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Old 01-08-2018, 08:19 AM   #1
LCPLPunk
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Are 1LE rear shock mounts required for 1LE shock upgrade?

Hey all,

So I have seen different opinions on this, but I have some 1LE shocks/struts ready to go on, but do I NEED the rear 1LE shock mounts to install the 1LE shocks, or is it just the preferred method?

Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2018, 09:56 AM   #2
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If you have a 2010 I would say yes. If you have a 2012+ w/FE4, maybe not. I replaced them when I installed them on my 2013 and can't remember if the part nos were same. I would regardless as the bushings age.

Also check - you might need to install the 2012+ FE4 lower control arms for those shocks. The mount points could be different.
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Old 01-08-2018, 10:46 AM   #3
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i don't think it is 'required' but it is definitely recommended. the ZL1/1LE rear shock mounts are an upgrade over the FE3 or FE4 pieces.
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Old 01-08-2018, 04:52 PM   #4
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There's not much difference when I had both in my hand at the same time and did measurements. Same durometer but slightly more surface area contacting the washer.
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Old 01-08-2018, 07:31 PM   #5
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Synner, thanks man! Looks like I can save the money then and put it towards a ZL1 rear sway!
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Old 01-09-2018, 07:27 PM   #6
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The better choice would be the Z/28 mounts IMO
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:37 PM   #7
LCPLPunk
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Oh boy, didn't know that was even an option! Do you know the part number and cost? What makes them better?
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Old 01-09-2018, 09:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LCPLPunk View Post
Oh boy, didn't know that was even an option! Do you know the part number and cost? What makes them better?
The hour glass shaped rubber bushing is harder, denser.

22836727 / 22836734
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Old 05-05-2021, 09:45 PM   #9
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Bumping an old thread.

I recently installed Z28 rear mounts on my 2010 SS with 1LE shocks/struts on Hotchki 1 inch drop springs.

There seems to be more rake and the wheel gap in rear seems higher?

Is this due to the Z28 mounts thickness or the 1LE struts?
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Old 05-06-2021, 05:46 AM   #10
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How much higher was the rear than the front before the install compared to after? Rear sits a bit higher than front from factory. Were all of the bushings "timed" properly during install? Torqueing the suspension arm bolts when the arms are not in their resting position (car on the ground) will create extra tension in the bushings when the car is on the ground, causing the chassis to sit higher than it should.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:34 PM   #11
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They were done by a professional. Sure he did that.

I think the Z28 hats have a thicker bushing which probably accounts for the difference. I was hoping to see if that is fact and any remedies
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