitter. I'm sure it's a little sketchy in harsh winters and actually works better as a snow plow.
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**SOLD**2011 TRIPLE BLACK SS CONVERTIBLE--6 SPEED MANUAL, MANY MODS, 455 RWHP/435 RWTQ


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Old 10-23-2019, 06:25 AM   #17
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I do not drive it in winter. I do not want to hassle with coil overs. Just looking for Nice firm but livable ride for the street. Thanks, Mike.
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:20 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by MIKZ28 View Post
I do not drive it in winter. I do not want to hassle with coil overs. Just looking for Nice firm but livable ride for the street. Thanks, Mike.
Ok, I gotcha. I read "DD" in your original post.

Personally, I'd get an FE4 setup from an SS and install Hotchkis lowering springs. I had Hotchkis on my SS and they were stellar. They had a nice lowered stance of ~1 3/8" and a very nice ride. IMHO, it rode better than stock and of course, the car handled like it was on rails.

Again, good luck!
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MY RIDE: 2017 CORVETTE GRAND SPORT--TRIPLE BLACK, 7 SPEED MANUAL, VARARAM TCR-7 INTAKE, BORLA CATLESS X-PIPE, CARBON FIBER STAGE 2 AERO, MGW SHORT-THROW SHIFTER

**SOLD**2011 TRIPLE BLACK SS CONVERTIBLE--6 SPEED MANUAL, MANY MODS, 455 RWHP/435 RWTQ


DAD'S RIDE: 2012 ZL1 #1866--BLACK, 6 SPEED MANUAL, EXPOSED CF HOOD, POLISHED WHEELS, SUNROOF, ROTO-FAB INTAKE

"Silly Americans, taking from the rich and giving to the poor only works in fairy tales. Success is earned here!".
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:57 AM   #19
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Yes thank you so much for the advise. What would you do with the sway bars? Someone here said the Z bars are smaller because of the much stiffer set up.
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Old 10-23-2019, 09:31 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by MIKZ28 View Post
Yes thank you so much for the advise. What would you do with the sway bars? Someone here said the Z bars are smaller because of the much stiffer set up.
Hotchkis actually sells an entire kit that includes springs, sways and braces. I believe they call it their Track Pack. If you don't want to go that aggressive, they sell a Stage 1 kit that includes springs and sways. I'd get in contact with them and see what they have for you. Great company, great people.
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MY RIDE: 2017 CORVETTE GRAND SPORT--TRIPLE BLACK, 7 SPEED MANUAL, VARARAM TCR-7 INTAKE, BORLA CATLESS X-PIPE, CARBON FIBER STAGE 2 AERO, MGW SHORT-THROW SHIFTER

**SOLD**2011 TRIPLE BLACK SS CONVERTIBLE--6 SPEED MANUAL, MANY MODS, 455 RWHP/435 RWTQ


DAD'S RIDE: 2012 ZL1 #1866--BLACK, 6 SPEED MANUAL, EXPOSED CF HOOD, POLISHED WHEELS, SUNROOF, ROTO-FAB INTAKE

"Silly Americans, taking from the rich and giving to the poor only works in fairy tales. Success is earned here!".
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Old 10-23-2019, 10:27 AM   #21
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If it were me in your situation I'd get SS parts off a wrecked car and swap them. Put your parts in a box to go with the car as the next owner will want them. Or sell them as a set if you're short on money but it would lower the value of your car considerably if the OEM parts aren't there.
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Old 10-23-2019, 11:33 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by silversleeper View Post
If it were me in your situation I'd get SS parts off a wrecked car and swap them. Put your parts in a box to go with the car as the next owner will want them. Or sell them as a set if you're short on money but it would lower the value of your car considerably if the OEM parts aren't there.
I do plan to keep the original parts. There is a local track right near me I want to race at when I retire in about 4 years. Then I will put the car back to stock and use it for track only. Yes I was thinking about SS parts from the beginning but with used parts you never know what you are going to get quality wise. I have until spring to think about it. Thanks for all the great advise. Mike.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:40 PM   #23
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First of all, here's a recommendation from a different doctor. (BTW, what insurance do you have?)

I'm going to recommend going in a different direction. I changed the wheel and tire setup when the car was a few months old and have been very happy ever since. Daily street driving in my case improved tremendously. I changed wheel size to 20"x 10" and changed tire profile to 35. I went with a square setup of MPSS 285/35-20. This increased the tire diameter by 2" and effectively raised ride height by 1", while my speedometer is roughly off by 7%.

Benefits have been:
Less front scraping and ability to clear parking lot bump stops, minimal tramlining on roadway grooves, far more supple ride, square setup allows for tire rotation and prolonged tire life. Tires now have 18,000 miles and still have 50% treadlife remaining. No issues with tire rubbing.

This will allow retention of your stock suspension which I think is far preferable to modifying the car. You retain your stock 19" rims for later use.
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Old 10-25-2019, 07:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Chill View Post
First of all, here's a recommendation from a different doctor. (BTW, what insurance do you have?)

I'm going to recommend going in a different direction. I changed the wheel and tire setup when the car was a few months old and have been very happy ever since. Daily street driving in my case improved tremendously. I changed wheel size to 20"x 10" and changed tire profile to 35. I went with a square setup of MPSS 285/35-20. This increased the tire diameter by 2" and effectively raised ride height by 1", while my speedometer is roughly off by 7%.

Benefits have been:
Less front scraping and ability to clear parking lot bump stops, minimal tramlining on roadway grooves, far more supple ride, square setup allows for tire rotation and prolonged tire life. Tires now have 18,000 miles and still have 50% treadlife remaining. No issues with tire rubbing.

This will allow retention of your stock suspension which I think is far preferable to modifying the car. You retain your stock 19" rims for later use.
+1 for this general idea.
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:42 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Chill View Post
First of all, here's a recommendation from a different doctor. (BTW, what insurance do you have?)

I'm going to recommend going in a different direction. I changed the wheel and tire setup when the car was a few months old and have been very happy ever since. Daily street driving in my case improved tremendously. I changed wheel size to 20"x 10" and changed tire profile to 35. I went with a square setup of MPSS 285/35-20. This increased the tire diameter by 2" and effectively raised ride height by 1", while my speedometer is roughly off by 7%.

Benefits have been:
Less front scraping and ability to clear parking lot bump stops, minimal tramlining on roadway grooves, far more supple ride, square setup allows for tire rotation and prolonged tire life. Tires now have 18,000 miles and still have 50% treadlife remaining. No issues with tire rubbing.

This will allow retention of your stock suspension which I think is far preferable to modifying the car. You retain your stock 19" rims for later use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biergut View Post
+1 for this general idea.
Excellent idea!
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MY RIDE: 2017 CORVETTE GRAND SPORT--TRIPLE BLACK, 7 SPEED MANUAL, VARARAM TCR-7 INTAKE, BORLA CATLESS X-PIPE, CARBON FIBER STAGE 2 AERO, MGW SHORT-THROW SHIFTER

**SOLD**2011 TRIPLE BLACK SS CONVERTIBLE--6 SPEED MANUAL, MANY MODS, 455 RWHP/435 RWTQ


DAD'S RIDE: 2012 ZL1 #1866--BLACK, 6 SPEED MANUAL, EXPOSED CF HOOD, POLISHED WHEELS, SUNROOF, ROTO-FAB INTAKE

"Silly Americans, taking from the rich and giving to the poor only works in fairy tales. Success is earned here!".
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Old 10-25-2019, 11:20 AM   #26
VR Baron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Chill View Post
First of all, here's a recommendation from a different doctor. (BTW, what insurance do you have?)

I'm going to recommend going in a different direction. I changed the wheel and tire setup when the car was a few months old and have been very happy ever since. Daily street driving in my case improved tremendously. I changed wheel size to 20"x 10" and changed tire profile to 35. I went with a square setup of MPSS 285/35-20. This increased the tire diameter by 2" and effectively raised ride height by 1", while my speedometer is roughly off by 7%.

Benefits have been:
Less front scraping and ability to clear parking lot bump stops, minimal tramlining on roadway grooves, far more supple ride, square setup allows for tire rotation and prolonged tire life. Tires now have 18,000 miles and still have 50% treadlife remaining. No issues with tire rubbing.

This will allow retention of your stock suspension which I think is far preferable to modifying the car. You retain your stock 19" rims for later use.
This will help. I run basically the same for the street and go to 19” wheels and 305/30/19s for autocross. The ride is noticeably better with the 20” wheels and 35 series 1le size tires. I can adjust the ride with the Ridetech coilovers as needed, but, the 19” tires are still stiffer still. Going a new set of wheels is the more costly way to go, but maybe the best way.
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Old 10-26-2019, 04:27 PM   #27
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Forgestar F14 20x10.5 offset +10, 8mm spacer in front to clear brakes using thread extending lugnuts. 285/35-20 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires.







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Old 10-27-2019, 06:46 AM   #28
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Very interesting idea. Do you think the extra weight of the wheels and tires increasing the unsprung weight helps to soften the suspension? How much extra weight do you think we are talking about. I could replace the rotors with steel also to gain more unsprung weight and soften the suspension even more. I do love the visual of the carbon ceramic rotors however and I would prefer to keep them.
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